New KO Propo Radio
#1666
Tech Master
"Trigger brake screws"? You mean the 2 screws (that are secured by 2 nylon nuts) to secure the position of the trigger? If over tighten up any of those screws will break something?
Logically thinking, both sides of the trigger unit cases if closed, they should not have any more room to go further when they are set in place. So if the user over tighten any of the screws on the casing should not affect anything inside no? When you say over tighten, the nut is a little stripped but can still hold pretty well (and only 1 of the 2, the other 1 is fine) just not as tight as first time around (ok this sounds a little weird now)..anyway I'm not type of a macho guy that put a lot of strength in stripping screws and complains about cheap plastics and strip screw holes. I do understand with plastic you cannot go too crazy and you should stop as soon as you "feel" it's tight enough.
I don't think you can help me because I bought this from RCmart online. Even if I send in I do not plan to send in the whole unit, maybe just the trigger unit?? how much would that cost me if you even accept this?
Logically thinking, both sides of the trigger unit cases if closed, they should not have any more room to go further when they are set in place. So if the user over tighten any of the screws on the casing should not affect anything inside no? When you say over tighten, the nut is a little stripped but can still hold pretty well (and only 1 of the 2, the other 1 is fine) just not as tight as first time around (ok this sounds a little weird now)..anyway I'm not type of a macho guy that put a lot of strength in stripping screws and complains about cheap plastics and strip screw holes. I do understand with plastic you cannot go too crazy and you should stop as soon as you "feel" it's tight enough.
I don't think you can help me because I bought this from RCmart online. Even if I send in I do not plan to send in the whole unit, maybe just the trigger unit?? how much would that cost me if you even accept this?
Yes you cannot over tighten the plastic nuts or they strip, but if they are too tight you can get the trigger assembly to bind inside the handle.
I thought you were referring to the trigger brake lever screw.
If you purchased it from RCmart then you will need to contact them for service. KO PROPO America only services items purchased in the USA.
#1667
carrotcake-
Yes you cannot over tighten the plastic nuts or they strip, but if they are too tight you can get the trigger assembly to bind inside the handle.
I thought you were referring to the trigger brake lever screw.
If you purchased it from RCmart then you will need to contact them for service. KO PROPO America only services items purchased in the USA.
Yes you cannot over tighten the plastic nuts or they strip, but if they are too tight you can get the trigger assembly to bind inside the handle.
I thought you were referring to the trigger brake lever screw.
If you purchased it from RCmart then you will need to contact them for service. KO PROPO America only services items purchased in the USA.
BTW - The power button also rattles...it's not the actual button, but it's the plastic flap that sticks out when you push the power button ON, that thing rattles. Also on the Xpansion unit, those 4 buttons, they rattle too. I tested by taking each major components apart, Master unit, Grip, Steering unit, and the LCD display. And the the unit that has 2 long rectangular plastics that are hold by the 2 alum. shafts secured by 4 C-Clips on the master unit where you slide it onto the grip unit, also rattles.
#1669
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Major kludge, but someday I'll contact KO to send me a new piece.
Jeff
#1671
anybody know the difference between KO PROPO EX-1 KIY Ver.3 Japan National version and the normal KO PROPO EX-1 Ver.3 KIY (80540)?
#1672
Tech Regular
Martin Paradis
#1673
My EX-2 has a small rattle if you shake it, it seems to just be BT1.
I changed to this from the futaba 4pls, and for me, even with the rattle, I feel the quality is better with the KO. I think it's just an ergonomics thing, but for me the feel in hand is way in front of the 4pls.
The only gripe I have is the stupid AAA's. I don't know why they didn't make an allowance to slide two 18650's in the handle and be done with it. You can get a 3400mah 18650 these days. I've ordered a couple of the tenergy 900mah lipos mentioned previously in this thread to try in the handle, if that doesn't work, the dremel is coming out.
I changed to this from the futaba 4pls, and for me, even with the rattle, I feel the quality is better with the KO. I think it's just an ergonomics thing, but for me the feel in hand is way in front of the 4pls.
