Hi guys

I have an rc18t2 right from the start it was a pain in the ***. But I guess every rc breaks. Well I sold the reedy system for a castle creations system with more power. I was unaware at the store that I bought this limited edition cm26 brushless motor twice as big as the other motors. I could barely fit it in this truck with many mods. I am sure I moded this truck more than anybody on this forum. Not joking. I am sure I broke every rule that we have at our racing club. Well I am happy because it has more power than everybody else's. more power equals more fun. lol

Well my problem is my mamba micro pro thinks my lipos are below the voltage per cell. I have set it to stop at 3.2v per cell. It stopped at 4.0v per cell and 3.7v per cell and also at 3.4v pr cell. Nobody understand what is going wrong. I have the top of the notch lipos. I emailed castle and they came back with a lousy response and said that it is a high powerful motor and will drain the voltage down and when ever you shut it off the voltage will go up. Well I don't understand that because I have ran that truck before that race right till it went in voltage protection at 3.2v per cell and it worked perfectly so the response was then false.
I just had a race yesterday and I had a fully charged lipo and I checked the voltage on everybodies charger at the race and it showed the lipo was at 4.25v per cell. I ran the truck for less than 2 minutes and the truck just sits there getting hit by every car waiting for me to come get my truck. I look inside and what do I see voltage protection kicking in again. This problem seems to worsen each race day.

Castle says that there voltage protection is indestructible. Well I think I just destroyed it doing normal racing. If they think it is still my lipos. I am going to be selling this truck because I can't afford to put any new stuff in it. A fourteen year old kid tries to succeed in this hobby.

My truck are I. The best condition they could be in. I race them just about every 2 weeks and they still look like new condition. I pay for all my trucks and parts myself with no help. I need help solving this problem. Please

You did not say what kv motor you put in ?
You may not of used the right gearing, try using the smallest pinion and biggest spur and see if that helps.

6800kv brushless cm26 motor.

I am using the smallest pinion which is a 13t and I think it is 60t spur it is the stock one you get with rtr rc18t2.

Interesting...Castle says a 15T pinion is the maximum size that fits that CM26 in an RC18T. Also, what exactly are you running for batteries? Perhaps they're not enough for this motor.

i know i was able to find as small as 13t pinion at my lhs.

i am using a 2s lipo 1800mah with a 35-40c

This may be a dumb question but are you sure it isn't some sort of thermal protection kicking in? I say this because those kits are notorious for not rolling smoothly. There can be binding from the front gearbox being misaligned. (This was a problem with early kits and rtr's that associated dealt with but you could have an old one.)

Also the front belt can rub on the motor pinion causing drag. The fix to that is to mount the motor in the lower holes but then you run into having to make it fit in the lower holes. I cut up my chassis to fit a novak three-80 motor. My original reedy motor got way too hot no matter what pinion I ran. It takes a good bit of careful running and checking to loosen everything up without overheating the motor.

Also you said you race it. Is there anybody at the track that could swap motors or the esc with you? Maybe try to isolate the problem to one thing? I feel your pain on this. I've spent a long time messing with my 18b2 to finally get it right. It spent probably a year sitting on a shelf because I gave up on it for a while.

no i dont. i have a fan running on the motor with a heat sink. making the motor at about 110 and the esc below 100.

but i did have that problem with belt hitting pinion. my fix was i dremeled the heck out of the pinion and the chassis to put the motor as low as possible. that truck is the smoothest thing you would every drive. took me hours and hours of figuring out how to fix that problem and a lot of testing.

i would like to try that but no body at the track has any extras. yes i know took me weeks as a fourteen year old how to fix the problem. a lot of planning and many hundreds close to a thousand on this truck.

but after all the hard work i have the best handling truck smoothest truck. my truck is amazing. but now i have this problem and just ruins all my racing.

sounds like it may be browning out. what are you doing when it cuts? end of a technical section? front straight wheelies? do you have a cap on the esc?