Yes got it fixed thanks. Should be 100C but that is the factory claimed spec or market spec so it's not a real rate.

Just want to chime in about my experience with SMC Batteries and Danny. Danny has gone out of his way to answer all of my questions in detail with accurate testing to back it all up. He even went far beyond that to help me understand things I would have never even asked about and why they are important. When I ordered I received the batteries I purchased within a day of my order (I live close).

Now onto the batteries. I've been running the 4S 6500 Lipos in my E Buggy and after 10 minute mains with average laps in the high 40's, the batteries only take between 3600 and 4000 mah when re-charging . Punch across the entire main is consistent the batteries seem to run the same cycle after cycle. I have about 50 Cycles on 2 4S packs. I've run Nanotech's in the past, and the Losi Lipo Batteries and these have them beat hands down for the price and performance gain. If your on the fence buy and you will see.

6570-4S2P packs back in stock.

Today I was asked by a racer when our 4670-2S2P shorty packs with proper 4600mAh would be in stock as he wants to use 2 of these packs in a 1/8th scale car to save some weight. I informed this guy that I thought that the higher IR of a lower mAh pack combined with being close to dump in a 10 minute race meant the packs wouldn't hold up well. He told me that he did notice his packs weren't lasting very long which confirms my theory.

I personally think ROAR should make racer friendly rules and hope someone has some say with ROAR and can make them do changes to the rules.

Here is what I think they should consider. Take all popular 1/8th cars and weigh them with a regular 4S-6500 which is close to the maximum mAh allowed to still pass shipping regulations as a small Lipo. Then make the minimum weight be the heaviest car using regular electronics. This way everyone can enjoy using regular size packs and have great cycle life and not worry about dropping weight.

While I'm at it I might as well recommend a change in the 4WD SC class. Race lengths should be cut down to not use up so much of the battery or allow the use of 3S and 4S as using 550 size 4 pole motors with a small 2S pack makes no sense and is way to hard on the packs.

We could always keep the rules the same and everyone can just buy more packs which also works for me. LOL

Danny, as I alluded to in my email this morning, there are a few cars that can only bet setup to run 2-2s packs. It's not necessarily weight saving so much as is it balancing the car. Here is just one example...

What is the maximum height allowed in these style cars ?

I have no problems with dual pack setups even if I feel the design isn't optimal for the packs but I think trying to save weight with smaller packs just adds more battery issues in my opinion and this maybe healthy for battery guys like me it's not racer friendly.

I know as a racer you and others want to get the CG and weight as low as possible but to me when it starts creating issues with cycle life it makes no sense.

What car is that?

Durango DEX408 as you can see the name of the pic file in the email notification to your post.

Also having more weight then less tend to add better grip, having a light or short pack seem create rear traction issues.

FYI, ROAR Race lengths for 1/10th are 6 minutes. It's tracks creating 10 minutes mains on their own causing the problems on that end.

Wasn't aware that 10 minutes was not a ROAR race length. Sorry.

ROAR does decide the minimum weight ? Really think this needs to get looked at before everyone thinks a 4000mAh pack is needed to be competitive. Would be very easy to make the weight higher so all cars with normal packs and electronics could make weight with no lightweight parts.

Truth be told Danny Losi and some others did it to themselves by making tanks instead of racebred machines. I have an SCTE and when I weighed my Losi 8ight then my SCTE they were almost identical weights minus the battery, both had RX8 esc's in them the motor in the 8ight was bigger and I think where the little bit of weight difference was, you can put the Losi on a diet with some lightened parts, the MIP chassis kit drops it down by 1/2 pound.....LOL, associated has a nice and it is like 1 1/2 to 2lbs lighter. we race 5 minute heats and a 7 minute main where I race in the summer, they wanted to go to 10 minutes last year but I protested, my battery would have not like me, of course it wasn't an SMC pack like I will be running from now on...LOL

Maybe I am missing something?....... the packs used in the Durango I posted are not shorty packs. Those are standard 2s sticks. Wouldn't the weight be CLOSE to that of a single 4s? The only difference would be the case right?

But on the SCTE and Short Course topic you are exactly correct, ROAR somewhat missed the boat although as already mentioned Losi somewhat did it to themselves (and us) 3s for the 4wd class would be optimal IMO.

This is a legitimate decision I am weighing for when I buy a 1/8 Buggy. If a single 4s pack is better than 2- 2s packs in series than I may base my buggy choice on that alone.

I am not sure how they come to that weight. I know it is 3200 grams. To be honest it can easily be done by manufacturers to make that weight or below without lightened parts. Mugen has done it and I watched at the fuel nats this summer, my sons truggy completely stock with no upgrades still come in underweight. In my opinion, in the 1/8th electric world today, lightweight is not your friend. It results in more wheel spin and less transfer of power to the ground and forward movement. I can send an email to see how they came up with this number.

I took Danny up on the at cost price for testing the new 6500 60C 4s packs. Gave me a shipping price this afternoon. I sent the paypal and just got my tracking notification through ups. Its arriving tomorrow! Now I know that I am relatively close being in South Jersey but that was impressive to say the least.

Danny I mentioned in the e-mail I sent to you about break in but I want to get your thoughts. I break in my packs as follows. Charge at 1C(I always charge at 1C), Discharge at 1/2C to 3.7V per cell. Charge, Discharge 1C (do this 2x). Charge, Discharge at 2C (do this 2x). Take the pack out in the street and run a nice easy pack under some load and stop after about 5 minutes. Charge and monitor how much mah go back into pack. Go out and blast around with more little more with harder pulls on the trigger but take it to about 8 minutes. Charge and monitor and then go race it. Thoughts on this process? And I keep my LVC set to 3.4v per cell on the ESC.
By the way running a 5000 45C 4s pack last year I was able to get almost 18 minutes of run time on my Rc8.2 with a Orion Vortex 1750Kv sensorless.
Can't wait to run this new pack and give Danny and everyone else the full race review on sunday night.

This may sound strange but I have never broken in a pack. I take it and do a full blown discharge on it but all my pack use is done for testing purposes. I have never messed around with trying softer cycles at first so I can't comment on that. I know allot about packs and cells but have never really tested the difference between soft cycling and hard cycling on a new pack. I think allot of this comes back from the early days of Lipos when IR was high and maybe a few easy cycles helped but the IR has dropped allot in the recent years so I'm not sure if this still applies.