Fix your own esc
#3
For instance I have a tekin rs that went bad. when I was racing and the positive bullet connector came out and I'm guessing it touched the negative connector which was still plugged in. Now I don't have any throttle. Is there a specific part that goes bad? Is this fixable without a whole new board of some kind?
The only reason I ask is that their service charge went up to $97 plus shipping and I could easily find a used one for that. Any help would be appreciated.
The only reason I ask is that their service charge went up to $97 plus shipping and I could easily find a used one for that. Any help would be appreciated.
#4
$97 is the cost of replacement. if it still powers up im sure it can still be repaired.
Replacement
(Does not reflect upgrade or trade-in cost)
B1, B1R $34 Pro4 $83
Mini Rage $46 SC4X $85
FX & FXR $61 T8 Buggy Motor $92
FX & FXR Pro $75 T8 Truggy Motor $96
RS $97 Redline Motor $61
RS Pro $123 Gen2 Redline $67
RX8 $123 Crawler Motor $33
Hotwire $18 Crawler Pro Motor $51
ROC412 $83
Minimum Repair Cost
$25 Basic Service (i.e. Plug, Wires, Case)
$40 RX8 (Control Board, Case)
$60 RX8 (Power Board, Case)
Replacement
(Does not reflect upgrade or trade-in cost)
B1, B1R $34 Pro4 $83
Mini Rage $46 SC4X $85
FX & FXR $61 T8 Buggy Motor $92
FX & FXR Pro $75 T8 Truggy Motor $96
RS $97 Redline Motor $61
RS Pro $123 Gen2 Redline $67
RX8 $123 Crawler Motor $33
Hotwire $18 Crawler Pro Motor $51
ROC412 $83
Minimum Repair Cost
$25 Basic Service (i.e. Plug, Wires, Case)
$40 RX8 (Control Board, Case)
$60 RX8 (Power Board, Case)
#5
For instance I have a tekin rs that went bad. when I was racing and the positive bullet connector came out and I'm guessing it touched the negative connector which was still plugged in. Now I don't have any throttle. Is there a specific part that goes bad? Is this fixable without a whole new board of some kind?
The only reason I ask is that their service charge went up to $97 plus shipping and I could easily find a used one for that. Any help would be appreciated.
The only reason I ask is that their service charge went up to $97 plus shipping and I could easily find a used one for that. Any help would be appreciated.
#6
Depends on how well your electronics background is. Odds are you wont be able to fix it yourself.
You will need to open up the case and start looking for obvious damage first. If nothing looks burnt, you will need to use a multimeter to find out whats been blown, which can be a PITA. Start looking at the MOSFETs first, trying to find any that have a dead short or really low resistance. From there, you will also want to check the gate drives, as they are likely to get taken out as well.
I do this stuff for a living, and I dont even bother anymore. Its not worth my time to try and fix it, I just buy a new/used one.
You will need to open up the case and start looking for obvious damage first. If nothing looks burnt, you will need to use a multimeter to find out whats been blown, which can be a PITA. Start looking at the MOSFETs first, trying to find any that have a dead short or really low resistance. From there, you will also want to check the gate drives, as they are likely to get taken out as well.
I do this stuff for a living, and I dont even bother anymore. Its not worth my time to try and fix it, I just buy a new/used one.
#7
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 875
From: Round Lake, IL
I fix consumer electronics for a living, like The Captain, and I'll echo that without specialized tools, it's difficult.
Even with the tools, it can be hard to resolve things like a blown FET in an ESC, as most of them don't seem to protect the microprocessor very well, and if that goes, you are dead in the water, as code isn't available to reprogram them.
I've fixed a few ESC's that friends have blown up (generally exploded caps from reverse polarity or shorted FET's), and while it was easy for me (I have the tools) they were all rather dicey. I've yet to see an ESC with good heat/fire/damage resistant PCB materials used. It's all the same junk consumer stuff. The best I've seen out of them was at least the Hobbywing ESC's, as they tend to be thicker then the rest and a little more durable. Note; I've never seen the inside of a Tekin, so I can't comment.
Let the service departments of those companies handle it, or buy a used one.
Even with the tools, it can be hard to resolve things like a blown FET in an ESC, as most of them don't seem to protect the microprocessor very well, and if that goes, you are dead in the water, as code isn't available to reprogram them.
I've fixed a few ESC's that friends have blown up (generally exploded caps from reverse polarity or shorted FET's), and while it was easy for me (I have the tools) they were all rather dicey. I've yet to see an ESC with good heat/fire/damage resistant PCB materials used. It's all the same junk consumer stuff. The best I've seen out of them was at least the Hobbywing ESC's, as they tend to be thicker then the rest and a little more durable. Note; I've never seen the inside of a Tekin, so I can't comment.
Let the service departments of those companies handle it, or buy a used one.
#10
I fix consumer electronics for a living, like The Captain, and I'll echo that without specialized tools, it's difficult.
Even with the tools, it can be hard to resolve things like a blown FET in an ESC, as most of them don't seem to protect the microprocessor very well, and if that goes, you are dead in the water, as code isn't available to reprogram them.
I've fixed a few ESC's that friends have blown up (generally exploded caps from reverse polarity or shorted FET's), and while it was easy for me (I have the tools) they were all rather dicey. I've yet to see an ESC with good heat/fire/damage resistant PCB materials used. It's all the same junk consumer stuff. The best I've seen out of them was at least the Hobbywing ESC's, as they tend to be thicker then the rest and a little more durable. Note; I've never seen the inside of a Tekin, so I can't comment.
Let the service departments of those companies handle it, or buy a used one.
Even with the tools, it can be hard to resolve things like a blown FET in an ESC, as most of them don't seem to protect the microprocessor very well, and if that goes, you are dead in the water, as code isn't available to reprogram them.
I've fixed a few ESC's that friends have blown up (generally exploded caps from reverse polarity or shorted FET's), and while it was easy for me (I have the tools) they were all rather dicey. I've yet to see an ESC with good heat/fire/damage resistant PCB materials used. It's all the same junk consumer stuff. The best I've seen out of them was at least the Hobbywing ESC's, as they tend to be thicker then the rest and a little more durable. Note; I've never seen the inside of a Tekin, so I can't comment.
Let the service departments of those companies handle it, or buy a used one.
Thanks Drake, I forgot to mention the capacitors as well. That one is relatively easy to diagnose and fix. Look at the ends, and see if they are bulging or if they are split down the side. If they are, you can try and replace them with at least the same rating. You can always go higher on the ratings if the replacement part will fit. You probably get a 50-50 chance of fixing it if its obvious that the capacitors are blown.
#12
#13
That doesn't matter, the replacement cost gets you a brand new ESC. The warranty period covers manufacturer defects, this case wouldn't fall under that catagory since it was a bullet connector that caused a short. You won't find a brand new ESC for the same price we offer under our replacement program.
#15
That doesn't matter, the replacement cost gets you a brand new ESC. The warranty period covers manufacturer defects, this case wouldn't fall under that catagory since it was a bullet connector that caused a short. You won't find a brand new ESC for the same price we offer under our replacement program.




