Best Guess? Why does it keep cutting out?
11-04-2016, 07:27 PM
#1
Best Guess? Why does it keep cutting out?
I have an RC8.2e. With a Hobbywing 150a ESC. I'm running 4s on it.
When I run it, the vehicle slows down, and then gradually stops completely and then after about 2 seconds, it'll kick back to full power again, and I'll see the green light on the ESC. When it's stopped, it doesn't matter whether I have my finger still on trigger or not. It always comes back to life and I get full power again.
I don't have my thermogun handy or a different set of batteries so I'm going to ask you guys for a "Best Guess" type of response...
I don't believe it's the low voltage cut off coming on. The batteries seem sound. This buggy does this even after a full charge, volt meter shows over 15 v. I have looked for a blinking red light from the ESC, but fact is, when the vehicle stalls for a few seconds, the red or green LEDs are not lit.
There's no binding in the drive train and when I put my finger on the motor, the esc and batteries, none of these feel hot. So I don't think some other protection feature is kicking on....
Any suggestions? I am going to try to reprogram the ESC and see if that helps, but I'm not sure what the problem would be....
Thanks, guys. I'm hoping someone has seen this exact same set of problems before and knows what it is.
When I run it, the vehicle slows down, and then gradually stops completely and then after about 2 seconds, it'll kick back to full power again, and I'll see the green light on the ESC. When it's stopped, it doesn't matter whether I have my finger still on trigger or not. It always comes back to life and I get full power again.
I don't have my thermogun handy or a different set of batteries so I'm going to ask you guys for a "Best Guess" type of response...
I don't believe it's the low voltage cut off coming on. The batteries seem sound. This buggy does this even after a full charge, volt meter shows over 15 v. I have looked for a blinking red light from the ESC, but fact is, when the vehicle stalls for a few seconds, the red or green LEDs are not lit.
There's no binding in the drive train and when I put my finger on the motor, the esc and batteries, none of these feel hot. So I don't think some other protection feature is kicking on....
Any suggestions? I am going to try to reprogram the ESC and see if that helps, but I'm not sure what the problem would be....
Thanks, guys. I'm hoping someone has seen this exact same set of problems before and knows what it is.
11-04-2016, 09:31 PM
#2
Tech Addict
When voodoo happens more then likely it's bad electronics. .... maybe a bad solder joint. Battery connection ..motor. maybe try to re do the connections or try a different Battery and see if it still happens. The connection to receiver?
Low voltage cut off? Set weird on the esc?
Maybe gear/ mesh too tight .but that would make hot motor
The fun part of rc's is fixing them🤔
Low voltage cut off? Set weird on the esc?
Maybe gear/ mesh too tight .but that would make hot motor
The fun part of rc's is fixing them🤔
11-04-2016, 09:35 PM
#3
Well since it's just a guess I would turn off all safeties if possible and try it again.
Just because you have a safety doesn't mean it might not be working right.
I would also run it slow to build up the heat slowly and see if it does it again. It could be that the ESC is internally very hot but the heat sink has yet to have the time to dissipate the heat?
If that doesn't work then I would think it has to be BFM. Black F'in Magic. If new time to get some warranty help
Just because you have a safety doesn't mean it might not be working right.
I would also run it slow to build up the heat slowly and see if it does it again. It could be that the ESC is internally very hot but the heat sink has yet to have the time to dissipate the heat?
If that doesn't work then I would think it has to be BFM. Black F'in Magic. If new time to get some warranty help
11-05-2016, 12:12 AM
#4
Tech Addict
Low transmitter batteries?
Too much pull on the 4s battery? How many C is it?
Low instantanious voltage dip?
I have a hobby wing 120A v3.1 ESC. And a 5000mah 2s pack.
I run it all out sometimes, full turbo, and once in a while I will get no throttle for a second and then it comes back. This usually means that my voltage momentarily dipped below the threshold set for auto battery cutoff. I can run the car for a couple minutes or a couple of seconds before it just cuts the throttle completely and I am left with only steering.
For me, when it happens. I know my battery is near auto cut off voltage. I usually drive it back to the garage and throw the battery on the charger.
