I'm lucky enough to have an android phone anyways so I'm quite content. But for you Apple guys, you could buy a cheap tablet or old phone and run with that too. I know that's an extra expense and whatnot but it's an option

WOW! Big props to all the people at Tekin, you really knocked it out of the park with v255. I updated both my RSX controllers Friday night and went racing on Saturday.

I couldn't believe how much smoother the bottom end of both my mod motor truck and 13.5 buggy was with just a firmware change. After making a few tweaks I ran my fastest laps ever in stadium truck and it was so easy drive. My 13.5 buggy was a little off in chassis setup, but Tekin power kept me near the top...barely squeezing off a TQ and finishing second in the main after getting caught up in lapped traffic.

For those of you who haven't upgraded to v255 yet...DO IT!

For apple users, head on down to Best Buy and snatch up one of these

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/amazon-f...&skuId=4390200

It's $50 and will solve your iPhone problem. These are great little tablets.

-W

Yes I got an android tablet for $30 shipped new on Amazon and I just keep it in my pit bag.
All my other stuff is iPhone iPad stuff and if it gets stolen.. Big deal

hot motor
 

After updated to the v255, I notice that the motor temp is very hot. I removed the pinion and full throttle the motor for 15 - 20 seconds. Motor temp can reach 130F +

I tried 2 17.5t motors (R1 and TeamPower) in blinky. Is it because of the drive frequency? I've tried 4k and 7k, both resulted in very hot motors. (just free spinning, no pinion attached)

ESC is also hot too. Around 100F.

Any idea?

I've always heard/been told that doing no load testing with motors at best doesn't give you any good info and at worst can damage the motor.

I only have 1 night of temp data from v255 but what I have observed is this...

My 8.5 motor ran around the same temp with v255 as it did with v250.

My 13.5 motor was around 10-15 degrees hotter than I expected, but traction level was very high along with the ambient air temp. Normally when it gets that hot the track dries out and gets loose....however we have had lots of rain lately and they have been watering the track a lot, so traction and air temp were high. These two combined, I think was the source of the hotter motor temps.

I can report back with more data, but it's going to be a few weeks until I can get to the track and collect more....too busy with work and family for next few weeks.

Any update on when we can expect to see updated setup sheets for 1/8 Scale:
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/esc...up-sheets.html

I see Ryan Lutz sharing a bit on Facebook, but his settings are hard to see in his photos.

I was under the impression the setup pages would be updated soon after the update, it is still really out of date.

Thanks!

now I saw that the problems with the new firmware 255 not just me, everyone has one and they are all different!

Huh?

I personally am having no problems with the v255 update, and I would highly recommend the update to anyone running an ESC that will support it.

The new v255 gives several new features, and in my opinion a smoother bottom end pull.

I have no affiliation with Tekin, I'm just a weekend racer and a fan of Tekin products.

-W

Same here, no problems with the update, app or PC (running win8.1 with VMWare on MacBook).
RSX is solid.

V255 brake is so much smoother now :nod:

Sorry dumb question but any advantage of using tablet/app versus PC program?

I like the Tekin products, it is advanced and modern, many things are only available at the Tekin, but the Tekin is just as very lame, I have here a motor Tekin, they have the front end of the shaft is broken in the bearing so that only to throw it away! but the amount of copper in the groove of the motor, the ideology of the Assembly they are very good!

Portability. Unless you have a laptop pc, dragging your desktop to the track would be a pain in the behind. A tablet or phone is easier to bring to the track and hook up as desired.

There are a couple features only available for modification on the android version from what I remember. Or at least on this version.

And romanmotruk has some personal vendetta against Tekin, his constant postings and insults to Tekin only make him look more ridiculous by the day.

The 255 version is incredible, brake and throttle frequency allow you to tune your buggy so much better. I've said it before, it is almost like a completely new ESC with these recent changes.. and still fast as ever, I've experienced no performance drop.

Thanks guys. I use a laptop at the track because need to do Castle also.

I am having the same issue, updated to the new firmware, running 17.5 blinky. Geared the same as I was before update, notice motor coming off very hot. 178 after 5 minutes.

V250 vs V255 has minor changes for defaults.

Free spinning a motor and checking temps isn't something you should make a habit. It's not a real test of anything.

In general lower drive frequencies are better for stock since it offers a bit more punch.

what drive frequency are you running at?

I'm running 8k with the timing on the motor crank to the max. around 150-160f after 5 minutes.

I never run can timing cranked to the max. Gen3's like to be around 42-52 tops in most conditions.

