I've mostly always ran Tekin with great luck. Dabbled a little bit with speed passion and castle but the Tekins always found their way back in.

Sometimes I get quite frustrated hearing everyone complain about customer support and companies not replacing items at low costs if not free. This hobby is made up of components that are subject to terrible conditions and longetivity of products are directly related to the care and knowledge level of the end user. I guess I just have a different mindset because when I buy a product, the warranty is not a deciding factor. When buying products we are taking risks that the product is going to give a level of satisfactory performance. Most often they do. When they don't, it always seems to be the fault of the company not the customer. RC cars are, in general, one of the cheaper hobbies available. Get into any sort of motor sports and you don't see racers nagging their engine builders for a free rebuild every time they burn a motor up. Perspective people, just saying....

As someone who manufactured his own products for Paintball and warranteed them for the life of the products, I fully understand people do boneheaded things and then expect you to uphold your warranty. I can't speak for anyone else but in my particular situation I had Tekin ESC's in perfect working order and in mint condition that would cause my cars to dart to the side without warning or on the rare occasion just take off like a bat out of hell. I wasn't asking for any special consideration but I expected a company of their reputation to at least try to get me squared away. Again, I understand companies cannot get it right all the time but when it's 4 different ESC's causing the exact same issue on 4 different cars, it's pretty difficult to say it was user error.

With the Pro & R Models you can change everything. The "S" Stock Club Race model's timing is permanently set to zero but not sure on the regular "S" model as I want to say I remember reading an article on touring cars running Reventon S ESC's with mod motors of low turns.

This. Just as there are some people who burn up stuff, there are companies that run too quickly to "its you not me" kind of take on warranty work. Gotta be a happy medium somewhere ...

So you could load in profiles on the ESC seperately for different modes? that was a big factor that lead me away from the speed passions I had. Having to load the "blinky" firmware sucked if you wanted to quick swap to boosted ability at the track when there wasn't turn out, or, if you ran the same vehicle in more than one class like open 2wd versus buggy stock to get another class to run in. Thats awesome if you can.

Happened to me twice. I had my VBC buggy set to stock spec and went to a race just to find out that they only ran mod. Well I swap motors in less than 10 minutes but was SOL when it came down to program the SP ESC as I had stock0 firmware in the card and couldn't add any boost of timing or reverse. That is the only down I had with SP. Other than that it was a very good esc. I burned by plugging the negative bullet connector into the positive side of the battery by mistake. OOOPS! LOL.

The tekin , novak , and smc all have boost and blinky in the same program . With the speed passion and the mod software on it , if you turn the boost to 0 , does the esc blink then ? That's how the smc does it , and I thought that's how my reventon did it

Pretty sure that's how it works. Will try and do a vid if I have the time. Looked for one online and found nothing. From memory, I want to say SP uses profile "Stock 0" as their Blinky default, but not 100% positive.

Its been a while since I owned the reventon pro but if you don't have the firmware "stock0v21" loaded in the esc it will not blink as it should by the ROAR list which is: "Yellow LED On, Red double blink, repeating every 1.84 seconds". Some of them require V20 firmware and the description says: 'Zero timing mode indicated by blinking Red LED at neutral. Stock software file is STOCH0 Version 20 and is displayed on LCD and via PC software".

No offense, but I would say that this would point very STRONGLY towards user error. No matter what ESC you buy, and no matter what car you mount it into.. somehow you have the same bizarre behavior from all your ESCs. I would likely first point my finger at your soldering skills... But this certainly doens't sound like a defective unit type issue. There is something you are doing. There is no way you got 4 lemon/defective ESCs, that all gave the same exact symptoms, all at the same time.

No offense taken but you would be 1,000% wrong.

Everything was wired perfectly and all the soldering was exquisitely flawless. All my cars had the same exact equipment with the exception of one that had an off brand servo I was testing for a friend who was looking to OEM them for his brand.

My soldering skills are among the best and my solder jobs are flawless or I won't have it. Been soldering electronics since I was about 9 or so and when I was 14 or so was soldering up everyone's RC Cars at the track. When Mod chips were introduced for the original playstation I was doing those too. Mod controllers for Xbox & Dualshock 2 & 3 as recent as last year and I've never botched a soldering job. I even have the proper irons for each application. And now that I think about it. I solder most of my brother-in-law's boat equipment (Real boats not RC ones. LOL) Chart Plotters, Depth finders, Radios, u name it I do it.

This was most definitely an ESC issue but it's not that they were defective. It's that the RS Pro and Servos were drawing too much amperage from the system together but other ESC's draw a bit less which means the system was never overdrawn. Trust me, I didn't just install the new ESC's and call it a day. I went back and tired the RS Pros again but they still caused brown outs. At the time I had only 3-channel Rx's and all my ports were taken up, and on my 410 in particular, no room for a glitch buster with everything crammed in.

Swapped ESC brands and never needed to upgrade Rx or Servos on any of my cars so ti was the best solution for me.

Tekin knew about the draw and they suggested I add a receiver pack or glitch buster but said the pack would be best. Yeah, no thanks.

Can someone explain the difference to me?

This is internet gold, right here.

Lets see a picture

Here is a decent read: http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/24

Don't have close enough pics or ones that are focussed well enough to show it but I just ordered a new soldering station this morning because my old one died a few months back. I did find this pic of a V3.1 i did for mu buddy a couple of weeks ago using my ancient and well worn out Hobbico 60 watt iron I take for field use.



I think it should meet your standards perfectly fine and considering the tip was severely pitted, I think you'll be satisfied that I indeed know what I'm doing.

I recommend the soldering station I have. A PACE MBT 250. Awesome soldering station. Lots of tips from needle points to square one to solder IC chips, etc... Also has a vacuum pump for desoldering or blower for blowig hot air. Cant go wrong wit PACE.

I think that's a bit overkill for RC. LOL

And holy hell it's expensive!!!