Hello All,
I have been flying e-powered RC planes for 20+ years now and picking out the right motor/ESC is all based on the Amps/watts you need to get the performance you are looking for.

With that said I am curious what RC cars actually draw at full throttle. I am sure a on the same motor a 4WD Monster truck will draw more that a 1:12 pan car but curious what kind of number cars draw.

I am currently putting together a TT02 with a 17.5 turn Blinky set up and also have a old RC10 that has a 3200kv motor in it, both are being run on 2S but also curious what a really "hot" motor draws as well.

Cheers,
Jim

Jim while I don't know how accurate it is, hobbywing has a chart listed in the owners manual for the gen 2 v10 motors and they claim their 3.5 turn motor draw 120 amps with an output of 600 watts.

my 3.5 turn eats more than 220 Amps... However it all depends how / what you drive as it is proportional to load.

That is a lot of watts per gram of motor weight. I fly a lot of powered glider and in LMR (limited motor run) applications I will go 5-6 watts per gram. With that said the motor is run WOT for 30 straight seconds.

I feel sorry for a 2S pack pulling 220 amps.....

Cheers,
Jim

220 from a 2s isn't that huge of a draw from a 4400 mah pack. That could be handled by a 50c battery, if all of the numbers on packs are even remotely correct then a good pack should be able to handle 400 plus amp draw.

Now how factual that is I don't know, I race off-road cars and traction is always the limiting factor, not power. I usually ending backing my punch down instead of adding boost and timing because keeping it hooked up wins much more often than being the fastest guy at the end of the straight.

You will pull the most power coming from a dead stop, as you reach full throttle, the power draw will taper away.

For 17.5T Blinky in a 1/10 TC, any 35A ESC (or higher) will do fine, best one for the money is this one here:
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...ant=4976390148

get a watt meter to see how many amps. but yes most amps will be at dead start..not at top end.. once weight is moving takes less amps to keep speed up..traction is a major issue..id never use a 35 amp esc in blinky unless you like being in last..i run a 120 amp in blinky mode in my 17.5 and 21.5 class..called stock.

The ESC I linked is actually a 45A and the specs are well over rated for 17.5 on 2S, I also use the same 45A ESC on my 13.5 Wheeler which has also proven to be very competitive in my super stock car with a recent 1st place finish over a 6 event points series this past winter:
2016 Winter Series Results

Anything over 35A is unnecessary for 17.5 on 2S, the motor can only draw so much current, an over rated ESC won't make it go any faster, and if you get a heavier ESC with thicker 12AWG wiring then the extra weight will actually slow you down

I like to use lighter 14AWG wire in my stock cars to keep weight down and reduce the center of gravity, etc... every gram counts!