Brown-Out Issues?
08-10-2013 | 05:36 PM
#31
08-10-2013 | 06:27 PM
#32
I have a similar problem but not quite as bad and it's also not repeatable. It seems to happen randomly during the mains on a full drivers stand with my Tamiya M-05. On some race days it's fine and on others I get lots of problems. I get a combination of power loss and glitching where the steering just won't work like they way I want it to and I end up crashing all over the place. When my car stops moving with loss of power it will usually get going all by itself again after 5-10 seconds.
I'm using an Airtronics M11 radio with the Spektrum module so I tried replacing the receiver and still had the same problem from time to time. I tried using a Futaba, Hitec and finally a Savox steering servo and still had the same problem. The only conclusion i can come to is that the problem is with the ESC on my Orca Spark brushless system. I never had this problem when I was racing with a silver can motor. The weird thing is I use the same Savox servo and Spektrum receiver on my touring car and I never get these issues.
I'm using an Airtronics M11 radio with the Spektrum module so I tried replacing the receiver and still had the same problem from time to time. I tried using a Futaba, Hitec and finally a Savox steering servo and still had the same problem. The only conclusion i can come to is that the problem is with the ESC on my Orca Spark brushless system. I never had this problem when I was racing with a silver can motor. The weird thing is I use the same Savox servo and Spektrum receiver on my touring car and I never get these issues.
08-10-2013 | 06:46 PM
#33
Well, I was trying another receiver, caught a rock in the gears, burned up the ESC. 
But, on the bright side, it didn't glitch or brown-out.
But, on the bright side, it didn't glitch or brown-out.
Last edited by kingofcool999; 08-10-2013 at 07:28 PM.
08-10-2013 | 08:10 PM
#34
08-11-2013 | 07:24 AM
#36
I like to make blanket statements, herp derp.
/sarcasm
You have some hatred for castle care to say why? In that other thread you did some silly things and tried to link Google about castle problems and then you ignored the fact that I linked Google searches for other popular ESC failures.
/sarcasm
You have some hatred for castle care to say why? In that other thread you did some silly things and tried to link Google about castle problems and then you ignored the fact that I linked Google searches for other popular ESC failures.
08-11-2013 | 07:26 AM
#37
08-11-2013 | 07:20 PM
#38
I think I will try adding a bec to see if that helps. The Orca Spark is what every racer at my club uses and none of them have any issues so maybe it's just mine that's a bit defective.
08-22-2013 | 07:50 PM
#39
The saga continues...
I installed a 10 amp BEC and my back-up ESC. Put it on the track and could only run about 10% throttle w/o a significant shutter. Shutter continued between 10 and 20% throttle. 20% and up it went dead.
Hall effect sensor test checked out ok. Did notice some burnt insulation on my sensor cable, undoubtedly from the last ESC burning up.
So... Is it just the sensor cable being damaged having issues at higher power levels or did my last ESC take my motor with it?
I installed a 10 amp BEC and my back-up ESC. Put it on the track and could only run about 10% throttle w/o a significant shutter. Shutter continued between 10 and 20% throttle. 20% and up it went dead.
Hall effect sensor test checked out ok. Did notice some burnt insulation on my sensor cable, undoubtedly from the last ESC burning up.
So... Is it just the sensor cable being damaged having issues at higher power levels or did my last ESC take my motor with it?
08-22-2013 | 07:58 PM
#40
Check the sensor wire, see if there is any resistance across each wire. Try running it with out the sensor connected. Then if nothing else switch in a known good motor. If that still fails you need to look at radio problems.
08-24-2013 | 04:08 PM
#41
So not a problem with the sensor cable or timing sensor. Replaced both w/no change. Checked resistance across the A/B/C tabs on the motor. All combinations are about 2.5 ohms. Any one know what they should be (Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550)?
Other ideas?
Other ideas?
08-24-2013 | 08:21 PM
#42
Upon further examination, expiramentation, etc., I have discovered that the BEC is causing the issue.
I assumed that I should wire-up and use the BEC just like it were a receiver pack. Apparently that ain't the case. The only thing mentioned in the Novak literature is receiver packs...
Any one ran into this with this particular equipment? (CC 10 A BEC w/Novak Havoc Pro SC)
I assumed that I should wire-up and use the BEC just like it were a receiver pack. Apparently that ain't the case. The only thing mentioned in the Novak literature is receiver packs...
Any one ran into this with this particular equipment? (CC 10 A BEC w/Novak Havoc Pro SC)
08-24-2013 | 09:27 PM
#43
CC bec should get wired to the + & - wires or posts on your ESC and then go into any unused port in your RX after disabling the red wire on your ESC lead wire.
Pulls power from the lipo pack along with the ESC and sends directly to the RX.
It uses castle link to change voltage settings.
Pulls power from the lipo pack along with the ESC and sends directly to the RX.
It uses castle link to change voltage settings.
08-25-2013 | 07:25 AM
#44
CC bec should get wired to the + & - wires or posts on your ESC and then go into any unused port in your RX after disabling the red wire on your ESC lead wire.
Pulls power from the lipo pack along with the ESC and sends directly to the RX.
It uses castle link to change voltage settings.
Pulls power from the lipo pack along with the ESC and sends directly to the RX.
It uses castle link to change voltage settings.
08-25-2013 | 07:54 AM
#45
Somethings wrong with the part then. It takes power off of the + & - battery leads and then the other side of it plugs into the receiver. I don't think there's really any other way to do it for electric powered cars.
If its not working in that configuration, somethings wrong with it. I think the default setting is like 5a or 6a and either should be fine, but have you plugged a castle link into it to set it up?
Do you use deans or other connector? Or bullet plugs?
Also, you should be following the castle guide, not novaks.
If its not working in that configuration, somethings wrong with it. I think the default setting is like 5a or 6a and either should be fine, but have you plugged a castle link into it to set it up?
Do you use deans or other connector? Or bullet plugs?
Also, you should be following the castle guide, not novaks.