May I ask, how many minutes you get before this happens? And also, how long do you charge your batteries for at what amperage?
Too much pull on the 4s battery? How many C is it?
Low instantanious voltage dip?
I have a hobby wing 120A v3.1 ESC. And a 5000mah 2s pack.
I run it all out sometimes, full turbo, and once in a while I will get no throttle for a second and then it comes back. This usually means that my voltage momentarily dipped below the threshold set for auto battery cutoff. I can run the car for a couple minutes or a couple of seconds before it just cuts the throttle completely and I am left with only steering.
For me, when it happens. I know my battery is near auto cut off voltage. I usually drive it back to the garage and throw the battery on the charger.
May I ask, how many minutes you get before this happens? And also, how long do you charge your batteries for at what amperage?
11-05-2016, 07:30 PM
#5
I'm going to say it's your battery. Checking the voltage without a load doesn't tell you much. Could be something as simple as a bad cell in the battery.
You should try measuring the battery voltage and the individual cell voltages if you can, while you put a load on the battery. Could be as simple as several automotive lights.
If you drive your buggy slow for several minutes does it happen? If not, that would be another indication of a bad battery.
The only other thing I could think of is a faulty receiver. Had a receiver that would loose signal and would cause the car to be unresponsive for a couple of seconds, then would come back to normal. Rebinding the receiver to the radio fixed that.
I was able to confirm it was a lost signal by keeping an eye on the LED on the receiver. When it lost signal it would flash.
You should try measuring the battery voltage and the individual cell voltages if you can, while you put a load on the battery. Could be as simple as several automotive lights.
If you drive your buggy slow for several minutes does it happen? If not, that would be another indication of a bad battery.
The only other thing I could think of is a faulty receiver. Had a receiver that would loose signal and would cause the car to be unresponsive for a couple of seconds, then would come back to normal. Rebinding the receiver to the radio fixed that.
I was able to confirm it was a lost signal by keeping an eye on the LED on the receiver. When it lost signal it would flash.
11-06-2016, 03:20 PM
#6
Tech Addict
Thermal shutdown?
I ran my car today balls out in an open parking lot. Turbo was engaged 30-40% at 24Degrees, and 15degree of base timing. I found my car after running 15-20 minutes or so, went into thermal cut off. The motor and esc were pretty hot. The cars power was consistent up until that time. But then afterwards was cutting out for a second or so, then came back on, then cut out, then came back on, I am guessing because the motor at the ESC were heating up and cooling off between pinning the trigger.
Since you're running 4s, this would probably happen a lot quicker. I am going to have to find a way to passively cool my motor and ESC better.
I ran my car today balls out in an open parking lot. Turbo was engaged 30-40% at 24Degrees, and 15degree of base timing. I found my car after running 15-20 minutes or so, went into thermal cut off. The motor and esc were pretty hot. The cars power was consistent up until that time. But then afterwards was cutting out for a second or so, then came back on, then cut out, then came back on, I am guessing because the motor at the ESC were heating up and cooling off between pinning the trigger.
Since you're running 4s, this would probably happen a lot quicker. I am going to have to find a way to passively cool my motor and ESC better.
11-06-2016, 08:32 PM
#7
Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate them.
Well, I reprogrammed the ESC so that it has no low-voltage cut off, whereas before I probably had it set it at 3.4 v per.
Under this setting, I wasn't able to get the buggy to act like it did. So it could be bad batteries after all. Then again, I only ran it in my backyard, but I was trying to go full speed at every chance -- billowing through all that Autumn foliage like a dolphin underneath water.
But the jury is still out.
When the car would start acting up, it would do so even when I was 50% or lower throttle or speed.. it was just start slowing down and down, and then stop for a full 2 or 3 seconds and then -- back to full blast if I wanted it.
Anyway, I think it's the battery. I couldn't find my battery connectors with the balance plug, which is why I was asking you guys to give me suggestion. But I found the balance plug a while ago but I just wanted to drop in again.
What I'm wondering is: If it is the LVC, then why isn't the red led flashing? I have a Hobbywing. According to the manual, it woudl flash red when it goes into LVC mode...
