Finalist

The temp sensors must be part of the sensor board? I see the Reedy Mach 2 had that feature??

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

what timing are you at and whats your gearing?

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the temp data is sent via the sensor wire. I wasn't aware the Mach 2 had a sensor, I've got one and haven't noticed a motor temp reading with it on my Hobbywing 3.1 ESC. I'll have to look into that.

Edit: Turns out it does have one, and the ESC reports it as 0 degrees when motor temp safety cutoff is disabled.

Finalist

I've tried a bunch.
On one layout that was super tight with a tight 180 that led into a triple I loved 69/28. I've never run that combo before but the guys from Fantom suggested it, and it was amazing. Temps were in the 70s - it's cold. On a new layout that feels less tight and more full throttle all the time I've settled on 72/31. Temps in the 80s. I feel this motor is out performing or equal to everything out there including Monsters. I've had a good jump in performance. Buy this motor with confidence. It is great.

Edit: timing was set by Fantom on their dyno for what they suggest. I think it is 48?? - timing goes to 60. I looked on day one, but havent touched it.

Cartman

A fair few, I get a temp reading on my hobbywing speedo for Fantom motor, not sure it correct , bit defiantly some do have it

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Man I guess a lot of people are ordering the 21.5 for the Snowbirds. I can't wait to get mine.

super excited to get this motor in my TC

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

I actually do that too. Connect the HW LCD program box to the HW esc after a run then get the readings there... esc temp and motor temp. Just as long you have your esc and motor temp cutoff settings engaged.

GG360

Hey Guys,

I have a FR1 Type M (v1) 21.5 Works Plus w/ Ultra Rotor. I am running it in USGT TC, and I run an FDR of 3.7. The motor is fast, but is only coming off at 130* after a 6 min race. Is there room to go up a couple of teeth? Or should I be happy with what I have? The car pulls hard out of the corners and is fast on the straight, but I'm just wondering if I can get a little more out of it. I read thru the thread and saw that some guys are running down to 2.9 fdr. I am running at a preset timing of 50 some degrees.

Also read that temperature may not be the best indicator of harm to the motor.

Can someone please clarify?

Thanks.

Rizen

iTrader: (3)

Ordering a v2R FR-1 17.5 Works Ultra with the Ultra select rotor. Can't wait to see how it does.

What's everyone's thoughts on the V2's vs the previous version?

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Motors are super fast! Can anyone compare fantom vs team scream, Maclean, and the latest outcropping of motors? Seem to be collectively getting faster

190mph

iTrader: (12)

I had the Type T from first release and then grabbed a V2R recently for 17.5 TC Blinky. So not direct comparison and I need to gear down a bit for this V2R, the motor is a bit softer than I would of thought, but I don't spend too much time tuning at the track like you should. I just turn up the timing to get the 6 to 6.5A range on the SkyRC Analyzer (Nick Adams method) and see what they do. Right now I am running an FDR of 4.0 in the BD7.


It is fast as I have a 1600+ rotor rating. My Type T last year had a 1455 range rotor in there.




I would buy a Type T too and probably might, but would love to get a Team Scream as JAE mentioned above and do have on the way a Maclan Team Edition MRR 17.5 coming and have the Orion Ultimate Stock and SMC 17.5 motors in the stable. Lots of money spent this winter season it is insane.


I am likely buying an insane toy to test all these out with real graphs and curves tonight.

Rizen

iTrader: (3)

I had called up Fantom, Troy walked me through what options to select for the B5M I'm setting up and going to pair the v2R with a HW XR10 Stock Spec. Hoping the car is a lot of fun/can keep it on the track.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

I just want to know the comparison with team scream, team powers as I've heard rave reviews. Have 5 fantoms that are ballistic so don't know what could be an improvement . I have a 3 run V2type R with ultra select and everything but the aluminum plates I may sell if someone wants to ping me. Ballistic fast. Have 5 motors for 1 class lol....

