Set the neutral range to "narrow". Also, I just upgraded from my dx3r. Only after I decided to upgtade did I check the monitor in the Tx itself. My radio was well over a decade old. The Tx itself was not holding neutral on any channel. I notice a dramatic difference in control close to neutral points with my new tx/rx setup. The fix I used last season was to set the ESC to narrow. Good luck:cool:

Would adding additional capacitors or a larger on increase the drag braking.

Only 2 screws in fan?
 

Did anyone else's only come with two screws holding the fan in? Either way does anyone know the exact screw size? Thank you in advance.

Got the ESC and switched from the 80A XR10 in my F1.
calibrated it correctly. Acceleration is smooth but with full throttle the car is at least 30-40% slower in top speed. I just have the wifi Module and didn't change any settings of the ESC...

What can I do? Breaking and first acceleration is smooth, so I don't think it's a sensor cable issue....

Did you recalibrate the ESC with the transmitter? You push the button down until you get the constant beeps from the ESC, then hit the button again at neutral (1 beep), full throttle (2 beeps) and then full brake (3 beeps).

I only use Hobbywing, so yeah... Did that multiple times...

Okay...Ill test it. If everything should be normal this shouldnt make any difference, should it?

it should i had to do it to mine

On a sensor less motor two phase leads can be swapped and the motor will turn in the opposite direction. Only works on SENSOR LESS motors.
DO NOT try this if your motor has a sensor cable and you are using it. It will cause motor or ESC damage due to miss commutation

There are 2 new firmwares released for the justock esc. Anyone know what the differences are? I heard a whisper somewhere that they are rpm limited versions for 17.5/21.5 racing, but I don't know if this is true...

To answer my own question, I just tried firmware V1_17K5_NoTIMING, and it is limited to 17500rpm. I use a 13.5t motor, so it was quite unhappy about being limited.

A good member of this forum was kind enough to answer my PM about running a Justock esc for 17.5 2wd buggy.

He mentioned that the brakes are too weak for carpet/high traction surfaces. I discussed this with a guy from my local track and he said there may have been a firmware update to have fixed that issue.

Owners and users of the Justock, have you noticed weak brakes? Any firmware updates that might have addressed it?

This Justock esc thread mentions it back in 2013... but currently? no longer an issue?

Was originally thinking for spec racing it would be good enough to see if I would be happy running 17.5 (apparently their kvs are in the 3500 range now!) and would get an XR Pro G2 or something high end for mod. Now I'm questioning that thinking. Another knowledgeable member had mentioned the feel of the Justock isn't as good as other escs

brakes? adjustability? speed?

Using an OTA to program, in Blinky class 17.5/spec what would I be missing between a Justock and a higher end one like the XR10 Pro?

I'll be interested to hear the current real world responses. My son uses the just stock in a HW spec class here and if it has weak brakes, everyone does so it doesn't matter. I had purchased a stock spec for my buggy and the weak brake issue came up in discussion, but nobody could point to current issues and HW wasn't any real help. Ultimately, I got a screaming deal on a XR10 G2 so I went with that. I have a stock spec for my wife's truck so at some point we will see.

Another budget option to consider if your club doesn't require blinky mode is run the QuicRun 10BL120 which comes with zero timing out of the box, but is very old tech without blinky mode to indicate that you're using zero timing. Anyway the brake on this ESC is about the same strength as the brake on the newer XR10 Pro.

Some have mentioned earlier in this thread that you can increase the brake strength a pinch by increasing the reverse from 50% to 100% (on the Justock) and that was a glitch with the firmware, but I don't believe this will get the brake to be nearly as strong as the XR10 Pro... another factor that I've learned which impacts the brake strength is the strength of the rotor magnet in the motor where the team certified 5% rotors will generally provide stronger braking than run of the mill rotors.

I started out with the Justock on low to medium grip clay about 5 years ago and the brake was acceptable until the club switched to a turf track and could see clearly how other drivers were able to brake later on corner entry and were blowing me out of the water as they dove inside as I blew the corner or they would close the gap because I was forced to brake too soon with a weak brake, I was forced to upgrade my Justock to the XR10 Pro in order to be competitive on turf.