I have a tekin rs and a tekin 13.5, sensored of course.
I have been racing this combo for a couple months and recently I am experiencing glitching and cutting out of power. One note I have upped the boost 45 and turbo 13.
has anyone experienced this can iI add a cap or just turn down boost?
What is a safe amount of boost and turbo. sensor wire has not come unplugged and motor temp has been below 135
thanks
Don

What's your motor's endbell timing?

Are you having 'glitching' like cogging on startup? Then followed by low horsepower? Is it intermittent or did it just stop working and won't work again?

-Eric

I would double check your sensor wire. I recently had the same issues. The problem was on and off. Sometimes the car would go and sometimes not. What it ended up being was a bad sensor wire. one of the wires was broken. The settings you mentioned shouldn't be a problem.

Take the wire off and check for a broken connection.

no endbell timing, no cogging its more like the above post. On then off, intermittent los of complete power.
I will check the wire again maybe there's a break I can't see.

I thought mine was glitching too and the problem went away for a little bit. That is until of course the main race when the car failed to launch off the start.

I could not see the problem on the car until I took the wire off and noticed the one broken wire. If you have a spare sensor wire or one on another car I would try that as its the usual problem.

Ive also been having the same issue! FT 44.1 Been running a 7.5 with my Tekin RS it also has seen temps both Motor and ESC around 150 degrees. Absobluty no boost and from what Ive been told the temps on motor are in range. But I cant recall my ESC ever getting that warm. I have also added an additional capacitor/power cap on the receiver. I seem to be able to get really close to five min main and as you said it sometimes shuts down or just feels like a spit second loss of power and then comes right back after a second or two.

Going to look at the sensor wire start with that but the motor is also first generation Novak so maybe that is also the problem. Cant remove the sensor wire!

I checked all the wires including sensor wires. Power Cap on ESC is solid BTW how does one tell if the power cap is or has gone bad. Also running an additional power cap on the receiver!

Got'cha. I am/was having an issue with one of mine where it seems to lose the sensor harness connectivity on occasion; making it stutter on start from a standstill and intermittently lose its timing boost, but not losing power completely. Made it difficult to consistently jump when it'd go in at varying speeds with the same trigger inputs... Rather annoying. I'm thinking it's something in the ESC since it does it with multiple harnesses and motors

Was just wondering if it was maybe similar to my issue so we could work together for a solution other than mailing it to Tekin for service.

Does yours retain steering control when you lose complete power?

-Eric

I had the same problem with mine! Everything is nice and cool but twice this last weekend I lost all power to the car (no throttle, no steering) and then once it was no throttle but still had steering.

All the led's were flashing (saying I lost radio contact but I was 10ft from the car....) after the race ended I left the car on and the radio right next to it and marshalled the next race. Came back and it had rearmed and was ready to go....

Any input would be great! And agreed is there any way to check on a bad cap?

Mine seems to have very short glitches but mostly it just goes dead. I don't believe I ever lose steering. I will have to check the esc lights.
I am definitely going to check sensor wire, I called around today and don't know if I can get one by sun, the last race of our series and I am ever so slightly holding a lead over 2nd and third....will see. I am tempted to go sensorless and see if that works except I love the sensor.

Yes always have steering its only the motor that cuts out!

After reading the RS drive Modes in the Tekin manual.

Gonna try and run it in duel mode. My understanding is this is how you run this ESC with out the wire harness. So either way it should run and allow me to know weather or not still having issues. It reads also if lights 5,6,7 dimly light up in sequence you have a bad wire or sensor.

Lastly if this doesnt work going to buy an 8.5. Not sure if this is an issue but running a 7.5? Maybe its getting to close to the 5.5 shutoff for the ESC. And or I could see if im having same problems with newer version of an sensor motor! This 7.5 is getting rather old " first generation". But dang the thing is fast!

But what confuses me the most even after shut off I check temps on motor and have yet to see it over 155* give or take 5*'s on error on temp gauge. I know these motors can be ran lot closer to !80* But the ESC is getting hot as well like 140*'s.

I assume you all are using electrolytic capacitors, the way to check them involves have a digital multimeter that has a capacitance scale or with a capacitance meter. The steps would go like this:

1) remove cap from car.
2) with a jumper wire or screwdriver short both leads together for a few seconds.
3) attach meter leads (with meter on capacitance scale) to the leads. Pos. to Pos. Neg. to Neg.
4) depending on the meter being used, you will get a capacitance reading in pico or micro farads.
5) compare this reading with the caps rating. Anything that is more or less than 5% from the rating, in my opinion, is a bad cap. Some will tell you 10% is ok, and might be, but I like 5%.

I'd like to add dont do step two to a large cap. Or a high voltage cap, as there can be lots of energy in a cap.

Thanks, but in the end how much are these capacitors new? Im guessing $6 to be on the safe side!? Ive spent more guessing then doing the small stuff.

Also bought a brand new Sonic 8.5 local pro's at my track run it so if you cant beat em join em! :-) No really just wanted to give it a try looks beast.

At least I could change the sensor wire and a 8.5 wont run as hot. Maybe add a fan to the ESC but never had to before on Tekin RS.

If the sensor harness bursts into flames and flies off the car completely, the thing should just lose your boost and go sensorless. Even with a 17.5 or 13.5, my system will just go into sensorless mode and not make as much horsepower compared with your boosted 'sensored-only' settings.

For some reason I just don't see the sensor harness causing the issue. Maybe a sensor board that's sending the wrong values or some type of software/hardware issue in the ESC, but the sensor harness seems like a stretch.

Just my 2 cents.

-Eric

I re soldered esc and motor also added new sensor wire.
fingers are crossed I finish the main this weekend.