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is timing profile 1 with the new firmware (uses timing adjustments out of 30, rather than the previous 100) equivalent to 5?
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Originally Posted by ta_man
(Post 12962863)
Aside from Randy's suggestion about tip size, you should also make sure you are using sufficient flux. I use a weller 4033s which is just a simple iron, not a fancy soldering station. It has a big chisel tip and an 1100 deg operating temperature. Some may say this is too hot, but with proper preparation and use of flux I can solder a Tekin RX-8 terminal in about a second. No matter how hot the iron is, you only have to get the joint hot enough to flow the solder, so the faster you can transfer heat into the joint you are making, the less time that heat has to get to other parts of the electronics you are working on. This is what the joints look like (no excess solder and a perfect fit of the wire in the slot of the post):
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12967972)
i used the car again today and geared down, seems like the motor has burnt out, motor temps were like 122 C after 2/3 laps, and there would be a sudden loss of power from half way into the throttle, on top of this the motor seemed to cog quite bad.
and after the 2/3 laps the esc went into thermal shutoff (first time I've EVER thermal-ed an rx8), temps were like 105 C. just want to know how i go about diagnosing the problem? |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12968354)
is timing profile 1 with the new firmware (uses timing adjustments out of 30, rather than the previous 100) equivalent to 5?
1 = Stock 2 = 15* 3 = 25* 4 = 35* 5 = 45* 6&7 are user customized profiles. |
any advice Randy?
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Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12974732)
any advice Randy?
So new: actual timing Old: % of 30 ie; 10 on TA was 3 degrees. |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12967972)
i used the car again today and geared down, seems like the motor has burnt out, motor temps were like 122 C after 2/3 laps, and there would be a sudden loss of power from half way into the throttle, on top of this the motor seemed to cog quite bad.
and after the 2/3 laps the esc went into thermal shutoff (first time I've EVER thermal-ed an rx8), temps were like 105 C. just want to know how i go about diagnosing the problem? |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 12974922)
If you've updated to 249(latest) the timing profiles now show actual timing. The older software used to show a percentage of 30 degrees.
So new: actual timing Old: % of 30 ie; 10 on TA was 3 degrees. one other thing, about my motor (refer to previous posts), should i tear it down or re-solder the joints? or could it be a problem with the esc? |
Ok guys I need help from the Tekin rx8 brainiacs. I am going to try to get all the info I have in this note so bare with me Here is my issue -
It seems I am having a polarity issue but I know from reading info online Tekin components are built to not have polarity issues but here is the problem I have tried 3 different motors and all have produced the same results. When I go to push the throttle I have more speed in reverse plus the brake is working in the wrong direction. Now I can switch two of the wires and everything is fine when I disconnect the sensor wire but once back in place the motor doesn't work properly. Now I am sure it's a easy fix but I can't figure it out. I have plugged it up to hot wire reset everything up loaded hew software and still has the issues |
Try reversing the throttle on the radio. The motor can be reversed with the hot wire if that dose not work.
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Originally Posted by rcrookie101
(Post 12987409)
Ok guys I need help from the Tekin rx8 brainiacs. I am going to try to get all the info I have in this note so bare with me Here is my issue -
It seems I am having a polarity issue but I know from reading info online Tekin components are built to not have polarity issues but here is the problem I have tried 3 different motors and all have produced the same results. When I go to push the throttle I have more speed in reverse plus the brake is working in the wrong direction. Now I can switch two of the wires and everything is fine when I disconnect the sensor wire but once back in place the motor doesn't work properly. Now I am sure it's a easy fix but I can't figure it out. I have plugged it up to hot wire reset everything up loaded hew software and still has the issues |
I have the hot wire in which I already plugged up but the question is where do you switch the motor over. I went through every part of that thing and did not locate it. I read that is how you do it but never found how to do it because all of the screen shots are the old versions. The new version just doesn't have a little box you can check like the old version at least I did not locate that box
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Never mind I found it - it is in a different place and I was distracted by the fan auto on and fan always on boxes. Thanks guys
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upgrade to gen2 not working
Hi,
Has anyone had issues with updating or applying new settings? Mine just runs and runs, eventually have to kill it. I let it try and update for 10 min. Also, tried changing settings, but that hangs too. Any ideas, maybe a reset? Could be my laptop as its my wifes work laptop. IDK looking for answers. thx! Nevermind: I un-wrapped the wire from my rubber band and all is working. |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 12975739)
ok thanks Randy!
one other thing, about my motor (refer to previous posts), should i tear it down or re-solder the joints? or could it be a problem with the esc? |
Ordered the rs gen2& 8.5 motor. My lhs gets it from horizon. Will the necessary wires come with it and what type of solder should I use.
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