Tekin RX8 issue??? Need help!!
 

Alright guys. Here is my issue. I have a Tekin RX8 Gen2 esc. I have it all set up with the hot wire system. Once I am trying to calibrate it to my remote it will not read for forward. It will reat reverse and left and right but the truck will not bind together to go forward. I gave tried all the stuff I know to do and I am getting nothing. I am using the new Futaba 4px remote if that will help.

Did you try reversing the Throttle input on your transmitter? Sometimes I need to do that for my RX8 to calibrate the forward throttle.

Im pretty sure the order goes neutral forward and reverse and it wont continue until it reads each point so reversing it on your transmitter or via hotwire should fix it.

Yea I reversed the motor on my remote and controller. Yet I still can't get it to read forward. Not sure what's up.

Make sure your throttle trims are not too far past neutral either. Tekin speeders don't like when the transmitter throttle trims are too far past neutral one way or another. Set everything to default on the transmitter model and try it again.

Yep tried that. Still nothing. I'm gonna try a different reciever I guess. The one now is brand new. But it could be bad.

Hi guys,

Im new here. My name is Wen, 31 years and live in The Netherlands.
Recently I purchased a Hitec 7950 servo for my truggy. But I cant use it with the rx8 gen2. When I set the bec voltage to 7.4v on the esc, it just bowns out with out even driving. Wheels locks when turned full left or right. When the bec setting is on 6v its a little better, but still cant drive and steer at the same time.
The specs of the rx8 gen2 states that the internal bec provides 7A and the hitec 7950 only uses 6A at 7v.

So do I got a faulty servo, or a faulty internal esc?
My previous servo is a savox 1256, that one works perfect without a singel glitch with the esc.

I hope you guys can help me. And can come up with a solution without an external bec. Because the last time I used an external bec it shorted and burned my esc.

gen 2 problem
 

OK I got gen 2 as a full replacement for my gen1 when it crapped out for the third time. Ran it three weeks and it screwed up sent it in got it back and it's sat on the bench all summer. I put it in my 1/8 buggy programmed it instantly put off a 1,2,6,7 code. I know the motor is fine I bound the Rx/tx and did the synchronization sequence. Still putting off code which by the trouble shooting tips says internal ESC short. Is there anything else I can check myself or just send it in?

I've got the Gen2 tied to a 4300HD motor that I run in Pro 4 class. I was playing with the data logging in hotwire the other day for the first time. Kind of neat. Just wondering what I should be looking at on this for tuning and adjustments. I am assuming I should be looking at motor and esc temps, but how else can I take advantage of this data. Thanks for any help.

This should answer most of your questions.

http://youtu.be/69d7GvSzduM

I was doing laps with my buggy the other day when my throttle stopped working. It acted like I had reached low voltage cutoff but the pack was still fairly fresh. On my RX8 Gen 2, the first two and last two lights are blinking. That is supposed to mean wrong motor selected but nothing changed as far as I can see.

Once I brought it inside where it's quiet I hear a metallic clicking noise and I can feel the pinion gear move very slightly every time it ticks. Motor is the Tekin 2050KV T8 Gen 2.

Any ideas before I call Tekin?

Thanks,
Chris

Take a look at all of your A B C wire connections on the motor. If all is well, get another known working brushless motor and hook it up to your esc. IF the code goes away and the esc works, you have a bad motor. If the code is still present, you need to send your esc in for repair.

What radio system is this?

My Gen 1RX8 started flashing the two lights on each end and wouldn't work just prior to the 1st qualifying heat at my local tracks recent Turkey Shoot Out (the biggest race of the year). Considering I had the Gen 1 ESC for about a year and it had served me well and also this was a big race (for me) I decided to buy a gen 2 RX8 the hobby shop had for sale for what I'd call very high retail $$$ to try and stay in the game. I was up and running by the 2nd qualifier and the motor and ESC seemed to work just fine the rest of the day. I kept telling myself way to go supporting your local hobby store as Stormer had these on sale for $165 at the time. I didn't finish where I felt I should have in the race so I decide to go practice the following week only to find that my truck with a new ESC wouldn't run, the motor was cogging heavily and wouldn't spin or run :flaming: I thought it must be a bad motor as the ESC isn't throwing any codes and the throttle & Brake led's seemed to be fine, so I headed home and took the motor apart to check things out and the rotor seemed like it was slightly rough so I order a brand new HD4300 and soldered it up tonight to find I have the same issue :flaming:. I checked the firm ware on the ESC, it is 250 and I checked all of the settings on the ESC and my Spectrum DX3S radio and recalibrated it a few times and still no luck.

Has anyone else experienced this issue and found a resolution or know how to determine if it is an ESC or motor problem? I'd really like to know if it is something simple or easy to remedy.

I bought another RX8 from Stormer and was saving it as backup for another vehicle and may install it if I have to, but think my brain would explode if anything else goes wrong...:deathstar

Sorry for the long rant, but it was a bit therapeutic to get it off my chest.:D

low voltage cutoff?
 

this is my first 4s lipo(promatch 6500mah 70c/140 burst). my question is I want to set the low voltage cutoff a little higher than 12.00v. how do I do a custom voltage cutoff with my hotwire? thanks