Well, I reprogrammed the ESC so that it has no low-voltage cut off, whereas before I probably had it set it at 3.4 v per.
Under this setting, I wasn't able to get the buggy to act like it did. So it could be bad batteries after all. Then again, I only ran it in my backyard, but I was trying to go full speed at every chance -- billowing through all that Autumn foliage like a dolphin underneath water.
But the jury is still out.When the car would start acting up, it would do so even when I was 50% or lower throttle or speed.. it was just start slowing down and down, and then stop for a full 2 or 3 seconds and then -- back to full blast if I wanted it.
Anyway, I think it's the battery. I couldn't find my battery connectors with the balance plug, which is why I was asking you guys to give me suggestion. But I found the balance plug a while ago but I just wanted to drop in again.
What I'm wondering is: If it is the LVC, then why isn't the red led flashing? I have a Hobbywing. According to the manual, it woudl flash red when it goes into LVC mode...
11-06-2016, 08:39 PM
#8
Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate them.
Well, I reprogrammed the ESC so that it has no low-voltage cut off, whereas before I probably had it set it at 3.4 v per.
Under this setting, I wasn't able to get the buggy to act like it did. So it could be bad batteries after all. Then again, I only ran it in my backyard, but I was trying to go full speed at every chance -- billowing through all that Autumn foliage like a dolphin underneath water. But the jury is still out.
When the car would start acting up, it would do so even when I was 50% or lower throttle or speed.. it was just start slowing down and down, and then stop for a full 2 or 3 seconds and then -- back to full blast if I wanted it.
Anyway, I think it's the battery. I couldn't find my battery connectors with the balance plug, which is why I was asking you guys to give me suggestion. But I found the balance plug a while ago but I just wanted to drop in again.
What I'm wondering is: If it is the LVC, then why isn't the red led flashing? I have a Hobbywing. According to the manual, it woudl flash red when it goes into LVC mode...
Well, I reprogrammed the ESC so that it has no low-voltage cut off, whereas before I probably had it set it at 3.4 v per.
Under this setting, I wasn't able to get the buggy to act like it did. So it could be bad batteries after all. Then again, I only ran it in my backyard, but I was trying to go full speed at every chance -- billowing through all that Autumn foliage like a dolphin underneath water.
But the jury is still out.When the car would start acting up, it would do so even when I was 50% or lower throttle or speed.. it was just start slowing down and down, and then stop for a full 2 or 3 seconds and then -- back to full blast if I wanted it.
Anyway, I think it's the battery. I couldn't find my battery connectors with the balance plug, which is why I was asking you guys to give me suggestion. But I found the balance plug a while ago but I just wanted to drop in again.
What I'm wondering is: If it is the LVC, then why isn't the red led flashing? I have a Hobbywing. According to the manual, it woudl flash red when it goes into LVC mode...
11-06-2016, 10:58 PM
#9
^ I'll try that. I balance checked the cells. I have two 2s batteries hooked up, and one pack was 3.85 and 3.85 and the other pack was at 3.81 and 3.82, nothing to be concermed about. But I got them even.
I agree resting voltage isn't telling as when the batteries are under load, but we'll see what happens when I test my RC in a larger area later. I'll test with and without the LVC protection on.
I agree resting voltage isn't telling as when the batteries are under load, but we'll see what happens when I test my RC in a larger area later. I'll test with and without the LVC protection on.
11-06-2016, 11:35 PM
#10
You charge them to 4.2v/cell, right?
11-07-2016, 12:06 AM
#11
11-07-2016, 07:07 AM
#12
Tech Addict
Double check that your sensor cable is properly installed too. If you have turbo set on the ESC, the easiest way to see if the cable is connected is that you get turbo. If the cable is not installed correctly, you might get a chunky throttle response. And a loose cable would mean it cuts in and out at low speeds.
Hope you find your issue. Hobby wing for me has been a great ESC.
Your dolphin comment had me smiling haha.
Hope you find your issue. Hobby wing for me has been a great ESC.
Your dolphin comment had me smiling haha.
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