Faint

I'm looking to upgrade so i can enjoy my car. I will be racing (Racing at TSA States if anyone knows about that. www.tsaweb.org)

First off is my motor. According the rules for the competition say "Drive Motors are to be stock ROAR 91 legal or newer...Motors that show signs of tampering will be d/q'ed." I have a stock Stinger 20 Turn in my car now. From what I've researched the lower the turn the better correct? I'm wondering what motor i can get that is better then what i got that will still fit those rules.

Onto the battery. Rules state "Only Sub-C size NiCad batteries will be approved for propulsion. The cells must be rated 1.2v 2000mah maximum. The battery pack is limited to six cells, 7.2 volts." Anyone able to link me to a good battery that fits the rules?

Lastly my charger. I heard that my charger isn't so good. I heard the Duratex ICE Charger is good. The only problem is that i don't have too much money atm to spend. Also should I use a discharger? I usually just hold down the trigger untill the wheel barely even spins. I really prefer it to somehow have a AC option for charging.

Thanks for all the help.

EDIT : I just took my car out on my battery and got about 5 minutes runtime....I guess because it is 2 wheel drive now...Help?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Stock motors are limited to 27 turns and cannot be brushless - go to any online retailer and search for "stock motor" or ask your local hobby shop what works well at your local track and they'll point you in the right direction. Your 20-turn motor will not be legal for stock class.

Any non-lipo 6-cell battery you buy will be legal - check the banner ads here for many companies selling batteries.

What kind of charger do you have right now?

Faint

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLXT7&P=ML
How is that motor? From what i can tell and checked it fits the rules. Is lower turn better however? I know it is illegal w/ the rule set but still want to know.

I currently have a Piranha CX-10 AC/DC Fast Charger. My battery had a whopping 5 minute runtime (if that) yesterday. My current battery is a 1500mah shark.
I really don't know what battery to get...Are the 4200 packs overkill or just right?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

That is a good stock motor.

In general, lower turns will be faster but will give you less runtime and require more maintence.

Your low runtime right now is related to your battery pack being so low capacity - 5 minutes from a 1500 is acutally not bad for what it is.

Since you're new, I'd recommend saving money on batteries by buying some of the 3300's being sold real cheap right now like this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...32#post2246032 and spending the rest on a better charger and practice time at your local track.

The Duratrax ICE charger ain't bad but you can get a better setup and save some money by buying used, such as: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107433 or if that one is not to your liking, just browse the classifieds here - you can get some good deals on "race-grade" stuff that way.

Faint

A few more questions and i should be well informed about any of my questions.
1. How much runtime do you think I'll get w/ a 3800?
2. I see battery info w/ "418 run time" what does that mean exactly?
3. How do you assemble the batteries? - Thanks Bud for fast response

Thanks - You have been a HUGE help to me thus far.

Bud

3. http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl...ld_battery.asp

Faint

Seems like it would be easy to screw up. Isn't it worth it to just buy the sticks?
in the end is it suppose to look like a stick or what?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

1) Longer than you should run before you'll overheat your motor - maybe 10+ minutes.
2) That means the battery will run for 418 seconds (@7minutes) at a constant 30amp discharge rate.
3) Bud's link was very good for that - it's a lot easier than it seems at first. You could also buy pre-assembled pack but "race-grade" packs are harder to find pre-assembled - most racers like to build their own. If you want pre-assembled, I'd recommend ProMatch for that.

Faint

Alright thanks - I ordered the charger and am going to be paying for it in a few minutes.
About my motor order it says:
REQUIRES: Motor leads and connector of modeler's choosing
So I need:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJ21&P=ML
But what about the connector?

Thanks again

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

If you're going to use a connector, what kind you will need will depend on what is on your ESC. A better way to go is to just cut the connector off your ESC and solder the motor leads from that right to the motor - it is much more effecient and you won't have to buy anything else again except maybe some wire, which is cheap, to extend your ESC's motor leads.

Faint

So I should just get the motor and leads for now?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

If you wire your ESC straight to the motor ("hardwiring"), you won't even need the leads but you can get them anyway as insurance if you want to.

Faint

Attached is a picture of the ESC and motor. Should i even bother w/ the Leads?

HUGE:
http://theimagemonkey.com/public/pview/375/DSCN0443.JPG

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

It looks like you might have enough wire coming off the ESC to hardwire as I mentioned before w/o any additional wire/leads needed - I would go that route.