What to do with coggy ESC?
#1
I got this LRP SXX TC spec ESC that came with a TC I bought a while ago. I ran it in the TC for a day of practice but even with the tallest gears in the world it couldn't hold a candle to the Tekin turbo. So I swapped in my Tekin with the plan of using the LRP in my SC10 since I don't need the turbo stuff.
Well I finally got around to hooking it up and it's got a weird cog basically whenever a load is applied to the rear wheels. Like if I am trying to go up the curb or uphill, or if I turn and nail it.
I emailed LRP to see what they say, but they haven't responded, and I don't have a receipt and this thing is probably way out of warranty anyway, as I'm sure it's a V1.
Any ideas on what I can so with this thing other than just throw it in the trash?
Well I finally got around to hooking it up and it's got a weird cog basically whenever a load is applied to the rear wheels. Like if I am trying to go up the curb or uphill, or if I turn and nail it.
I emailed LRP to see what they say, but they haven't responded, and I don't have a receipt and this thing is probably way out of warranty anyway, as I'm sure it's a V1.
Any ideas on what I can so with this thing other than just throw it in the trash?
#2
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Only thing I could suggest is to check all the power connections and make sure they're good and not getting warm (heat would imply the conn has resistance and thats costing you voltage) - cogging is sometimes a voltage issue, so check anything that could affect voltage to the motor.
#3
Only thing I could suggest is to check all the power connections and make sure they're good and not getting warm (heat would imply the conn has resistance and thats costing you voltage) - cogging is sometimes a voltage issue, so check anything that could affect voltage to the motor.
#4
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
If you have a decent DVM/MM, you can measure the resistance, it should be very near zero.
The next time you try running, when you're thru, use your fingers and feel each one - if they're warm, that connection should be redone. They shouldn't be any warmer than the wires.
The next time you try running, when you're thru, use your fingers and feel each one - if they're warm, that connection should be redone. They shouldn't be any warmer than the wires.
#5
If you have a decent DVM/MM, you can measure the resistance, it should be very near zero.
The next time you try running, when you're thru, use your fingers and feel each one - if they're warm, that connection should be redone. They shouldn't be any warmer than the wires.
The next time you try running, when you're thru, use your fingers and feel each one - if they're warm, that connection should be redone. They shouldn't be any warmer than the wires.




