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Originally Posted by rcgod
(Post 13145279)
Recently decided to try 17.5 non ramp buggy class. Built an X factory cubed with reedy mach2 motor. Used lightweight parts, adapted mip pucks, smc factory spec shorty, took seals off of bearings and cleaned and lightly oiled them, etc. The car came in at 1470 rtr. I added 30 grams to bring it up to weight. The speed and acceleration difference between my car and the fastest cars was huge. Those guys have way more acceleration and at least 5 mph on top end. Started asking around the pits and was told I need to charge my batteries at 10 amps min and a lot of guys are over charging to bring voltage up to around 9 volts. They are also using tweaked motors (whatever that means), ceramic bearings, cut down trans gears, etc. I know that every little bit helps as far as reduced friction but the difference is way more than ceramic bearings are going to give me. I asked a couple of guys what gearing I should run and even called associated and asked and all said 30/72 with 40 timing. Tried that and my car was slower than anything on the track. Went to 32/69 and 50 timing and it was better but still slow. Motor was about 120 after 6 minute run. I guess my questions are what am I doing wrong, and is cheating really that rampant in this class? Over charging the battery is the only way I can see getting my car up to their speed but that seems dangerous as well as illegal.
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The exotek slipper eliminator uses kimbrough spur gears and they make down to a 66t 48p gear. You can also use 64p gears with it for even less friction.
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Originally Posted by gogi108
(Post 13154618)
Figured so , wouldnt mind a pic if anyone has to see how much is taken off , not that I will bother . Have some state title events in the coming months and will look at pucks ,alu cvds topshaft shorten wiring and see if I can tell the difference with my 22 2.0 . At club level it does fine and I have never really experienced these stock rockets some speak of . I am running an old trinity d3 hobbywing speedy and nanotech shorties and seems on par with anything else out there
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anyone got gearing for an orion vst2 17.5 I will run it in either my b5 or my 22 2.0 this weekend
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Originally Posted by mupchu
(Post 13154656)
I have one, and results are mixed. I like the feel of a slipper more, even on a high bite track. Take this with a grain of salt . . this is mid motor losi 22 2.0 at ocrc, and lrh. Both locations indoor clay, high bite. I just felt more consistent and comfortable with the slipper, and I did not have that much of a performance increase from the eliminator. If you can find some smaller spurs you might have some more options I was geared 72/30 I believe.
Keep in mind I use the AVID triad slipper so it is still lighter than stock, using pucks and ceramic bearings also; so maybe it helps a little but was not noticeable since I have already significantly lightened everything. |
Do you check for motor wattage with load or without load? Do you take the pinion out or with pinion on?
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Any tips for the lrp x20 17.5? I didn't see it in any of the posts. Or is it such a difficult motor that nobody wants to fool with it? Noone runs it in my area but I have one and I think it can be competitive
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Ttt
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Anybody use the Avid Centering kit in stock racing? If so does it make the truck seem heavy ?
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Originally Posted by walterheard
(Post 13630762)
Anybody use the Avid Centering kit in stock racing? If so does it make the truck seem heavy ?
Can't tell its there, but it jumps a lot more stable! |
Anybody else expirence the exotek slipper eliminater not fitting the top shaft ?
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What Car do you have?
What car and what color is your Peace ?
Originally Posted by walterheard
(Post 13631757)
Anybody else expirence the exotek slipper eliminater not fitting the top shaft ?
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If I have a 12.5 mm rotor in my 17.5 motor will any 12.5 mm rotor work as a replacement or only one for specific manufacturer
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We dont have a 17.5 class yet but interest is showing and with a new indoor track coming soon although after reading all of this mod is much simpler!! but i enjoy the art of tweaking to get faster so so be it!
I made some fully machined thin gears for my SRX that really increased acceleration, really surprised me how much of a difference that along with eliminating one of the idler gear bearings (2 on MM) makes! Are the High torque stators the way to go? or even HT stator and rotor? |
Ht all the way
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