Recently switched to 8th scale and got rid of all my 10th scale stuff and 2S batteries. I figured since I was getting all new batteries and what not I would take the opportunity to switch from Traxxas to Deans connectors.

These things are a pain in the butt to solder...I ruined 2 plugs tonight trying to solder connectors on 2 of my new batteries. I tinned everything right, but when I was applying heat to join them 1 of the posts must of heated up the plastic part of the plug and it just started to come right out.

Any tips for soldering these? I'm not an expert, but I had pretty good success in the past soldering up Traxxas connectors with little to no problems.

I do like using the deans as most people locally use them so if I'm in a pinch and need to borrow a battery or throw one on another charger it makes it a lot easier.

2 things I do to stop the melting of deans plugs

Mechanical hands, or an alligator clip stand to hold the plug.

Plug the deans into an extra (unconnected) matching plug (Male / female).

If needed you can clip a heat sink to the prongs on the extra plug.
(Just use caution not to clip to both at the same time if there is power on the plug.)


Hope this helps.

If you haven't already got more Deans, try some EC5 connectors. Easier to pull apart and they handle twice the current as Deans plugs.

If you'll do as suggested above and use the mate to the one you're soldering, heat probs should stop. You've also got to have a way to hold them securely so both hands are free.


There's also jigs available, this is one example -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yylYdsLUjF8

I've had this problem before and here are a few tips ive picked up.

1. Make sure you have a decent soldering torch/gun (I use a 35w for almost everything)
2. Practice! After doing 4 or 5 you get alot better quick.
3. I use vice-grips to hold the deans while im working, helps with the heat and doesnt move around as much.
4. Make sure you have a clean tip! I tin, clean w/ sandpaper, solder and it seems to help regulate the heat better.

hth!

Thanks for the advice guys, I did notice I'm in need of a new tip.

I'll try your suggestions next go around

Using some flux can help, as it reduces the time you need to hold the tip on. Also improves the integrity of the joint, helps cut through surface oxidation, etc.

These have worked really well for me.

http://www.readyheli.com/EZ-Solderin...c_p_36931.html

Sounds like you're giving the joint way too much heat for too long.

Plugging a spare connector into the one you are soldering keeps the pins from warping and help make the plugs easier to unplug in the future.

The tip about a clean tip and flux is very important. If you don't use flux, be sure to use solder with flux core.

With a larger guage connection like 10 or 12 guage wire to deans it helps to use the tip of the soldering iron to apply heat to both the connector and wire at the same time.

With practice you'll get the hang of it in no time.

All the tips above are great.

+1 on the opposite sex connector plugged into the one you're soldering. I keep "old" Deans connectors from discarded packs/ESCs/chargers around so when I'm soldering up new ones, i can just throw a connector in there to keep stuff from moving around.

My "technique" is to smear some flux on each part (so 2 wires, and 2 terminals on the connector), tin each of them lightly with 96/4 silver solder, then put the connector in the left side of an adjustable jig (I have an "Xacto" brand one), and the wire in the right side, positioned so they are touching each other solidly.

Remember your heat shrink!!!! I have way too much personal experience forgetting this step....

I use a 40 or 80W iron (yeah it's overkill) and touch the opposite side of the Dean's terminal from where the wire is touching. The 80W iron especially transfers so much heat, so quickly, the entire joint melts almost instantly. As long as the tip is tinned well to help the heat transfer, the entire time spent soldering the join is <2 seconds.

I find this helps keep the wire from moving around on the terminal since the iron isn't touching the wire directly.

All great advice...The best tip that helped me was plugging it in to an opposite connector to keep things from moving.

a hot iron and as some one else said make sure the tip is heating both the connector and wire at the same time. it should be a couple second job to melt both parts properly (if both correctly tinned)