Best way to charge a Lipo, A/C or D/C?
07-20-2014, 09:24 PM
#1
Best way to charge a Lipo, A/C or D/C?
Looking for advice on charging a lipo, as the title indicates. Specifically, is it best to charge a lipo from a socket power source at the end of a long extension cord (that is being used by 10 other people) or to charge using a DC power source hooked-up to a charger.
My theory is that the D/C power source would be less corrupted by all the power-suckers upstream from me, and provide me with a more consistent power source that would be less likely to see power fluctuations.........or am I short-circuiting here?
Currently considering a D/C power source to run the charger but want feedback before laying down more $$$...any input from you battery savvy racers would be greatly appreciated.
My theory is that the D/C power source would be less corrupted by all the power-suckers upstream from me, and provide me with a more consistent power source that would be less likely to see power fluctuations.........or am I short-circuiting here?
Currently considering a D/C power source to run the charger but want feedback before laying down more $$$...any input from you battery savvy racers would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by OttoKrosse; 07-20-2014 at 10:00 PM.
07-20-2014, 10:51 PM
#3
numerous people using electrics off of one extension cord can definately trip the circuit breaker of the building especially if two people turn on their 1000 watt heat guns.
the power supply of your charger can determine how quickly your battery will charge. older AC chargers with their built in power supply generally have no nuts.
the power supply of your charger can determine how quickly your battery will charge. older AC chargers with their built in power supply generally have no nuts.
07-21-2014, 03:39 AM
#4
In a sense they are the same thing, as AC/DC chargers have a built in power supply. But as mentioned an oversized power supply with a DC charger will likely provide somewhat better stability.
The OCD way is to use a lead acid battery to power the charger. A sufficiently large lead acid is a stable power source, provides protection against power fluctuations, tripped cords, generators running out of gas, etc. With a small 'smart' charger keeping the lead acid charged up, the battery will act as a filter.
Can be interesting to check the voltage when on a long cord with many others. I've seen it drop to the low mid 90s volt range, once to the high 80s, at big races. Can be hard on electronics, they typically will run hotter, I've experienced a couple power supply failures at big events.
The OCD way is to use a lead acid battery to power the charger. A sufficiently large lead acid is a stable power source, provides protection against power fluctuations, tripped cords, generators running out of gas, etc. With a small 'smart' charger keeping the lead acid charged up, the battery will act as a filter.
Can be interesting to check the voltage when on a long cord with many others. I've seen it drop to the low mid 90s volt range, once to the high 80s, at big races. Can be hard on electronics, they typically will run hotter, I've experienced a couple power supply failures at big events.
07-22-2014, 10:13 AM
#5
In a sense they are the same thing, as AC/DC chargers have a built in power supply. But as mentioned an oversized power supply with a DC charger will likely provide somewhat better stability.
The OCD way is to use a lead acid battery to power the charger. A sufficiently large lead acid is a stable power source, provides protection against power fluctuations, tripped cords, generators running out of gas, etc. With a small 'smart' charger keeping the lead acid charged up, the battery will act as a filter.
Can be interesting to check the voltage when on a long cord with many others. I've seen it drop to the low mid 90s volt range, once to the high 80s, at big races. Can be hard on electronics, they typically will run hotter, I've experienced a couple power supply failures at big events.
The OCD way is to use a lead acid battery to power the charger. A sufficiently large lead acid is a stable power source, provides protection against power fluctuations, tripped cords, generators running out of gas, etc. With a small 'smart' charger keeping the lead acid charged up, the battery will act as a filter.
Can be interesting to check the voltage when on a long cord with many others. I've seen it drop to the low mid 90s volt range, once to the high 80s, at big races. Can be hard on electronics, they typically will run hotter, I've experienced a couple power supply failures at big events.
Thanks Dave, (and the others that contributed) I'm looking for a stable and consistent way to charge that keeps the power levels within a small range of operating voltage, which should provide a better charge to the batteries.
I'm considering the Trak Power VR1 charger and the DPS power supply, but the set is expensive and I'm not sure I really NEED it yet. If I can justify it knowing it's a significantly better charging system than the Hitec X1 Touch charger I'm currently using then maybe I'll jump on it.
What other advantges are there to charging via DC, or disadvantges?
Thanks again,
07-22-2014, 01:25 PM
#6
The charger will filter the voltages down to what you want them to be. And either way you go, the battery will be charged dc through either the power supply, or the internal power supply in the charger.
It sounds like you are using the hitec x1 touch ac/dc charger, which has an internal ps, and you are confusing that and thinking the charger is just being ac, vs a charger with an external power supply being dc.
the ac wall power is converted into dc, either by the internal ps, or the external ps. It isn't charged ac even if the ac wall cord plugs directly into the charger.
It sounds like you are using the hitec x1 touch ac/dc charger, which has an internal ps, and you are confusing that and thinking the charger is just being ac, vs a charger with an external power supply being dc.
the ac wall power is converted into dc, either by the internal ps, or the external ps. It isn't charged ac even if the ac wall cord plugs directly into the charger.
07-22-2014, 03:25 PM
#8
The charger will filter the voltages down to what you want them to be. And either way you go, the battery will be charged dc through either the power supply, or the internal power supply in the charger.
It sounds like you are using the hitec x1 touch ac/dc charger, which has an internal ps, and you are confusing that and thinking the charger is just being ac, vs a charger with an external power supply being dc.
the ac wall power is converted into dc, either by the internal ps, or the external ps. It isn't charged ac even if the ac wall cord plugs directly into the charger.
It sounds like you are using the hitec x1 touch ac/dc charger, which has an internal ps, and you are confusing that and thinking the charger is just being ac, vs a charger with an external power supply being dc.
the ac wall power is converted into dc, either by the internal ps, or the external ps. It isn't charged ac even if the ac wall cord plugs directly into the charger.
So far the Hitec X1 Touch has done everything I've asked of it, but then I'm not a whiz at this new battery and charger technology. My RC IQ is still in the 1980s....but I am learning fast....with help from this forum and local racers.
Thanks for your input!!!
07-23-2014, 07:59 AM
#12
Problem with DC based chargers is the extra item to carry around. If that does not bother you there are chargers with very high output that can be selected. But if you charge at 10 amps or less anyway a DC charger can be had reasonable that will do outstanding work without carrying the external power supply.
beyond that no real difference
beyond that no real difference
07-23-2014, 08:05 AM
#13
my only issue with ac/dc chargers is that the PSU are kinda cheap and I see them fail. But yeah, I can definitely relate to not wanting to carry crap around. If I were to buy another ac/dc charger, I would get the hyperion 0720i net AD. It would charge a 2s at 10 amps no problem, it had IR checking and could be connected to your PC to cycle packs and save/graph the results. That being said, the icharger 106b+ and a small server supply like the dps-1200 are great to have. The dps-1200 is really small and packs a punch at 75amp/900 watts.
07-23-2014, 11:49 PM
#14
im also very new to this, but love my hyperion 730i, i got it for 100 bucks on amazon, and use one or two converted hp pc server power supplies, so far with a carry case and charger and supply, im under 180 bucks, and can charge a big batt really quickly, although id really like to try an icharger 306b (i think it is) it looks really nice!
i did not know the 720i was acdc! ill have to research that one a little more
i did not know the 720i was acdc! ill have to research that one a little more