LIPOS, Brushless Motors - Getting Started Thread
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 6
Hi all!
Hoping that this thread can become the 101 for getting started with LIPO batteries, brushless motors and gearing. I've been out of the loop on RC tech now for a few years and all of this stuff seems to be kind of confusing! Hoping here we can post some use full tips on getting going with these items. Thanks in advance for any useful guidance you can provide!
For me personally, some of my questions/challenges include:
My setup is:
Vehiclel
Team LOSI 22 2.0 Buggy Electric
Motor/Speed Control
Castle Creations 1/10 SV3 Sidewinder 3 WaterProof 5700kV Motor ESC
Battery:
Floureon 7.4V 40C 6200mAh (4 cell? - looks like it has 4 pads inside) battery
Gearing:
Pinion 25
Spur 78
Charger:
Hitec x4 a-plus
Hoping that this thread can become the 101 for getting started with LIPO batteries, brushless motors and gearing. I've been out of the loop on RC tech now for a few years and all of this stuff seems to be kind of confusing! Hoping here we can post some use full tips on getting going with these items. Thanks in advance for any useful guidance you can provide!
For me personally, some of my questions/challenges include:
- Right gearing setup
- Right charging time for my LIPOS
- Right setup for charging my batteries?
- Not allowing LIPOS to drop below X voltage?
- What is the KV rating on a brushless motor all about?
- Issues with overheating - (ESC goes into thermal protection after about 15 minutes of hard driving)
- Go with a 7.4 battery or a 11.1 battery?
- How to determine your gear ratio?
My setup is:
Vehiclel
Team LOSI 22 2.0 Buggy Electric
Motor/Speed Control
Castle Creations 1/10 SV3 Sidewinder 3 WaterProof 5700kV Motor ESC
Battery:
Floureon 7.4V 40C 6200mAh (4 cell? - looks like it has 4 pads inside) battery
Gearing:
Pinion 25
Spur 78
Charger:
Hitec x4 a-plus
Last edited by cg5000; 05-02-2017 at 08:18 AM.
#2
7.4v is 2s not 4. Battery might be wired 2 series and 2 parallel for higher capacity.
The 5700 castle setup is a basher setup it might be fine if you are racing a non restricted class like novice. You will notice some low speed cogging when starting because of the sensorless setup of the system. Your castle esc should have auto voltage cutoff to stop you once lower voltage cut (LVC) is reached.
Make sure to use 7.4 or 2s charge voltage and lipo mode when charging that lipo.
Gearing seems to be a good starting point with the 5700 kv motor.
Also checkout the rookie zone for beginning questions. Might help.
The 5700 castle setup is a basher setup it might be fine if you are racing a non restricted class like novice. You will notice some low speed cogging when starting because of the sensorless setup of the system. Your castle esc should have auto voltage cutoff to stop you once lower voltage cut (LVC) is reached.
Make sure to use 7.4 or 2s charge voltage and lipo mode when charging that lipo.
Gearing seems to be a good starting point with the 5700 kv motor.
Also checkout the rookie zone for beginning questions. Might help.
#3
What rig you driving? I could see that over heating in a large vehicle such as a short course truck. Gearing varies alot by manufacturer and vehicle type, but if your overheating its always a good idea to try smaller spur/pinion. Also remember a lot of folks only gear for a 6-10min period because most races are over by then and a $15 temp gun online can be very helpful
When it comes to charging, you charge to a specific voltage per cell, not for a specific time. For a full charge you charge to 4.2v per cell (i.e. a "7.4v" Battery fully charged is 8.4v). When not using them, use the storage setting to get them to about 3.8v per cell. And never use an esc without a low voltage cut off (your esc does) or let the batteries sit discharged for long periods. What you do have to set on your hitec for charging is the type (7.4v, 11.1v, etc) method (always recommend balancing charging for longer life) and Amps.
For amps, 1C is a good all around charging rate and "C" is based on how many amp hours the batt has. For instance, yours is 6.2 amp hours (6200 mili amp hours "MAH" = 6.2 amp hours) so you would charge at 6.2amps and wait for the charger to ding or whatever when its done. Also dont let the batteries sit fully charged for too long, use them or put them back to storage voltage.
When it comes to charging, you charge to a specific voltage per cell, not for a specific time. For a full charge you charge to 4.2v per cell (i.e. a "7.4v" Battery fully charged is 8.4v). When not using them, use the storage setting to get them to about 3.8v per cell. And never use an esc without a low voltage cut off (your esc does) or let the batteries sit discharged for long periods. What you do have to set on your hitec for charging is the type (7.4v, 11.1v, etc) method (always recommend balancing charging for longer life) and Amps.
For amps, 1C is a good all around charging rate and "C" is based on how many amp hours the batt has. For instance, yours is 6.2 amp hours (6200 mili amp hours "MAH" = 6.2 amp hours) so you would charge at 6.2amps and wait for the charger to ding or whatever when its done. Also dont let the batteries sit fully charged for too long, use them or put them back to storage voltage.
#6
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 371
From: Framingham, MA
The Mamba 5700 is a very high rpm motor and you are way over geared. I would try a 21T or 22T pinion to start or whatever TLR recommends in the manual for a 6.5 turn sensored motor. It's really too much motor for a 2wd as you will see once you gear it correctly. Stock class sensored motors are basically 2400 KV motors that we time the hell out of to bring them up to 2900 KV. A mild Mod motor is between 3200~4000 KV.
Unfortunately the Sidewinder won't run a sensored motor without cogging. There are tons of cheap sensorless 3000~4000 KV motors around, but there are only two that will blend in with a 17.5 class. They are the Tacon 3650 size 2350KV and the Kyosho 2400 RTR motor. The Tacon can be geared exactly the same as a Trinity or Reedy 17.5 and it will feel exactly like a 17.5.
If you plan to race anywhere that checks motors in tech, you have to buy a buy a Hobbywing Juststock esc and a legal 17,5 motor.
Most people charge in the 10~12A range in Lipo mode only. A 6A charger is fine, it just takes a few minutes longer. set esc low cutoff to 3.2V and the timing to low or medium with the Castle link.
Gearing is always set with a temp gun like the $15 harbor freight one. Shoot for 130 degrees@ 5 min. with 2wd buggy.
Unfortunately the Sidewinder won't run a sensored motor without cogging. There are tons of cheap sensorless 3000~4000 KV motors around, but there are only two that will blend in with a 17.5 class. They are the Tacon 3650 size 2350KV and the Kyosho 2400 RTR motor. The Tacon can be geared exactly the same as a Trinity or Reedy 17.5 and it will feel exactly like a 17.5.
If you plan to race anywhere that checks motors in tech, you have to buy a buy a Hobbywing Juststock esc and a legal 17,5 motor.
Most people charge in the 10~12A range in Lipo mode only. A 6A charger is fine, it just takes a few minutes longer. set esc low cutoff to 3.2V and the timing to low or medium with the Castle link.
Gearing is always set with a temp gun like the $15 harbor freight one. Shoot for 130 degrees@ 5 min. with 2wd buggy.




