I got a trinity d3.5 13t motor, soldered it up and threw in it my new schumacher cougar. It felt a little sluggish, I thought it was the battery. Checked the battery realized it was fully charged. So i ran a kv test with the castlelink thing. It is only reading 2950kv instead of the posted 4600kv. I thought the rotor may have been defective, I had an extra one laying around and swapped them out and got a very similar reading. Has this ever happened to anyone else? is the castlelink test accurate? did I get a bad motor?

Thanks

My d3.5 13.5 runs like a bull. Also have a 17.5 and 8.5. No issues. However, anything is possible.

Did you recheck all your wiring, sensor harness and recalibrate the speed control?

i did check the wiring harness and sensor wire and also recalibrated the esc. Probably a stupid question but does it matter what direction the wires are coming out of the soldering tabs? I have them running away from the shaft instead of back towards it. I am not the greatest at soldering but I felt i did a decent job.

I have a few d3 5t and the they are crazy fast

Physical Direction doesn't matter. But make sure your ABC wires are correct.

Is the ESC set for sensored or unsensored operation? The kV rating is only valid when using the sensors, at whatever the "nominal" timing is.

I am having the same problem with my d3.5 17.5. It has no power to get over the jumps. And all the other trucks have no issues at all. I am running it in a t4.2, gearing is at 30/75, ESC is an orion r10 pro. No endbell timing. Please help!! Thanks

I had to crank full end Bell timing to clear the jumps in my buggy when I ran the ď3.5 17.5 geared 28/72 had the fastest buggy down the straight aswell temps at 135.

I'd drop 2 teeth on the pinion and crank the end Bell.

my buddys is 25 or 24/75 in a sc10.2 with timing almost maxed. it runs like a raped ape. i think you are way overgeared for a t4.2

I thought that too but after an 8 minute main I am coming off at 140. I'm lost here. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. From what I hear the d3.5 is the torquiest motor out. So I'm really confused. Thanks

Temp doesn't mean anything unless your way way off. I never tune by temp I tune by how it runs and if it temps well after that then I'm golden, my 13.5 I have now comes off at 115 yet is wicked fast.
The d3.5 17.5 Needs full timing. It's a pig without it. Again drop the pinion a few teeth and crank the timing to Max, should run like a scalded dog. Then you can fine tune if the temps are off.

Ok, last night I was only able to get the timing up too 30 because the end bell was stuck and wouldn't go any further, I didn't know anyone familiar with the d3.5 so I put it down to 0 and ran with it. Is there a way to get the timing bell all the way up to 40? Also I dropped from a 30 tooth too a 28 tooth a few minutes ago. So I'm good on that now I think.

I believe 30* is maxed out on the D3.5. That's the way it was designed to keep from melting them down. I don't know if Trinity changed this with later motors or not.

Oh ok. I'll turn that up then. Is there any other things I should know in order to get more low end power from it?

30 is Max, why they put 40 on there i dunno. It already has 20 built in at zero so 30 in the can is really 50. So start there and be prepared to gear down further still if temps are creeping up with that much timing or if your still having trouble clearing jumps. I understand it's counter intuitive but this motor is a little different.
Let us know how it goes.

Just called my buddy who is running this motor in stock truck and he is geared 25/76 with full timing for a medium track