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Trinity D4 17.5

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Old 07-16-2014, 05:59 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by elex300
This is the unit I use. It gets the job done.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...h=watt%20meter
Any way you could post a vid or step by step instructions on how you are doing this? I see you posted earlier to just remove rear wheels but have seen others mention removing pinion and free reving. I just ordered the same meter you are using and plan to test all of my motors for ideal settings. Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by elex300
This is the unit I use. It gets the job done.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...h=watt%20meter


Is this the same kind of product? http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ch-Power-Meter

I'm not risking an order from the hobby king overseas warehouse. Amain for the win.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
Is this the same kind of product? http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ch-Power-Meter

I'm not risking an order from the hobby king overseas warehouse. Amain for the win.
Yes that is the same thing. The link to the Hobbyking meter is out of there US warehouse.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:17 AM
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That is the US warehouse and 50% less. No performance on the track from that part... it has a simple job and $20 or $44 will accomplish the same thing.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by joncmack
Any way you could post a vid or step by step instructions on how you are doing this? I see you posted earlier to just remove rear wheels but have seen others mention removing pinion and free reving. I just ordered the same meter you are using and plan to test all of my motors for ideal settings. Thanks.
I prefer having the drive train connected minus the wheels. I feel if you set a motor for lets say 10 amps for example. If you do this free reving then install it in your drive train is it still pulling 10 amps? I feel setting the amp draw with the drive train connected,minus wheels,is more accurate. I could be wrong though.

1. First I hook the meter up in line between the esc and lipo. Always use a fully charged battery.
2. Next you turn on the esc and radio
3. Then with the motor installed in the drive train and wheels removed apply full throttle untill the amperage peaks.
4. make adjustments if needed to reach your desired setting and retest.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:49 AM
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Thanks
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:46 PM
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Unfortunately I cannot try the D4 tonight. Trinity sent me a new sensor board and so far, the motor is performing well. I put a high torque 5% rotor in as well. I am vert excited to try it.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Pittsdriver
Unfortunately I cannot try the D4 tonight. Trinity sent me a new sensor board and so far, the motor is performing well. I put a high torque 5% rotor in as well. I am vert excited to try it.
what gearing...
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:30 PM
  #144  
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with my 5% torque rotor i started at 35/72 in my B5M and ended up at 36/72 with about 63-65 degrees timing on the can. also running a fan on it. comes off at about 150-160.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
with my 5% torque rotor i started at 35/72 in my B5M and ended up at 36/72 with about 63-65 degrees timing on the can. also running a fan on it. comes off at about 150-160.
How is the torque with that gearing?
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by elex300
How is the torque with that gearing?
i had no problems clearing any of the jumps on our track. when i tried 35/72 i went as high as about 70 degrees on the timing, but at that setting it cogged at low speeds, came off hot and lost too much on the bottom (but was VERY fast on the straight). so i wouldn't go any higher than about 65 degrees on the timing (for those that don't have the motor, the last marked line on the can is 60 degrees).
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i had no problems clearing any of the jumps on our track. when i tried 35/72 i went as high as about 70 degrees on the timing, but at that setting it cogged at low speeds, came off hot and lost too much on the bottom (but was VERY fast on the straight). so i wouldn't go any higher than about 65 degrees on the timing (for those that don't have the motor, the last marked line on the can is 60 degrees).
Thats great info. Thank you for posting your findings.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:44 PM
  #148  
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What kinda numbers are the 5% 12.5 tourq rotors getting? Curious.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:48 PM
  #149  
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Should I wait for this or get a killshot for my B5rm? will be running 17.5 on clay.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:51 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by vr6cj
What kinda numbers are the 5% 12.5 tourq rotors getting? Curious.
avg. 1415-1430 from 2 5% I purchased. I have a off the shelf 12.5 torque under 1400

Ive had better luck with Fantoms Pro select rotors. Two I bought had way better numbers than the 5% I tried.

I have been running Fantom equipment for about 2 years and have not been disappointed yet.

Last edited by goots; 07-16-2014 at 09:08 PM.
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