Iv bean running the 1/10th genII ever since they come out, iv had 10+.
Only issue iv had is 1 had a sticky on/off button, could of been my fault as I was new to soldering & didn't allow the esc to cool down.
& I blew a brand new esc up last week by soldering the deans back to front. My fault no fault from the esc.
Program card is super easy & that's what I love about them

I have a 120a Turbo ESC paired with the Trackstar 17.5T in my SC10. I have reset and calibrated the ESC multiple times and I can't get it to go into blinky. Boost and Turbo are both set to zero and I have checked my setting with what I've seen in this thread should put it in blinky mode. Any help would be appreciated?

Edit: I got it figured out. Other than that no issues what-so-ever.

I went with the 120 amp turbo ESC to go with my thunder power 17.5t in my blitz. I purchased it from the hobbyking ebay store on 2-4-15, received on 2-7-15. I put it in truck and bench tested it on blinky mode and had can fully advanced. It worked great on bench test, almost identical to the tekin rs pro I had in it before. I finally was able to make it to the track today and in the middle of my first battery it stalled out. After full throttle to full stop using the brakes, it will not send any power to the motor. It will only work if you continue to hold the throttle and either push truck, or spin a wheel. I replaced sensor wire, re calibrated esc and radio and checked setting using program box and same thing. I tested it with a tekin rs pro and found the motor works. Has any one ever had a problem like this? If so how did you fix?

Program box help needed
 

I just bought 2 of the 120 amp turnigy trackstar turbo esc's. I got the Turnigy trackstar turbo programming box. It has 2 labels at the top. 1 blue, 1 yellow. Which one am I supposed to plug the esc wire into to program?

Thanks

Jason

Blue

Box
 

What is the yellow for?

No clue.

Question about Punch profile. Is 9 the punchiest and 1 the smoothest setting? Do I have it reversed?

You need to use the throttle wire that plugs into the receiver. The programming card has two inputs. One of them only has a + and -. This port is used to plug in external power, in the event you don't have the ESC wired to a battery.

You want to use the port that has three icons, +, -, and a signal icon.

In my experience that seems correct. 1 for the smoothest initial acceleration, 9 for the most aggressive. I think I use 9 in stock truck and I'm down at 3 with my mod buggy running an 8.5.

anyone tried the Trackstar Gen 2 shortcourse 120 amp esc in a 1/8 buggy? it sasy it can be used in one and i kow some people use the hobbywiing sc esc in 1/8 buggies.

i just dont want ot buy one and have issues.here is the esc.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Truck_ESC.html

I have one to use in my Serpent GT-E, which I know from Eagletree data peaked at 95 Amps so should be fine, I'll know once I manage to get to the track but on paper it should be fine

im still up in the air. the 1/8 trackstar is out of stock...

I just bought one of these "120A 1/12-Scale One Cell Sensored ESC" Trackstar units that I'm installing in a vintage 1/12 pan car with one 3.7V LiPo battery (half of a saddle pack). There are relatively few affordable ESCs that are 1S-compatible, so I hope it works out.

A couple people in this topic have commented that this ESC only works with sensored motors. The box certainly would seem to indicate this, it clearly states "Sensored ESC". What I find strange is that the "Specification" section in the instruction sheet states, "Motor Compatible: Brushless Sensor & Sensorless Motor". :weird:

I was hoping to pair it with a 17.5T SpeedPassion unsensored motor...so I assume nobody has had success with this ESC and unsensored motors?

"Anyone...anyone...?"

I have another question about this ESC, I received it and installed it last night, but until I get a sensored motor, I can't calibrate or program it.

How do you enter manual programming mode on these? They're a bit different than other Hobbywing/EZRun ESCs in that the power button is integrated, and the included instructions make no mention of manual programming, whatsoever. All it says is to use program card or connect to a PC, and the basic calibration method.

I did find the following image on another forum; the program card looks practically identical to my Leopard Toro's program card. I'll compare the image with the Leopard card tonight, but the options look identical...the only difference being the name and color.

Still, I've read that you have additional options when manually programming, and it appears Tx acceleration = yes, Tx reverse = no...but I'm not sure how to enter manual programming mode. Anyone? :)