I'll definitely take a closer look at the leads, but if I'm getting strong brakes holding the car in my hand would that not be affected if the leads to theccapacitor were not connected correctly?

Here are some close up pics of the capacitor leads, seems ok to me. There are some kinks in the leads caused by the angle required to mount the capacitor on the B5M, who knows if there are broken inside...

Having same issue, no brakes basically. Rolls to a stop.

Mines gone back to the retailer who will perform some initial analysis then they said it would go to LRP for full testing. As soon as I get a response on what the problem is/was ill let you know

Just thought id let everyone know that i put a new novak gtb3 esc in the buggy and still the same issue...tried my other almost new motor...still the same issue.

Im going to call the retailer and ask them to send it back to me. I still cant figure out what the problem is. Changed motors, sensor cables...bloody mistery

going to take it to the track on Friday and get a few other opinions

perhaps user issue!?!?

Have you checked your transmitter? Reset it, rebind, re-calibrate to esc?

Nat Maniac how loose is your slipper? i have found before a real loose slipper can be the cause of bad brakes....

I don't have off-road experience, so I could be way off.

Before I went full mod in my TC, I ran a 10.5 with a healthy dose of boost with a 6.5 FDR (on the low side) with a Viper. The power was fine, but brakes were garbage. Going up to a 7.5 FDR gave me far better braking performance.

-Mike

I have a Nosram Comet Evo which I believe is identical to the LRP Flow. It seemed to work fine with my 21.5 R1 Wurks motor until I reach around 70-100% throttle input. I'm not sure how to describe the problem but the motor seems to be cogging a bit as I go back and forth between 70-100% throttle input. In some cases the motor even slows down at full throttle. I've changed the sensor wire and I'm running the ESC in blinky mode with no timing. Has anyone else experienced this issue with this motor and how to fix it?

What's your timing settings on your R1 21.5?

It's at 30 degrees. I have tried different timing settings on the motor and the only time it seems to work ok is at zero timing.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MzE39EdYvnc

This video might be of use when it comes to setting the R1's timing.

Thanks for the link to the video. Unfortunately it did not help with solving this issue as it does it at all timing settings. I soldered an Orca RX2 motor to the ESC and noticed it does the same thing so I think it's an issue with the ESC and not the motor.

Thanks for the link, nice video. It shows similar readings to the motolyser.. but there are unsolved mysteries regarding the R1 motor still..

teardown and comparison between timing readings of a killshot and R1

Dear Friends

Anyone to help ... cant install driver for usb-bridge ver.2 ... WIN says it has to be certified by LRP, and it isn't. Any posibilities to install driver another way.

When I open the software and connect to the esc, and click ok, the program shuts Down (it does it also on a WIN 8.0 PC with the driver installed) ... any suggestions?

For your orientation, the program is runned in administrator mode, and the profiles on the PC has got assigned the rights to run the program also.

Best wishes; Jens