TryHard

iTrader: (4)

It will be included in the latest v3.42 download on the Hobbywing site. The software download has all the avaliable firmware a already included. Just plug your speedy in, and it will let you select the avallable firmwares to update, of which 508_no timing should be one for the v2.1 ESC's.

HiH
Ed

baznz

hi what FGR are you running in 21.5 ??

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

what kind of car? i can help if onroad. 3.5 for larger track and 3.9 for small tight track. or anywhere in between those numbers will work well. adjust for temp. too hot move more towards the 3.9 still cool gear up a little towards the 3.5 range. good luck. still have not upgraded either of my just stocks. dont plan on it either. they work fine as is.

chasingthepack

hi angelo,i have an orion r10 pro,(i believe hw built these for orion)im using the new v10 13.5 motor in boosted on a large outdoor track,i have good acceleration but lose some top speed against the others,can you recommend some boost/timing setting that will work better with this motor,any help much appreciated,my current settings are

1 =1
2 =0%
3 =3.0v
4 =level 9
5 = 87.5%
6 =25%
7 =20%
8 = 9%
9 = enabled
10= 40
11=2000
12=350
13= 34
14=24
15= 0.2 secs
and 30 degs on the motor geared at 5.70 and temps are around 85c
heres the track--
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zoZPqalnwk
im the 3rd car into the chicane the second orange car

MWarren

Those settings look similar to the older HW v2.1. If option 11 is boost start rpm I suggest you up that to 4000/5000. If 13 is turbo then I expect the esc is only using 24 of it as the HW esc only uses 64 steps of boost and turbo combined. I race regularly at Cotswold track and run a FDR of 5.88 with similar settings on a v3 HW. What track are you running at to need 5.7?

chasingthepack

your right its the older v.2.1 software
ill have a play around with it somemore,its not far off but it does feel overgeared as i struggle to keep up on the infield,i dropped to 27/84 5.9 and although it didnt feel as fast i was quicker on the infield
with those setting is the boost all coming in to early so runs out before i can get to the end of the straight?

MWarren

Quite possibly yes. Try those settings and 5.9 and see how it goes.

chasingthepack

cheers ive dropped it to 6.1 and going to play with boost then add turbo as needed,and forgot to mention this is the aldershot track

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I'm looking at purchasing a Hobbywing esc. Before I do, I want to get your input on whether or not it's worth it. I live and race in Japan and race 21.5 / 1/12 / 2 cell. I currently have a LRP Flow Competition, it's a nice esc for club racing. A couple weeks ago I participated in Japan's 1/12 Nationals and I couldn't help but notice the power and punch was lacking on the long straight and infield section. The car's setup was there and was really nice to drive and I ended up 12th out of 65 drivers. I spoke with Naoto Matsukura and he said ''Your car looks great, but it's a little slow.'' I'm wondering if the esc isn't providing me with the ''full power'' needed for such high level competition. I run fairly new SMC lipo batteries, and a raced tuned by the owner himself specifically for the race track. However, I was still lacking the 'rip' around the track. I wonder if this was attributed to the ESC?

What are your thoughts? Is it worth getting the hobbywing stock spec? Also, does it come with the program box?

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I would not be quick to blame the esc in this case. The 21.5 class has such a low amp draw motor almost any esc will produce similar results. A bigger question is what motor were you running, is your battery top notch, motor timing and chassis setup. The 21.5 class at our track shows that to be fast especially out of a corner, that the car needs to be set up very well. Scrub to much speed in a corner and the car will look slow down the straight. But check the motor/timing and gearing to make sure you are in the ballpark with those first.

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

Matsukura's car always looks like it's on steroids, so I wouldn't worry too much about Matsukura saying your car is "a little slow" I have no idea how that guy can drive his car so consistently cuz that thing looks super twitchy.

Besides that, the Stock Spec is, in my opinion, the best ESC if you're not running low turn mod motors. It's lightweight, has excellent tuning options, can run boost or blinky, and is just an awesome ESC. You'll be happy with it.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated. old_dude - You're probably right about the whole setup thing, it was only my first time to run 1/12 on carpet. I still have quite a bit of tinkering to do when it comes to setup. However, I only race on asphalt and it's a 4 hour drive to nearest carpet track.

As for the motor and timing. This was setup and tuned by the owner of the motor company. Everyone and their best friend were using the same motor, timing, and within the same roll out range. I temped my car after each run and the motor came off around 180-185 F after 8 mins of hard racing.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

Edward2003: Performance falls off considerably on most (not all) when one of these motors exceeds 145 deg F. You may actually be over timed or over geared. Lap times should not fall more than .3 to .4 seconds over the run. Because of the methods manufacturers take in marking their motors it is tough to compare timing settings. But once a brushless motor exceeds 45 degrees static timing the efficiency falls rapidly. You can generate more power above that but the amp draw goes through the roof and the motor gets hot quickly. I work with a motor builder closely, race oval, on-road and locally am respected for my motor work. It is usually better to stay under the 45 degree timing point and adjust the rollout until you get your best performance.

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

hey guys need a little bit of help here. i am currently running a xerun v3 on v3.1 121209 beta software. havent updated my speedo in awhile. then i went to upgrade to 3.42 but now when i open 3.42 it doesnt give me an option of updating the firmware past the v3.1 121209 beta. am i missing something or is that right. also updated the box from 1.11 to 1.13 to try and see if it would open up new firmware for 3.42 but no luck

mr.preay

If running on Win7 try "run as admin"
**your past version should be 121204

If your program box is not a newer model
(Multifunction LCD Program Box)
You must use the firmware with _v3 postfix
eg. V*.**_******_V3