I have found this thread extremely interesting . At my local track a couple of the sponsored guys approached this same question and then tested a few diff brands speedo's for speed temp reliability /and programmability .. And in their opinion the hobbywing 120a had some of the best results . As I have been a long time tekin fanatic I was reluctant to even listen to these guys cause the 150$ speedoi bought had to be one of the best .... Or so I thought the tekin has a lot of flaws and a lot of room for improvement as I learned .. The hobbywing is just incredibly fast and easy to use and also has a program box so I don't need to lug around my laptop ..

And it's like 115$ so awesome buy for the money

I reversed the inputs on my Tekin and fried it the day before a big local race. I got a Justock so i could race but I didn't expect much. I TQ'd the first 2 rounds and qualified second by 1/2 sec.

I raced the Justock for a few weeks and put the Tekin in when it got it back. It did not feel like launched off the lines well as the Justock. Comparing lap times there was NO DIFFERENCE!

I put the Justock in again and ran 2 more weeks. Same lap times right on pace with the top guys at my track.

I wanted a speedo with a built in booster so i got 2 120A 1S speedos. One for 1/12 and one for WGT.

Added benefit is the 120A 1S is not restricted to 1S so it can be used in other classes. I dropped WGT and am now running it in TC. Works great.

The big thing I've noticed is the brakes! My new Tekin went into error mode and I put in a HW 1S . The ability to go without a receiver pack is great,but the servo slowing down wil take time to get used to. Throttle feel was similar. But brake power is significantly less.

Braking power is not a strong point of the HW in blinky mode, I think this carries to most models, though I have seen the Orion models do have good brakes, which confuses me when I know the Orion is made by HW.

Speed Passion shares the same lack of brakes from what I have found, I often wonder how Tekin improved their brakes, many used to say the Tekin brakes were shit, then somehow they made a big improvement, I do also wonder what the Viper and that are like for brakes.

Yeah, you are correct. Works for me because I'm somewhat sloppy with the trigger so it prevents me from over-braking. Someone told me that going to the larger capacitor will help with the brakes. I haven't tried it but it may be worth checking if you otherwise like the 1S. If you try it let us know how it works.

I set up my 1/12 (13.5) and WGT to not have drag brake. I keep adding steering until I can drive only lifting for the tightest corners and stay on power to some degree everywhere else. I only use brakes when lining up for the start of mains and at the end of races. I find that if any craziness happens in front of me its best not to lift and drive through it or around it. If you lift or hit the brakes you get parked more often than not.

I haven't run any HW speedos in my Sedan yet. I do use the brakes in my sedan even in 17.5.

The extreme stock ESC has nice brakes , tho not as aggressive as my lrp but as u said running stock blinky classes no one uses brakes or drag brakes . And like u said . Anytime I tap my brakes to avoid the "crazy ness" I get punted ... at least then I'm in control of my fait ...( I have trust issues) lol

It may be of interest, but I got the Justock myself, which comes with a single small cap, I upgraded to the larger HW twin cap, and it did improve the brakes a little, I'd been keen at some point to try one of the super cap boards with up to 4 caps on them.

I have been a big fan of the justock, and have been using them for a few years in Blinky class, mainly because they seem to have better brakes than other ESC that are programmable.

but it does have a major flow: if you blow the motor it will take the ESC out as well, (three Justock ESC so far)

Blowing the ESC if the motor blows is not uncommon, I wouldn't be too critical of the Justock for that. I know a few people who race blinky with the Justock and a very impressed.

I had too many issues with the brakes on the Hobbywing Xtreme Stock and Xerun V2 so made the switch to the LRP Flow. So nice to have an ESC that just "works".

Although the top speed of all the blinky ESCs is the same, some do have a nicer throttle feel and some do have better brakes. I noticed this against someone testing the basic Dualsky ESC, it was really soft when accelerating and I could literally drive straight by out of slow corners, whereas the top end was the same.

agree, for $60-70 the justock is good value, it is just bloody annoying to have to replace a ESC as well as a motor mid event,

agree the Hobbywing Xtreme Stock and Xerun V2 have rubbish brakes in blinky, the Justock is much better,

+1
 

I replaced HW 1S in my 12th scale and WGT with Viper VTX1 because they are smaller and do not require a outside booster for 1S racing classes. However I ran the HW $60 just stock in VTA a couple of weeks ago and qualified P2 behind the fastest guy at our club. For stock racing and the rules that we use the HW JUST STOCK speedo is the best money I have spent in a long time. As far as speedos in blinky mode being equal, to me it seems like personal preference. I like the feel of the Tekin RS but they were too fragile. I switched to Viper VTX 1 in all my cars (so if I blow one in any class I will always have a spare on hand)

Randy, It would be interesting as well as helpful if you could throw together a chart of some sort explaining which esc function is similar to say... different brush compounds, which esc function is similar to various brush cuts ? is it possible to achieve a half brush cut for torque versus a half brush cut for timing ? can you really do that in the esc ? what about different spring tensions ? can that be duplicated ?.... revealing that information would be a big help to us oldtimers.