Help! 3S Problems!
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 23
From: Indiana
I am currently running the team associated Pro rally. The car is 2s and 3s capable out of the box. I put a 3s SPC racing lipo in yesterday. For whatever reason, it's making the car go crazy and go Haywire. It will erratically drive on its own, wont turn sometimes, Etc. Today It reversed across my yard turned around and went forward full speed into my car. I did determine that when I turn off the transmitter , it stops it. I pulled it out and put it in the normal 2s and didn't have any problems, so it is something to do with the battery. I changed the transmitter batteries, rebinding the transmitter to the receiver, and recalibrated the ESC. Nothing has worked so far. Any suggestions? I am going to lose it!
Not sure it makes a difference, but I am running a new Savox 1258.
Not sure it makes a difference, but I am running a new Savox 1258.
#3
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 23
From: Indiana
#5
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 23
From: Indiana
Yep. Well, I found some more out.
I put a new servo in the other day. So far, i jave broken two cva joints, almost right away. Apparently I need to trim it down. With the 3s only, when I go all the way to the right or left, I get a red light on the receiver and the wheels lock. Then, they go back straight on their own. If I hit the gas during the red light, it goes crazy. getting closer to an answer I guess.
I put a new servo in the other day. So far, i jave broken two cva joints, almost right away. Apparently I need to trim it down. With the 3s only, when I go all the way to the right or left, I get a red light on the receiver and the wheels lock. Then, they go back straight on their own. If I hit the gas during the red light, it goes crazy. getting closer to an answer I guess.
#6
Oh!! You probably didn't center the servo. Remove horns from servo, Turn on TX & RX set trims at 12 o'clock, Reinstall horn at 90deg angle. You should be ok there.
Broke cv joint probably it cant take the 3s. Or upgrade for the better.
Broke cv joint probably it cant take the 3s. Or upgrade for the better.
#7
I don't know what kind of BEC that ESC has so what I'm about to say may be relevant or not.
There are (at least) two kinds of BECs in RC car ESCs: Linear and switching.
Switching BECs rarely oveheat so long as they are used within specs (reasonable current draw by the servos)
ESCs that have Linear BECs and are rated for 2S and 3S can overheat when run on 3S. The Novak Havoc 3S was an excellent example of this.
If your ESC has a linear BEC, it is quite possible the BEC is overheating when you run it on 3S and causing undesirable voltage fluctuations to reach the receiver, which is in turn causing erratic behavior by the receiver. If that is the case, the solution will be an external, switching BEC, of which there are many (Castle sells at least one).
But, like I said, if your ESC has a switching BEC, the above comment is irrelevant. Consult the manufacturer's specs or call the Mfr and ask what kind of BEC the ESC has.
There are (at least) two kinds of BECs in RC car ESCs: Linear and switching.
Switching BECs rarely oveheat so long as they are used within specs (reasonable current draw by the servos)
ESCs that have Linear BECs and are rated for 2S and 3S can overheat when run on 3S. The Novak Havoc 3S was an excellent example of this.
If your ESC has a linear BEC, it is quite possible the BEC is overheating when you run it on 3S and causing undesirable voltage fluctuations to reach the receiver, which is in turn causing erratic behavior by the receiver. If that is the case, the solution will be an external, switching BEC, of which there are many (Castle sells at least one).
But, like I said, if your ESC has a switching BEC, the above comment is irrelevant. Consult the manufacturer's specs or call the Mfr and ask what kind of BEC the ESC has.