I'm running 4k drive, 6k brake can timing at 49 degrees geared 72/31 on my Yokomo Ca 3 gear car. Torque set to 9.

I am running 17.5 blinky in a b5m lite with a certified trinity SS. Timing on can was set at 62 from trinity. I came off at 168 in a 5 minute race. 69/30. Torques set to 10. Throttle and break freq. set to default. Drop timing to 55 on the can and temps drop to 155 but lost a lot of punch. Placed motor on analzer moved timing up to 60 drawing 4.4. Motor came off at 178 after 6 min A main. Again 69/30. Had a lot of punch. Charging at 15 amps. Never had issues before but trying to find that sweet spot of power and punch without excessive heat. Any suggestions Randy?

75ft straight into sweeper into a double. Other than that track is high speed and flat. High grip clay.
Thanks

Try lowering your drive frequency and see how you like it. I've gone as low as 2k on stock.

Thanks, just checked, had my throttle freq. at 4. Dropped it to 2. Race tomorrow.

Randy,

Dropped to 2 as well as gearing change. Car ran well and much cooler. Can you explain how the frequencies will effect the car? What differences should I be seeing in the throttle switching from 2 to 4 as so on? Thanks

Take a look at the WiKi above in this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...raming-7.html#

Ok, I broke down and bought an android tablet for $30.00. The Hot Wire program works great, however, it will not save my setup when I apply settings. Any thoughts? Should I delete and download it again? :confused:

Just deleted and downloaded it again. Works fine now, yeah! You guys can add iRULU tablets to your list.

What brake frequency setting gives your the closest to the old software. Since the upgrade i feel like I am always searching for more brake with a 8.5 turn motor.

Hello HollywoodRC, which tablet did you purchase?
Could give a brief description of the process to install the HotWire App?
What extra parts if any are needed to connect the tablet to the HotWire?

Thanks in advance for your time.

750 Hz is the old brake frequency setting

I'm running a Tekin RSX in my a700 in Stock Class (21.5t Blinky)

Since I have installed the latest update my cars seems so much slower? I have lowered the throttle freq which has made it feel better, but it still seems down on power compared with before?
To make matters worse, I have a few fellow racers I was able to keep behind me comfortably but now my car seems down on power?

Any help appreciated!

What are your settings?

Hey Randy - Below are my current settings:

Drag Brake Off
Brake Minimum 0
Active Brake 0
Brake Strength 100
Push Control 0
Brake Frequency 6101

Throttle Min 18
Neutral Width 12
Reverse Speed 100
Throttle Frequency 2007
Reverse Delay 0.76
Torque 10
Timing Profile 1 - Spec Stock

21.5t Fantom FR1 Motor running 35deg end bell timing

The only thing I have changed is the Tekin update, like I said the car just seems low on punch/power. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Bump,

I am interested in any reply to this too.. It would good to know people's thoughts on how best to approach setup with the new functionality.

Cheers.

Did you make sure to recalibrate the ESC to the radio after the software update? Even if you did, maybe try it again and make sure to reset all your epas before calibration.

After the update did you throttle calibrate?

Your settings are ballpark for the team guys running spec turn motors.

Yes, I have reset the end points, throttle etc several times as I also thought this might be causing it, but didn't make a difference.

I'm really not happy with it, it is seriously slower than before the update. I do have another RSX in my 13.5 car that i havnt updated, so i will swap the esc's over and see how the updated one performs in my 13.5t boosted car.

Thank you though, I do appreciate the help.

Cheers,

The update shouldn't make anything slower. I'd like to see a data log from the car if you can email it to me.

Hey everyone, first I have to say that I love my Tekin products and their customer service is awesome!! The question I have is why can I not get my brakes to "bite" harder in my SC5M? I am running with the RS Gen2 ESC and the 10.5T Gen3. When I apply my brakes it will keep the truck free rolling, I thought it was just mine at first. Then I built my buddies SC5M and got him the same setup and it does the same thing. I have tried increasing the brake on the ESC but still same issue. My TLR 22-4 2.0 with the RSX and 6.5t will stop on a dime if needed, at factory settings. Any input would be awesome, thanks in advance guys.

What is your Brake frequency set at? Also have you made sure to calibrate your Radio and ESC after hotwire update?

Honestly I do not know how to set my brake frequency or how to even look at it. I have re calibrated my radio and ESC. Is the brake frequency done through the radio or is it something that I need the hotwire for? If the case is with hotwire I can order one and check to see if that may lead me to any further improvements.