I have a lrp flow esc that is showing the red and blue light on with the green light flashing. It says in the manual that these lights mean the esc is in locked rotor protection. This started the first time I used it. I installed it into a Durango wheeler with a 6.5 Tekin Redline motor. The guys at the track said that lrp and tekin don't work good together and that I needed to get another motor. So I pulled the flow out and put it in my new 22 2.0. I installed a reedy 17.5 sonic motor th3n made sure the flow was in blinky mode. Also I set it up to my controller since I got a futaba 4pls. I turned on the car and the same thing happened, it ran for twenty seconds then I hit the brake and the flow went into the locked rotor protection. There is no burnt smell but I haven't replaced the cap yet to see if that will make a difference. Is there a way to reset the flow? Maybe it's locked up from running the tekin motor before? Not sure. Or, should I send this esc in to lrp or whoever repairs them now. Thanks for any help on this.

Are you using the same sensor wire for both motors? If so, that would be the 1st thing I'd check. There is no reset per se. It is supposed to be an auto reset.

Did you try another sensor wire ? From what I understand "locked motor protection" is that the ESC thinks the rotor is not moving and therefore shuts the motor off, so I'd guess there's something wrong with the Sensor/ESC dialogue.
My 2 cents.

Jonathan

I had this same thing happening tonight. Same error code. The car just coasted to a stop in the warmup lap.
Changed sensor wire, tried re-calibrating, tried re-binding, tried different motor.
Nothing helped.
I've had the esc for 2 months and it's been flawless. Then this. Had to use a different esc.

The odd thing is this happened to me too. Last night. I have an LRP flow and a Reedy motor. I got the same error code. Funny thing is my Sct with a tekin RX8 and 4300hd motor did the same thing. The only common denominator is my radio. An MT 4 by airtronics. If I push the cars they roll and drive. Once I stop my cars they won't move. I'm wondering if it's a radio receiver problem.

Make sure your throttle and brake epa's are 100 percent when setting up your radio to your esc. LRP speedo's dont like the epa's to be above 100 percent, why the mfg's make a percentage to go to 150, i dont know the reasoning there. Possibly a bad motor sensor or the tiny sensor wire pins are not pushed in all the way. I use a scribe and carefully push the tiny pins in untill they seat all the way.

Did anyone with this issue end up resolving the problem?

I just bought a 2nd hand LRP Flow Team Works and it arrived with locked rotor error, even though I've tried multiple radio systems, calibrations, sensor wires and motors.

Is it fixable myself?

i run the flow tekin motor combo no problems my stock buggy wheelies.its prob. was the sencer wire then you tried to run the motor with the bad wire ruined the speedo iv done it before.

Ok for me m'y problem is when i'm trying to setup the esc the blue light and the Green light flash in same Time and canot ajust m'y trigger. And When I run 5 minutes the problem came back. Anyone have this problem? And also the esc are nô way smooth.

I had this issue once and it was because the Lipo cut off was set higher than it should have been, as a result it flashed the green light and locked rotor position but was actually the Lipo cut off indicator. They look very much the same.

Looking at buying one of these for 4wd 1/10 build. Had good luck with their 1/8 scale motors and esc's. Only concern is I'm seeing a ton of them for sale on here lately. Just wondering if their is problems or new version coming out?

[QUOTE=GaMudDawg;13890078]Looking at buying one of these for 4wd 1/10 build. Had good luck with their 1/8 scale motors and esc's. Only concern is I'm seeing a ton of them for sale on here lately. Just wondering if their is problems or new version coming ou

Good that you can read the temps of the motor and speedo after your run. Brilliant stuff.

I haven't had the problems that people are talking about. I have had a bad sensor wire which caused me to not Finnish the A main, replaced the wire and was all good again.
I run 3 flow works. 1 in mod, 2 in stock. Had one in my 1/10 dex 410 also but you must have a fan on it for that. These things run very smooth and I've been very happy with them. I also have a couple Tekin rx8 and 2 rs. I switched out the tekin rs for these because I can gear up a tooth on the motor without a loss in performance and it just feels like it has more power without getting hot.
The answer for why people are selling is because there are new esc's out there and a lot of people like trying new stuff, usually because it's what everyone at their local track is talking about and running.
I hope you can figure out the problems. Let us know what it turns out to be. Try rebinding your receiver also. Once you do that set your setting in the radio for 100 percent and recalibrate the esc again. Just one more thing to try before getting rid of it and or sending it in. I never go to 150 percent, although it's supposed to make the range of throttle even smoother.

I don't know if I'm missing something but any help is appreciated. B5M CE with 3 gear tranmission, LRP Flow with a Reedy 8.5. The switch has been cut off car runs fine but lacking in the speed department. I have played with gearing. Button line is The esc is in Blinky mode, and I can't get into programming as nothing happens when I press the mode button for 3-10 seconds. Any thoughts?

Mine started glitching out yesterday, it made my motor speed up and down on its own and completely stop, even when I wasn't moving my finger on the trigger, I've tried different radio and reciver, looked at wires, different batterys and tried to recalibrate it, and now it starts and stops the motor on its own, I couldn't even calibrate it because it wouldn't save my imputs, gg escape!