Motor Wire Question
#1
So my wires that connect the Motor and the ESC are a little bit short. Recently got a new buggy, so it completely changed the configuration. Darn Hot bodies
. Anyways, my dad got some wires that are almost the same as the wires on my motor. Do you guys think i can cut the wires on my motor, and just solder in new wires and connect that with my bullet connectors? Will i lose any power doing that? Thanks! Any tips would be appreciated.
. Anyways, my dad got some wires that are almost the same as the wires on my motor. Do you guys think i can cut the wires on my motor, and just solder in new wires and connect that with my bullet connectors? Will i lose any power doing that? Thanks! Any tips would be appreciated.
#2
Hey Wheelie,
I think I am understanding you correctly. The existing wires are now too short and you need to make them longer? Then yes, I'd un-solder the existing motor wires, solder in new, longer wires and make your connections as needed. I've done this with almost all ESC/Motor combinations I have had. Typically, I always eliminate the ESC to Motor bullet connectors in the process and hard wire direct (eliminating one potential problem).
Depending on the motor and ESC amp draw, you will want to use the correct guage wire. Typically 12 gauge is what is used. You will want to use a flexible "wet noodle" type of wire, not your common Home Depot wire which is too stiff. The wire lengths should be sufficient to allow for chassis flex, handling, etc. No need to make them too long, but also don't make them too short. Route the wiring through the chassis to protect the wiring as much as you can.
You will want to use a pretty hot soldering iron (I'd suggest 45 watt min. -- read up on the soldering sticky on this forum). Is this set up brushless? If so, you need to be careful and wire from ESC "A" to Motor "A" ("B" to "B" and "C" to "C"). Most new ESCs/Motors come with Blue/Yellow/Orange wiring. I typically replace these with one color but take my time to insure A is connected to A, etc.
Some ESCs (Tekin RS and RX8 series for example) have soldering posts to connect to. These are a bit easier to work with when changing wire. Other ESCs (Novaks for example) have factory installed wiring that is soldered into external connections on the circuit board. These are very hard to replace and somewhat risky to work on. With this type, I trim back the wires and make a simple butt splice connection, protecting it with heat shrink tubing when I'm done.
If it was my project, I'd use Novak 12 ga wire, all black. I'd eliminate the bullet connectors and hard wire direct from ESC to Motor. Once done, I'd bundle and tie off the wire group with black wire ties and call it done
There are a couple of threads here on the forum that show some amazing wiring set ups. You could browse those threads to get some ideas on how you may want to route your wiring. I wouldn't worry about making it show worthy though and focus on making it a clean and solid installation. Loose wires and bad solder connections can turn out to be not only frustrating but also very expensive!
Good luck!
I think I am understanding you correctly. The existing wires are now too short and you need to make them longer? Then yes, I'd un-solder the existing motor wires, solder in new, longer wires and make your connections as needed. I've done this with almost all ESC/Motor combinations I have had. Typically, I always eliminate the ESC to Motor bullet connectors in the process and hard wire direct (eliminating one potential problem).
Depending on the motor and ESC amp draw, you will want to use the correct guage wire. Typically 12 gauge is what is used. You will want to use a flexible "wet noodle" type of wire, not your common Home Depot wire which is too stiff. The wire lengths should be sufficient to allow for chassis flex, handling, etc. No need to make them too long, but also don't make them too short. Route the wiring through the chassis to protect the wiring as much as you can.
You will want to use a pretty hot soldering iron (I'd suggest 45 watt min. -- read up on the soldering sticky on this forum). Is this set up brushless? If so, you need to be careful and wire from ESC "A" to Motor "A" ("B" to "B" and "C" to "C"). Most new ESCs/Motors come with Blue/Yellow/Orange wiring. I typically replace these with one color but take my time to insure A is connected to A, etc.
Some ESCs (Tekin RS and RX8 series for example) have soldering posts to connect to. These are a bit easier to work with when changing wire. Other ESCs (Novaks for example) have factory installed wiring that is soldered into external connections on the circuit board. These are very hard to replace and somewhat risky to work on. With this type, I trim back the wires and make a simple butt splice connection, protecting it with heat shrink tubing when I'm done.
If it was my project, I'd use Novak 12 ga wire, all black. I'd eliminate the bullet connectors and hard wire direct from ESC to Motor. Once done, I'd bundle and tie off the wire group with black wire ties and call it done

There are a couple of threads here on the forum that show some amazing wiring set ups. You could browse those threads to get some ideas on how you may want to route your wiring. I wouldn't worry about making it show worthy though and focus on making it a clean and solid installation. Loose wires and bad solder connections can turn out to be not only frustrating but also very expensive!
Good luck!



