People often ask "will this servo work for this car"? I thought I knew the answer but I'm not sure.
Torque - Seems to me that if a steering servo has enough torque to disengage the servo saver, it is strong enough. I just ran a test on my car and a 90oz servo is enough to disengage the servo saver with the servo saver set to the tightness that the instruction call for. Why then do I see so many drivers using servos with 200oz or greater? Do they run the sevo saver much tighter?
Speed - I never saw a reason to get a servo that was faster than my hand. I ran a couple "tests"; I moved my steering wheel from left to right to left 5 times(10 direction changes) while timming it. It took nearly 1.5 seconds. That suggests that a servo faster than 0.15s is faster than I can move my hand. I'm guessing that with adrenaline flowing in my vanes I'd be a little quicker, especially on short/quick corrections. I know that a 0.15s servo is quite slow and all my servos are in the 0.10s range.
What do you guys think? I know some of you have done servo testing, what did you find? Do we really "need" the new breed of super servo or is it marketing hype?
Thanks for your input.

A lot of AE drivers, I do as well, glue the servo saver, gives 100% "connection" to the car. I wouldn't bang a lot of pipes with a glued servo saver. This along with a higher torque servo makes it easier to "walk" a car/truck off of a pipe if you're stuck.. those are the reasons I run them, even with that I'm not sure you need a 200oz. steering servo. This is all in 1/10 also, 1/8th is a different story.

In 1/10th scale buggy I think 90oz.-in. is fine, just get a good one with metal gears for the hard hits and bearings for smoothness. 1/10th 4wd buggy I like a little more torque (like 120-140 oz.-in.) because you have the added friction from the front u-joints and the added inertia from the front wheels being under power. Also 4wd puts more weight on the front axle so tire friction becomes an issue.
To me speed is more a response thing. I find faster servos make me feel more "connected" to the car because there is less lag from my input at the radio to actual steering response of the car.
1/8th scale has bigger tires, bigger u-joints, and bigger hubs which equal more resistance to movement. Bigger, heavier wheels spinning just as fast if not faster equals major jump in inertia and thus higher torque to efficiently move the wheel. Ever spun a bicycle wheel while holding it in your hands then tried to turn it on the vertical axis? Not as easy as it sounds...