reedy, trinity (might be the one that roar had a problem with), etc. Do not know others but, in general, probably major manufacturers.

Also heard that tekin runs faster with tekin esc. Anyone confirm?

I'm seeing the same behavior with this same motor. I did almost the same change in the timing when I raced for the first time Friday night and was really suprised how hot it was running.

-Thanks, Todd

Here is my stock set up:
TLR 22 2.0
Airtronics MT-4
Savox 1258 servo
Tekn RS Gen 2
Shurr Speed 17.5 standard rotor
Exotek Slipper eliminator
MIP Pucks System
ProTek 2s 100c 3200 Mah pan car battery (super lite and great punch)
Rear motor config

Geared 69/30 for a small technical track. LOTS OF TURNS!(outdoor med traction at day high traction at night)

Bigger indoor clay track i would gear 69/36

I get all i need out of this set up.

i run the tekin gen 2 17.5 in stock buggy, with my losi 22 i run 72-30..

i am told the ae cars can take a bit more pinion being as their internal ratio is higher..

What type of track are you running this gearing on?

If you want the motor to perform better . shim the rotor so its centered, this is done by feel . polish out the bearing races in the motor so the bearings just slip in and out, not a pressed fit .

The fast guys at my local track run Team Scream Racing 17.5. My friend won the stock SCT a-main at the short course showdown at RC Excitement. He also took 5th in the MOD SCT with his STOCK truck. The motor is roar approved. It's impressive.

I have heard they by the hottest motor then send it out
To get the rotor balanced and lightened
Then they buy the lightest everything possible
Till you have about 1200 into a 2wd
And on top of that they can drive
I know one guy at a big race the venders showed up with
Super light out drives or cvds he bought all 3 sets they had just so
No one else could by them
If you ask me I would run mod then every one has
more motor than they can use

are they teching it? Could be underweight the fastest cars?

Very cool. Will this work with most spur gears?

Some will buy multiple motors of the same brand and test the stators and the rotors for the best 2 and build a motor with those components. Its expensive but it does help. Same with lipos. They buy a few and test them to see which one maintains 4V the longest. Then you can get in to the cut gears and aluminum drive shafts etc. However if you cant run a full heat with out being marshalled your wasting your money. If you want a guaranteed fast motor then check out Trinity's Certified 5% line of motors. Each one is hand built with the strongest rotors and stators from every batch they get. These are the only motors I run and do very well with them.

Do you have a video of a race showing this?

I get what you're trying to say but a lot of fastest guys at my track still bobble every now and again in a 5 minute run. I like to think consistency is a bigger deal. If you aren't consistent, it really doesn't matter what you put into the car.

Being consistent is important but the guys with the big bucks
Can gain back a lot on a long straight with all that speed
Run mod and it's all about driving fast being consistent
And avoiding trouble
Either way you go good luck and have fun

Any of you guys running 14 gauge wire instead of 12 gauge? Just got some in and weighed it. With my setup were looking at a 7-8 gram weight reduction. Not sure that worth it or even noticeable.