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Originally Posted by JS70
(Post 12856808)
Plenty of sensor wires have been tried on both orions and both maxzilla's.
If the trinity sensor was bad why would it work perfectly fine on the rx8 in sensored mode? Running sensorless just proves that the sensor board is not the problem. the orion will switch to sensorless and "should" at least run the motor. If you read the orion thread there are indeed motors the r10 does not like. It is also not what I believe is a cogging issue. It will not start at all unless you push the car first. |
Originally Posted by whitrzac
(Post 12856831)
That's usually a sensor head issue.
As in your motor needs a new sensor head/assembly, not just a new wire. Would there be a reason why they run fine on the rx8? i ruled out the motor after buying a 2nd one and having the same result. Would there also be a reason why they wont run sensorless when the other motors I have will. the ONLY reason I am trying sensorless is to rule out the sensor board. I have tried the killshot sensor end cap assembly on the Max ( not even sure if that is compatible) and it did not work. I also tried swapping in the rotor from the killshot to the max. I really want the r10 to work because I own 2 of them with the programming board etc. |
IRRC both the tekin and castle escs will default to sensorless mode if it can't read the sensors.
It could be a wiring issue too. |
Originally Posted by Ivegotklas
(Post 12856867)
If you need to push the car to get it to start that means you could have a faulty phase. Make sure your solder joints are good on both motor and esc. It is possible to run a 3 phase motor off 2 phases. Sensored or unsensored wouldn't matter. No speed control can detected the manufacture of the motor all it sees is the resistance of the motor. This is a motor issue. I bet you if take them apart the stators will have some damage.
I will ohm out the motors to see if I can find something that stands out. With as many times as I have soldered these things I am ruling out a soldering issue. They are running through solid bullet connectors for easy motor changes and the r10pro ran the Killshot fine all day yesterday. I keep coming back to how perfect they run on the rx8. |
UPDATE
Problem solved. I did not remove every variable and missed a cold solder connection or one that may have overheated once and came loose that was under heat shrink at the male bullet. I kept transferring the wires themselves at the motor "assuming" the bullets were fine when I was actually transferring the problem from motor to motor !!! When I tested the rx8 I did a direct solder as it was on my pro 4 truck. Thanks guys for all of the help and making me think harder. |
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Originally Posted by whitrzac
(Post 12857136)
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