"Okay but the issue as it seems isnt being addressed.... that at cut off, the cells were ~3.55"

So if you checked voltage and it was at 3.55v per cell after a run (if i am reading that correctly) you have more than 9% or whatever the percentage tool thing said.
The rx8's lvc is working correctly and you have a safe, nice to the lipo cut off set.

Put the percentage checker thing up on the shelf and make it a conversation piece.

Well you have all the information you need to figure this one out my man, seems like you would know how. ~3.5 * 5 = ~17 volts so thats the cut off, you get the picture. 5s battery

other part- actual voltage was ~17 just as the ESC was set to cut off at; each cell was about 3.5 and 3.6 on avg. when cut off but the capacity reading (percentage bar) for each cell was almost dead- about 9% left.

Dont get why you are disregarding a very important tool we should all be taking advantage of watch this: Let me make my issue visual for everyone in this video. You can see him cycle through each cell which shows each cells voltage and capacity. PLEASE START WATCHING AT 1:11

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEdqXJ6ZYW0

And 1 more key thing. My batteries always fully charge perfectly fine and always check out just right on the cell reader and always accurate after a charge. After a full charge it always reads around 4.2 per cell and around 98-99% capacity for total V and per cell V. Its the crazy low discharged capacity percentage reading im getting for each cell and total V after a run when i hit cut off. And heres the icing on the cake: at cut off, per cell voltage and total voltage are correct on the reader! So the lvc and ESC are working correctly, but capacity reading is almost dead. :weird:

I am ok with not figuring it out, 3.55 x 5 is not 17 but I guess you are using 3.5 per cell LVC to get to 17.5v? Confused but it doesn't matter and I will sleep well even if I don't figure it out.

If you are reading a 3.5v average after a run, you're good. Done, move on to the next task in preparing for the next heat.

If you want to continue using your special tool that everyone needs but is obviously incorrect, go ahead. It seems to frustrate you and IMO there is not need for frustration or WTF moments, as I said, put that reader thing up on the shelf and just check your packs actual voltage.

unless the reader is cooking lunch and cleaning the cars at the end of the day, maybe some disco lights for the pits... then maybe it is of value.

Your answer is in that video. 80% capacity doesn't = 80% voltage. When he plugs in the second battery and the capacity is 20-30%, voltage is around 7.6v.

Okay cool, so its even more confusing now LOL So can anyone provide whats needed such as a solution for knowing I will not go over 80% for each run?

Thats cool ur okay with that shows a real strive to help LOL doesnt matter its only a battery and an rc car but i dont want to cook the battery after only 2 runs on it thats all. I started using approximation signs for you thought you'd catch it. Doesnt matter exactly what the values are. I check my voltage with that reader!!lol so its not going to see any shelves hahaha. You sound pretty stupid in saying that about a great tool. yes something with mine mite be wrong but thousands use it with great success and I have been up until this 1 batt. It checks voltage and capacity. Do you have a better way? Mite be a good time to share. I hope ur batts blow! lol j/k thanks for the try tho

Why even bother with percentage? Just check the actual cell voltage and you'll have all you need to know.

If you throw attitude, you will get attitude and no help which is why I didn't care by that point if I figured out your dilemma with a useless tool (IMO)

Which brought us to #1 in bold.

#2 in bold... I already shared my way of doing it and Ty just reiterated it.

Your battery will hold most of its voltage right up until the point that it's reaching the end of its capacity. Then there is a steep cliff of voltage loss at the end. No need to worry

It sounds to me like you have a good battery pack with high discharge capability. Better battery packs will hold voltage longer without as much voltage sag under the load of acceleration, so theoretically a good battery will have a lower percentage of capacity left when it hits the LVC. It sounds like you have a good battery that holds its voltage right to the end before it finally drops enough under load of acceleration to trigger the LVC . If this is your issue, then stop worrying about it. The percentage on your cell meter is meaningless and purely an estimate based on some calculation in the device. Just worry that your battery doesn't go below the set cutoff and it should be fine. And it sounds like you are fine.

GO race!! You are good to go.

If you are really worried about it then bump the LVC up a little higher.

If your battery is a 5000mah, the thumb rule is that you should not use more than 80% of it's capacity which equals 4000mah. When you charge your battery back up, your charger would normally tell you how much you put back in.

Thanks so much cokemaster, vegetable and jhautz you guys actually know about what you are talking about unlike some others on here that cant give explanations. So it looks like I could even drop the v per cell for cut off. What do you guys suggest 3.3 per cell? Thank you

p.s. its a Hyperion G3 4200 5s 35c

I did run the settings at 3.3V for quite a while without any Problem.

There is no risk doing that as you will reach that voltage under load condition and the ESC does shut down at that point in time.

When you measure it later on under no load condition you will see everything is fine.

I have an rx8 and t8 1900kv gen 2 combo for sale if anyone is interested.

sorry for the shameless plug .