SMC RF-170
 

I picked on up the other day to have and use as my back up/ practice system and wondering if anyone has tried one. Out of package it looks like any other HW or reedy system and just from bench it all works as should.
My only issue is the drag brake don't seem to work in forward but it does in reverse :confused: Not a huge issue since I don't use drag but seems odd..

Anyone tested and used?

I'll do more testing and once weather clears up I'll giver her hell to see if it's worth the money.

Do you have the programmer? I use the rf 170 it's a great speed control for the price

I do have it and also have installed the computer program so I can fine tune on laptop. Ive done some in house testing and I can't seem to get the drag brake to work other then in reverse. :eek:
Also notice the brake settings are weak. Needs to be in the 90+ to work, worse then the tekin settings.

I have a RF-170 in my 4wd buggy and it's working well. I haven't played with all the settings yet - but want to fiddle with things like drive frequency to see how it makes the car feel.

Brake strength has been fine for me, but I drive on a bit of a slippery surface, so I have it turned down at the transmitter. I haven't been able to get Drag Brake to do anything either: I thought it was just me :)

It's almost like it's reversed as drag works in reverse but not forward. If you switch it works but then your running forward as reverse making it faster then forward if you understand what I'm saying..lol
I don't use drag normally so it's not a problem but I think it's worth mentioning.

Question on ABC tab orientation. Just installed a rf-170, with online instructions (none came in box), wire "A" is blue and on far right of esc if facing tab row of esc. On my esc, blue is on far left of esc. Power button on my esc is also in a different position than instruction manual diagram, so which is "ABC" on my esc?

The blue wire that is on the left when solder post are facing you is A.
Orange is C. it's printed on the case correctly.

If you get it wrong it will cog right away when using a sensor cable. Sensorless would run backwards.

Anybody else been using one of these for awhile? Mine has been cutting back to 1/2-throttle about 5min into some outdoor races (not LVC: 2 different lipos come off between 25%-35% full) so it may be heat - but my other ESCs run fine in the same conditions + motor. Fan is mounted.

Also, many times when I first plug in the battery the ESC immediately starts beeping like it's going into programming mode (but I'm not touching the power switch). If I unplug the battery for 5 seconds and try again it goes away. Just strange.

I love this ESC, stays cool and is very smooth, but I do agree with you that the braking strength is weak. Turn it up to 100% and see if you can add more braking on your radio.

•Take off heat protection to see if that is the cause.

•I normally only run my Lipos down to around 60%, so check the amp current your motor is pulling. This is adjusted by endbell timing. If your endbell timing is too high, it will cause more motor heat which will cause fade over a run and also pull more amps draining the battery quicker. Both factors will result in less power. I would try turning down the timing and putting a fan on the motor. My money is on the motor and NOT the esc.

I broke the fan off of my rf-170 today. Can anyone tell me the size of this fan? Or send me a link to a replacement at Amain? SMC wants $12 shipping for a $5 fan. Thanks.

Fans are either 25 or 30mm square - dimensions to the outside. I would measure and verify but here are some 30mm selections as I am pretty sure its a 30mm on that esc (1-3/16" roughly).

This one has the right connector already on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Gdstime-30x30...m+fan+5v&psc=1


Amain fans mostly have servo jst style connectors for running motor fans. You can always switch out connectors but can a be a pain.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0093/p538051

Thank you. I was able to find a WTF fan with a hobbywing plug. I also found a carbon fiber cage to go over top of it. Should be the end of this problem.

Was a conclusion ever reached on this issue? I've noted the same behaviour on my RF-170.

did you guys get these problems worked out or give up on the esc's?