New Castle Connectors

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Old 05-15-2013, 11:00 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by theblitzkidd View Post
Deans will always be a 1/10 plug, now for 1/8 someone might...might consider those..but if they are as hard to unlug as was mentioned, the whats the idea:/
+1 deans aren't made for 1/8

EC5 are
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:36 PM
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So why then does the HPI Flux Baja 1/5 Brushless come with a single deans plug on the esc? Castle provide the motor/esc if it was such an issue why was it not raised then? I've run a 1/5 scale Baja and with deans they barely get warm.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:59 AM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...e-deans-3.html
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by neospud View Post
I bought four packs of them and have been soldering them up to everything. So far they're definitely quality.. *very* tight fitting. TBH i don't plug them in all the way so i have a chance of disconnecting them again without tools lol.

I've been using them with 12awg which is on my batteries and most of my charge leads/escs. It's a small gauge to use with them but it works fine. They come with a small strip of braided copper and no mention of it in the instructions. I'm thinking maybe it's meant to be used inside to help out with conductivity on smaller AWG wire?
Originally Posted by theblitzkidd View Post
Deans will always be a 1/10 plug, now for 1/8 someone might...might consider those..but if they are as hard to unlug as was mentioned, the whats the idea:/
I plug mine in all the way and almost tore shield off of wire, so I just compressed the male fitting a tiny bit so you don't have to be Mr. Muscles to separate them. Don't worry if you compress them a bit to much and they don't fit tight enough, a 2mm hex will slide in center of male pin and result in a nice tight fit, but not super tight.

The braided copper is solder wick, it used to clean solder on outside of pin if solder spills outside of cup, since if you don't clean it off it will be useless.

Originally Posted by neospud View Post
Erm... they're quite easy once you get the hang of it. The battery side is the female bullet which is big enough to just stand up on a sturdy surface. You can well up some solder in it and push the wire right down and hold it there. Don't even need anything special to hold it.

The male side needs something to hold it. The instructions recommend drilling a hole in a piece of wood and using that. Again after that it's really easy to fill it up with some solder and put the wire in.

Overall i would say definitely easier than deans. You don't even need heat shrink. Traxxas i think would be easier if i could understand exactly how to get them right.

I think traxxas better IMHO. You don't need heat shrink if everything is the right length. You don't need to slip the plastic over first so you can't forget or put it on wrong. They're easier to connect/disconnect.

I think these are for when you really really need 200a continuous and don't have as many options.
I found them easier to solder than traxxas or deans, went very quick with my method. I placed them in phenolic jig (a block of wood drilled for size of pin would work just as well but might burn a bit) and used a cheapo hot air rework station and blew hot air at pin at about 880 degrees and it heated pin in to time, was super clean and easy. I think a little butane pencil torch would work just as well, if not better.

Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I'ld like to see a pic of those next to a deans..
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:41 AM
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Default Anyone try the new castle polarized connectors?

I've been having issues with amp loads frying connectors. I've ruined a set of deans, melted a set of trx connectors, and unsoldered a set of 5.5 bullets.

I soldered up a set of castle polarized connectors, and wowza. I've found my new connector. 6.5 bullets, rated at 200a continuous, they were slightly warm to the touch after running. They snap together with vengeance however. I am hoping they free up a little bit after some use
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:59 AM
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I told you they were nice. Unfortunately mine have not let up one bit yet. I have to pull the battery out of the boat to get the leverage to unhook the damn things. Lol
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:33 AM
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I just squeeze the male pin in a touch so it still has nice fit but doesn't take crazy strength to unplug it
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:43 AM
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Wow, those are some nice connectors.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:00 PM
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Anyone else using these? I have been using Powerpoles and do love them, but I have ran into a few batteries with wire that's too big for them.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmr4life View Post
Anyone else using these? I have been using Powerpoles and do love them, but I have ran into a few batteries with wire that's too big for them.
i would consider them in larger vehicles (4wd acts, e buggies etc.) but for smaller vehicles (4wd buggy 2wd buggy etc.) i think they are overkill. in boats and larger size helis they look perfect.

they certainly do look like the face of power handling!
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:42 PM
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I use em on all my 4 cells and bigger. They are amazing! But now back ordered. Puts me in a real bind! Now what? And just a pointer on the plugs. They won't let up after use. Lightly close the male sides with some needle nose and they still hold great but don't require a winch to pull em apart! Lol
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by neospud View Post
Erm... they're quite easy once you get the hang of it. The battery side is the female bullet which is big enough to just stand up on a sturdy surface. You can well up some solder in it and push the wire right down and hold it there. Don't even need anything special to hold it.

The male side needs something to hold it. The instructions recommend drilling a hole in a piece of wood and using that. Again after that it's really easy to fill it up with some solder and put the wire in.

Overall i would say definitely easier than deans. You don't even need heat shrink. Traxxas i think would be easier if i could understand exactly how to get them right.

I think traxxas better IMHO. You don't need heat shrink if everything is the right length. You don't need to slip the plastic over first so you can't forget or put it on wrong. They're easier to connect/disconnect.

I think these are for when you really really need 200a continuous and don't have as many options.
How are you keeping the sodder melted before sticking the wire in? My iron didn't seem to work well enough to melt the sodder pool to stick the wire in.
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:49 PM
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Has anyone else found it extremely difficult to seat the bullet into the connector after it is soldered? I have a perfect solder & nothing pooled out and it's still hard as heck to get hem to snap in???
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:53 PM
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I just switched over to the 6.5 castle connectors and love them! They are a little difficult to seat the bullet into the conector after they are soldered but that's not a deal breaker. I snipped off all my deans and went castle.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mckeown View Post
Has anyone else found it extremely difficult to seat the bullet into the connector after it is soldered? I have a perfect solder & nothing pooled out and it's still hard as heck to get hem to snap in???
I set mine on a vise & using a bolt(female)/4way wrench(male) tap them in, the female ends will go in too far if hit too hard.
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