In any event I've found the V2r to be superior to the previous gen motors. New R runs cooler and has a little more top end for me than the previous RS. I found the previous type M to have a little more bottom end then the new V2r, at expense of a little less too end, but it's a different motor and not a fair comparison. I have not driven the v2 type t but am curious how that motor is compared to the old type M. Fantom mentioned the new type T is actually more of an updated type M and not an update of rheir former T. Hope this helps.

HuffdawgMotors

Can anyone recommend ceramic bearings for Ion 5 Pro? Thanks!

LiL CeeZ

iTrader: (23)

This is my experience. I called in an ordered the V1 based off of their recommendations for the track I run on. Got the motor (R) and soldered it up. It was a slug. I played with various gear combos and nothing worked. End of the day I took the motor out, threw it in my bag and there it sat for the past 8-10 months. Fast forward to last Saturday. A Fantom Sponsored driver was at my track. We got to BS'ing and somehow my motor came up. He wanted to take a look at it. After just pulling on the rotor he said it was built wrong and that he would rebuild it for me and get me dialed in. He re-shimmed the motor and got the rotor super close to the points on the circuit board without touching them and also took out any wobble. Put the motor back together and the rotor barely moved back and forth when he pulled on it, you could tell it was totally different. I forgot he also tested the rotor before rebuilding it..After the rebuild he hooked up the amp meter again and set it to 7.84. We tried to use the 69 spur that was already in my car but it wouldn't work with a 26 pinion. He said go to a 72/26. After one practice session on this gearing the car was ok but not quite what I was looking for as far as snappyness coming out of corners and in our rhythm section. I was looking for more torque and we all know that you need to drop a tooth to find that in most cases but he said based off of these motors that I should go up a tooth gain more wheel speed (not torque) and that would probably be the ticket. I didn't initially agree but he knows these motors very well so I put a 27 on. Boy oh boy did it make all the difference. The car became snappy where it needed to be and was ripping down the straight as well.

Then he told me to run a parma pinion and I would feel even more wheel speed which has similarities to torque. He said rule of thumb though when going to a parma pinion was to go up a tooth. I then went to a 28 and wow this thing was unreal. We have a knarly 6 pack at our track that most guys that don't get to run a lot complain about (cry babies all of them-yea I said it). If you don't get the first double right it screws you for the 2nd set if you don't have to torque/wheel spin to get you over the 2nd and bail yourself out for not being perfect. With this set up I didn't have to be perfect and I got through the rhythm section 99% of the time with no mistakes. This motor does it all and its only gonna get better according to Bill. He says after about 20 packs through it it will wake up and come alive which it started to do by the end of the night and I'm estimating that I have about 15 packs through it total. Also the temps on this thing were amazing. Running 7.84 amps at 12 minutes I only came off at 90 degrees. After my main at 7 minutes I was barely 80 degrees. No kidding the car was pulling away from people down the straight or running them down to park in their back seats.

He says that Fantom slightly d-tunes these motors from the factory, they don't want people burning up their motors in the first couple of runs. It took someone that knows whats up to get me right. My limited knowledge of motors would have had me going in the opposite direction which it did originally.

I think it was you (might have been JAE can't remember) that was asking about the T rotor and how to gear it. From what Bill says for 2 wheel buggy you have to gear it way up. He was telling me I would probably be running a 72/36. Now that's also gonna be on an "M" stator with the ultra select 1600 plus rotor which is what they put in the "T" motors works edition. I'll be able to give more info after this weekend because I'm gonna have that together for Saturday.

I was also told that the only real difference between the V1-V2 is the can has more ventilation now..If you guys are looking to get a great deal on their motors now is the time with the huge discounts going on on the V1's. If you want a "T" get it without the aluminum stuff and it's $101.00. I was also told to stay away from the aluminum stuff because it strips out so easy.

Good luck boyz