Help!! servo glitching
#1
I have a MT-4 radio with the 461 rec. I have a savox 1256 on the steering and a 1258 on the brake/throttle on my RC8.2 nitro. The issue is when I drive it the steering starts acting fun. Doesn't want to turn, or the steering starts going right to left by itself while on the gas, but turns fine when setting still. The pack shows over 6 volts and is fully charged. Do I need a glitchbuster? Just need some help please. Big race in a week in a half. Thanks for all advice and help
#4
Since when do we reccomend glitch busters for nitro!???? Try your steering servo in your throttle slot in your receiver to see if it still happens... Could be servo or receiver it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY your battery.
#5
I JUST went through this same issue. To get smart on what MAY be happening do a search for "brown out".
Here is what I looked at:
Switch: Was running KO switch 2 - changed to a JR conventional switch. Did NOT fix issue.
Radio system: Was running Futaba 4pk and the 604 and 604 receivers. Heard Futaba receivers are vulnerable to over heating. Was very fortunate to get picked up by RadioPost as a team driver so replaced ALL that gear. did not fix the issue.
Servos: Was running HITEC Hi Voltage 7940 and 7955's. Again, due to RadioPost deal, changed servos to high voltage RadioPost. MAY have fixed issue because I also changed batteries.
Battery: Was running Protec lipo and rev tech lipo. The issue was worse w the revtech battery (start glitching after 12-15 mins of running.) Asked max amps build two receiver lipo batteries. MAY have fixed the problem.
I switched back to the KO Switch 2 and ran all the new gear this past weekend w NO issues. In the final analysis, had I not been picked up by radioPost, the first thing I would have changed was the battery. As someone stated, the issue, at least in case, wass that your demand is greater than the supply. Although you still show 6v, the power requirement for servos that are turning AND throttle/brake at the same time is greater than the max burst discharge rate of your battery.
However, don't over look your switch. Blow it out w some compressed air or, if you can, replace.
These are just notes from having experiencing this nightmare for the past 2 months.
Good luck!!!
Here is what I looked at:
Switch: Was running KO switch 2 - changed to a JR conventional switch. Did NOT fix issue.
Radio system: Was running Futaba 4pk and the 604 and 604 receivers. Heard Futaba receivers are vulnerable to over heating. Was very fortunate to get picked up by RadioPost as a team driver so replaced ALL that gear. did not fix the issue.
Servos: Was running HITEC Hi Voltage 7940 and 7955's. Again, due to RadioPost deal, changed servos to high voltage RadioPost. MAY have fixed issue because I also changed batteries.
Battery: Was running Protec lipo and rev tech lipo. The issue was worse w the revtech battery (start glitching after 12-15 mins of running.) Asked max amps build two receiver lipo batteries. MAY have fixed the problem.
I switched back to the KO Switch 2 and ran all the new gear this past weekend w NO issues. In the final analysis, had I not been picked up by radioPost, the first thing I would have changed was the battery. As someone stated, the issue, at least in case, wass that your demand is greater than the supply. Although you still show 6v, the power requirement for servos that are turning AND throttle/brake at the same time is greater than the max burst discharge rate of your battery.
However, don't over look your switch. Blow it out w some compressed air or, if you can, replace.
These are just notes from having experiencing this nightmare for the past 2 months.
Good luck!!!
#6
The most confusing thing is all the servos, battery, switch, rx is brand new. Does not have 30 minutes of run time on it. Never had any issues before. would the glitchbuster help keep the power constant to help the servos? This issue is driving me nuts.
#7
This drove me nuts for 2 months b/c all my gear was working and then it started doing the same stuff.
I would also check the wires to make sure you there are no tears or exposed wires that are touching the chassis causing momentary short.
Lastly, I've had brand new gear go bad after a 5 minute run. It's unfortunate, but a reality.