The only gripe I have is the stupid AAA's. I don't know why they didn't make an allowance to slide two 18650's in the handle and be done with it. You can get a 3400mah 18650 these days. I've ordered a couple of the tenergy 900mah lipos mentioned previously in this thread to try in the handle, if that doesn't work, the dremel is coming out.
#1674
My EX-2 has a small rattle if you shake it, it seems to just be BT1.
I changed to this from the futaba 4pls, and for me, even with the rattle, I feel the quality is better with the KO. I think it's just an ergonomics thing, but for me the feel in hand is way in front of the 4pls.
The only gripe I have is the stupid AAA's. I don't know why they didn't make an allowance to slide two 18650's in the handle and be done with it. You can get a 3400mah 18650 these days. I've ordered a couple of the tenergy 900mah lipos mentioned previously in this thread to try in the handle, if that doesn't work, the dremel is coming out.
I changed to this from the futaba 4pls, and for me, even with the rattle, I feel the quality is better with the KO. I think it's just an ergonomics thing, but for me the feel in hand is way in front of the 4pls.
The only gripe I have is the stupid AAA's. I don't know why they didn't make an allowance to slide two 18650's in the handle and be done with it. You can get a 3400mah 18650 these days. I've ordered a couple of the tenergy 900mah lipos mentioned previously in this thread to try in the handle, if that doesn't work, the dremel is coming out.
To those of you who are Ex-2 owners and curious, here is my Conclusion (FINAL) and this is my first Ko Propo radio. When I was small I was always curious about their radio, they look cool and sophisticated.
Rattling Noise
- I have pretty much taken apart everything (I can probably draw an exploded view for the EX-2). But as gentle as I can be, taking out stuff multiple times is NOT ideal because I ended up breaking 1 of the wires in the trigger unit (they are very fragile (soft solder joints) and doesn't matter how gentle you are you will break 1 or two if you take out stuff many times). I re-soldered mine is good and more SOLID then original. Hopefully you won't need to remove anything after reading this post if you are concerned about rattling noise.
- In response to the Ko Propo person who replied to my rattling noise posts, the radio is not bad build, maybe they can improve on the design on how things fit together and type of material used. In my opinion, the fitting of parts together is not that good. (i.e. compared to Futaba). So this takes out 1 point out of 5
- The source of the rattling noise I have confirmed are buttons and 1 Washer. Buttons on the Xpansion unit make noise (minor), buttons on the steering unit (i.e. BT1 as I and others have mentioned) do make noise, and also the Power button do make noise (i.e it is the plastic piece that sticks out when you slide the power button is making the noise). When me and the person from Ko Propo were replying to each other, saying stuff like I had a bad build or I over tighten screws and damaged binding..etc etc were all B.S. and false (sorry, a little upset). Took me awhile to find out source of the noise from the trigger unit since it was hard to see and the noise was not loud, but you can hear it. Anyway, it's A WASHER. There is about 1.5 mm to 2 mm space for the washer to move back and forth so when you tilt / rock the unit back and forth you can hear it rattles. I used some grease to secure the washer now I don't hear it. The washer is located on the shaft that turns when you move your trigger and it's close to the casing.
Why am I so fussed about the rattling noise?
1. I want to make sure I did not get a bad build, if things are all in their place, that means it's design.
2. I don't like rattling noise in anything, just make me feel cheaply made. Anything, Real Cars.... toys, phone..etc...
I read the whole downloaded instruction and my radio is functioning fine. Response is really not bad with the 241 receiver.
Conclusion / Rating
- I don't think I had a bad unit, unless they messed up the parts and build for my unit.. functioning wise, it's okay.
- Rating 3.5/5 - -ve 1 for Build made is not good. Design on parts for fitting should be improved. (I don't hear any noise even from my old Traxxas E-Revo RTR Tx). -ve 0.5 is for battery tray, why can't they just make it the way like the Futaba 3PMX TX where you can just remove the NiMH cell battery tray and hook up a lipo with Servo lead instead of spending extra $50 USD + shipping for another battery tray part? (I like the look on the stock stand with the "hook" at the end)
- Looks good, that's why I bought more upgrades for it.
- Function and feature wise no complain, the the features and functions I need for my 1/16, 1/10, 1/8 cars,buggies,trucks, monster trucks. I don't have crawlers.
