Turnigy TrackStar Motors
#783
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
I just raced my v2 17.5 in 1/12 last sat. and it ran great. I set it for 47* timing with the trackstar analyser and it ran relatively cool. I don't temp motors, I just do the finger test, and it wasn't hot. Thinking I'll go up a bit on the timing and drop a pinion tooth and see how it likes that for the next race. I've got a v1 17.5 that puts up just a hair better numbers at the same amps and 47* timing as well. Haven't ran them back to back yet though. I love all the motors, honestly I like the v1's better due to the price! What the v2's really have going for them is the tuning parts you can buy from HobbyKing that are stocked in the US warehouses. Tuning rotors, sensor boards, bearings, etc. Those options make the v2 worth the extra money over the v1 IMO.
#784
Tech Initiate
Ran my truck for 15-20 min tonight, it is running great. I changed the pinion from 17 to 20 and it is pretty fast now, gonna try a 21 tomorrow. Not getting even warm so I know I can push it more.
#785
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Two identical motors, the first two curves is before and after shimming the rotor up the one that revs out to 25000k is one that is new as well but obviously the rotor is weaker even though they are 'identical' on the shaft engraving.
Have seen these 21.5 motors (All stock spec V2 21.5) dyno anywhere between 95 watts and 30k rpm and very free spinning to 140 watts and 20k but the rotor feels that strong you can't free roll the car on the bench.
I think an i-gauss meter would be handy
Have seen these 21.5 motors (All stock spec V2 21.5) dyno anywhere between 95 watts and 30k rpm and very free spinning to 140 watts and 20k but the rotor feels that strong you can't free roll the car on the bench.
I think an i-gauss meter would be handy
#786
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Two identical motors, the first two curves is before and after shimming the rotor up the one that revs out to 25000k is one that is new as well but obviously the rotor is weaker even though they are 'identical' on the shaft engraving.
Have seen these 21.5 motors (All stock spec V2 21.5) dyno anywhere between 95 watts and 30k rpm and very free spinning to 140 watts and 20k but the rotor feels that strong you can't free roll the car on the bench.
I think an i-gauss meter would be handy
Have seen these 21.5 motors (All stock spec V2 21.5) dyno anywhere between 95 watts and 30k rpm and very free spinning to 140 watts and 20k but the rotor feels that strong you can't free roll the car on the bench.
I think an i-gauss meter would be handy
I've all ways been told that the notchyness when bench rolling your car may vary considerably depending on manufacturer of the motor because of the materials used to make the mag. How can this vary between two motors of the same manufacturer? Can someone step in and help me understand? My guess would be manufacturing inconsistencies. I hope I'm wrong, I'm all ready pretty much sold on the Turnigy motors.
#787
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Hey Guys, i haven't read through this whole thread yet, so if this has been asked before, let me know, i'll delete it.
1- The V1 vs the V2 motors debate, what is the end result? I'm looking for a USGT motor that's 21.5.
2- how do you shim the motors? (not how to open the motors and put shims) but do you move the rotor more towards the rear? or front? or try to aim inbetween the magents on the can? How do you set that correctly?
1- The V1 vs the V2 motors debate, what is the end result? I'm looking for a USGT motor that's 21.5.
2- how do you shim the motors? (not how to open the motors and put shims) but do you move the rotor more towards the rear? or front? or try to aim inbetween the magents on the can? How do you set that correctly?
#788
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Different brands have tighter tolerances in the manufacturing process than others, a lot of factors influence a magnets strength and without an i-gauss meter (which I am still looking for) it's hard to tell precisely but given its a relatively cheap motor I am not surprised there is a large variance between a good and not so good motor. That said even a "not so good" Trackstar V2 I have seen is pushing better numbers than a few of the dearer motors I have seen.
As for shimming. Trial and error, remove the brass spacers on the rotors, install smaller shims and dyno each time to see the effect. There's no absolute answer, it's trial and error and tedious as all hell, you can spend hours using a $170 Eagle Racing Dyno, RC Crew Chief software and a laptop going through a bag of shims to get a result. Some motors it does little, some it can be up to a 3-4% gain. I do it because that sort of thing interests me, but will it win you a race? Maybe if you never crash and hit every apex perfectly every time.
As for shimming. Trial and error, remove the brass spacers on the rotors, install smaller shims and dyno each time to see the effect. There's no absolute answer, it's trial and error and tedious as all hell, you can spend hours using a $170 Eagle Racing Dyno, RC Crew Chief software and a laptop going through a bag of shims to get a result. Some motors it does little, some it can be up to a 3-4% gain. I do it because that sort of thing interests me, but will it win you a race? Maybe if you never crash and hit every apex perfectly every time.
#789
So V1 or V2 for USGT?
#791
Tech Regular
Can the V2's have their bearings replaced easily: without carefully tapping the baby sensor-side bearing out? I broke one V1 sensor board doing that already (of 2 bearing replacements): and would like something more straightforward.
#793
Apologies if already answered. Running 21.5t on a medium technical track. Using the v1 motor.
What's the sweet spot for timing and FDR? Currently got a couple of pinions for around 3.5 FDR ~
What's the sweet spot for timing and FDR? Currently got a couple of pinions for around 3.5 FDR ~
#795
Can anyone answer this question ? I would like to know myself !