RS Pro was working great for practice and my first qualifier. Half way through the 2nd qualifier the motor quit. Back in the pits, LEDs on the ESC 1, 2, 6, and 7 are flashing. Tekin manual says this indicates wrong motor type selected. I checked the profile and it is correctly selected as brushless. I tried 3 brushless motors, same problem. Anyone else had this or a similar problem?

I'll do some more testing tonight. Sounds like the ESC is done:
http://forum.teamtekin.com/phpbb3/vi...hp?f=30&t=1982

Thanks,
P

I have the same problem with my RX8. Ran great for practice, when I turned it on again 30 minutes later...1,2,6,7 flashing.

Bizarre.

Please check any short circuit on your motor or esc (A,B,C)...

sometime is due to motor internal damage...maybe could try run on other speedo...

I have had this same problem. The board is bad. This is what I found.

If you disconnect the motor and turn on the speedo the lights and everything looks to work as normal. Solder the motor back up with the unit on and the motor will work but cogged like the sensor motor is bad. If you turn it off and back on again the the lights of 1,2 and 6,7 flash again. The only fix is warranty repair or Tekin's exchange program.

What's the procedure to test a motor for shorts?

did you have the capacitor soldered on?

if you have a spare one to hand, try changing the sensor cable also.

Thread revive.

I just ran into this problem. I was driving and the truck started to make a sound that seemed like a pinion/spur mesh was off. Took it off the track, checked it out, seemed fine and put it back on the track. Ran a few more laps and the sound came back.

I took it off the track and was about to go back into the trans when I noticed that the power capacitor on the +/- wires was broken. It must have vibrated and broken the capacitor wire. I had a spare OEM tekin cap in my pit box, soldered it on, turned on the ESC and now I get "wrong motor type" selected. Being that it has worked flawless for months and no wiring was changed it's obviously a problem from the few laps with a broken or shorting cap. I'm hoping a reset with the hotwire may help issues but who knows.

If anyone has any thoughts I'd love to hear them. I'll post back after my "reset" and let all know what comes about. Figured I'd update this post as it was the first to pop up on my search.

well. I reinstalled software via my hotwire. The original settings all looked good but I reinstalled anyway, reset, and same problem. I'm thinking that I poofed my RSpro and now need to send it in. What a bummer. I can't fault the ESC as I'm sure it's had a fair share of abuse and the fact that I can send it in for repair is good I suppose. Just whining as I'm feeling economically challenged as of late.

Make sure the cap. is soldered on the right way. "Blue" edge goes to the minus side.

Yea, cap is on right. I think the speed control poofed from running with a broken cap wire. I've done the factory reset and the reinstall the software. No matter what I do as soon as you power it up it immediately goes to the 1,2 & 6,7 lights. No startup chime or sync up, just the error code immediately. I can use the mode button and recalibrate the radio to the ESC but it goes right back to the error code after calibration.

I'll put in my spare RS and wait a few paychecks before sending it in to Tekin for their $92.00 repair/service.

If you've soldered on your ESC several times, try taking the case apart, and clean between the solder posts, as well as the bottom side of the board where the solder posts are attached with denatured alcohol and a stiff nylon brush [tooth brush style], blow it dry with compressed air, and don't apply power to it for at least 20 minutes [to be sure everything is dry].

I've seen this happen due to a high resistance short due to uncleaned solder flux on the RS that was remedied by cleaning.

You might have still fried something running without a cap, but if you have to wait a bit before you have the funds to send it back, it might be worth a try.

agreed, worth a try and as I find time I'll post as to if it fixed the problem. The speed control was bought brand new by me and I'm the only one that has soldered on it. Even though it's been in and out of 2 vehicles I usually desolder any excess solder from the posts before reinstalling, but it's worth a try as we're talking about $100.00 here.

I bought one used here on the forums and never got it to work. The seller claims it was working the last time he used it. We also have another that went up in smoke when it was plugged to a lipo correctly and the switch was in off position. There's a small burnt spot between the battery posts on the board. I get the same on that one, 1,2,6,7 leds. By what I'm reading here, I'm not going to waste my money sending it back only to fail again. I should have kept using blue or orange esc as those keep working without any problems for years. I've also been hearing a lot of horror stories about Tekin speed controls from other drivers.

Seller doesn't want to refund my money, says I broke it. It never worked and now I'm f%#ked. I'm never going to buy Tekin junk again!