- Grip, weight and unit adjust ability are better than my Futaba radios = very good
- I have mixed feelings about this TX but maybe when I use it more I may like it more and more. Just don't move my radio to avoid hearing any loose screw like noise running inside the unit. Not a happy camper yet.
That's my take on the EX-2. Maybe I'm totally wrong and super bias, but these are just my opinions and findings. If the EX 1 is a much better radio with a much higher quality build, I should've invested another $180 or so to get that. I had a feeling this is going to happen with the EX 2... oh well...if I really do like Ko Propo maybe I will get the EX 1 or a future high end Ko Propo radio.
Made in Japan doesn't mean much for me anymore. For example, my Hakko 935 soldering iron (Made In Japan) has the secure nut that always gets loose after the gun heats up. My new Hakko FX 910 Made in Taiwan (forgot the model number too lazy to look up) do not have this problem and works flawlessly. It is all about design and build standards.
Good luck to us all on the Ko Propo TXs. Cheers, RC Noob from Toronto.
Last edited by carrotcake; 09-26-2015 at 07:43 PM.
#1675
Hi,...
Quick check.
With the 1st version of EX-1 KIY, (when it 1st launched), what do I need to change to make it a EX-1 KIY version 3 (the latest version??)
Thanks
Quick check.
With the 1st version of EX-1 KIY, (when it 1st launched), what do I need to change to make it a EX-1 KIY version 3 (the latest version??)
Thanks
#1676
Tech Regular
The grip unit change just changes the way the radio feels in your hands. Tried both and still prefer the original one, but then it's personal feeling. Both work as good, the ergonomics are just a bit different.
Can't talk on the change of firmware as I've never had mine updated and never really got an answer as to what the change did and what was different as far as feel is.
Martin Paradis
#1677
Tech Master
The version 3 came with the Expert Grip Unit which has the newer trigger assembly and the grip pad 2. Fulcrum point on how the Tx sits in your hand was changed with the grip pad 2.
In the past the trigger assembly for the expert grip was not available and you had to purchase the entire Expert Grip Unit. As of this month, the older trigger has been discontinued so KO Japan is now offering the entire trigger assembly for purchase for those that have the older trigger set up here.
#1678
Well, I just had a brand new 211 receiver die after 3 laps. Landed perfect, not even chassis slap and the car just rolled to a stop. Receiver was mounted on gyro anti vibration pad, I've used a different 211 in this buggy since I got the radio without issues.
KO support won't help, say it's tough s@#t and I should just go buy another one.
This thread lists many people that have experienced the same thing for the last 3 years or something. Clearly there is a bad batch of components or a design flaw. buyer beware I guess.
Great radio otherwise... Does anyone know if the 413 suffers the same defect? If I need to buy two 211's each time I want one, might as well be getting the 413 if its more reliable.
KO support won't help, say it's tough s@#t and I should just go buy another one.
This thread lists many people that have experienced the same thing for the last 3 years or something. Clearly there is a bad batch of components or a design flaw. buyer beware I guess.
Great radio otherwise... Does anyone know if the 413 suffers the same defect? If I need to buy two 211's each time I want one, might as well be getting the 413 if its more reliable.
#1679
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Ran my new EX-2 for the first time. Definitely a quality product. Never really noticed any 'rattling' while using the equipment as its intended.
I can understand how someone could notice it if you sit down at the bench and focus all your attention to finding the creaks and rattles, but under normal racing conditions its a non-issue for me... No more than any other radio i've used.
I chose the EX-2 intentionally over the EX-1 because it, imo, just looks so cool. And from what i understand the performance/speed is exactly the same as that of the EX-1 but without the buttons 4 & 5...
Definitely a good investment.
-O
I can understand how someone could notice it if you sit down at the bench and focus all your attention to finding the creaks and rattles, but under normal racing conditions its a non-issue for me... No more than any other radio i've used.
I chose the EX-2 intentionally over the EX-1 because it, imo, just looks so cool. And from what i understand the performance/speed is exactly the same as that of the EX-1 but without the buttons 4 & 5...
Definitely a good investment.
-O
#1680
Tech Master