31LikesHow to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)
10-20-2009, 07:26 PM
#16
Heat kills tips...
But to be more detailed tips are made of a base of copper and a protective plating of another metal Iron or less often nickel or chromium (or in the case of hakko, a double plating of chromium over iron. others may have this as well)
More active metals tend to invade and replace/erode less active metals, in a similar way water can erode dirt and rock. (in result only, the processes are completely different) Copper has a low reactivity level compared to most other metals. (like the lead and tin in solder) This is why tips have protective coating of a different metal.
The erosion process increases with heat, (I think its on the level of doubling for every 10*C) and in the presence of reactive compounds like acids. (flux is a form of acid, RMA is weak compared to other types and is best for long tip life) Iron as we all know reacts easily with oxygen (rust) even at room temp, and acids make this worse.
Cheap irons have iron plated tips, which will wear out quickly, and the more heat the quicker it happens. More watts is more heat, and cheap irons are on or off, temp selection might at best be high and low.
You can also crack or wear away the protective plating by using bad technique when soldering or cleaning the tip. Even tiny cracks will exposes the copper to damage. If you ever need to file the tip, you are in a loosing battle. When the copper is exposed, just a few minutes is enough to put huge pits in it.
But to be more detailed tips are made of a base of copper and a protective plating of another metal Iron or less often nickel or chromium (or in the case of hakko, a double plating of chromium over iron. others may have this as well)
More active metals tend to invade and replace/erode less active metals, in a similar way water can erode dirt and rock. (in result only, the processes are completely different) Copper has a low reactivity level compared to most other metals. (like the lead and tin in solder) This is why tips have protective coating of a different metal.
The erosion process increases with heat, (I think its on the level of doubling for every 10*C) and in the presence of reactive compounds like acids. (flux is a form of acid, RMA is weak compared to other types and is best for long tip life) Iron as we all know reacts easily with oxygen (rust) even at room temp, and acids make this worse.
Cheap irons have iron plated tips, which will wear out quickly, and the more heat the quicker it happens. More watts is more heat, and cheap irons are on or off, temp selection might at best be high and low.
You can also crack or wear away the protective plating by using bad technique when soldering or cleaning the tip. Even tiny cracks will exposes the copper to damage. If you ever need to file the tip, you are in a loosing battle. When the copper is exposed, just a few minutes is enough to put huge pits in it.
so if I use a solid core solder and some flux, it would last longer than useing rosen core solder?
10-20-2009, 07:43 PM
#17
Solder selection matters to, lead free solder can eat at a tip made for lead solder faster. That is why they sell lead free tips.
10-21-2009, 10:22 AM
#18
This occasionally goes on sale for 1.99$ 3.99$ now 
Not that 3.99 is expensive for such a useful thnig.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=319
Not that 3.99 is expensive for such a useful thnig.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=319
10-21-2009, 10:25 AM
#19
10-21-2009, 10:32 AM
#21
10-21-2009, 10:34 AM
#22
Us RMA core solder and RMA or solid solder and RMA, either way. Use a new tip, keep it clean, and don't over heat the tip. Like I said, once the tip starts to pit, its a lost battle.
Solder selection matters to, lead free solder can eat at a tip made for lead solder faster. That is why they sell lead free tips.
Solder selection matters to, lead free solder can eat at a tip made for lead solder faster. That is why they sell lead free tips.
the problem is, its a 1 temp iron, and I can spend 30min soldering stuff...
lead free=
I hate that crap, I can't get it to work for me at all...
10-21-2009, 10:46 AM
#23
The only people who I have heard say lead free isn't all that bad to work with, have never used lead solder, especially 63/37. I can't stress enough how much better 63/37 is over 60/40. Its not as huge of a jump as lead solder vs lead free, but once you use it, you will not want anything else.
10-21-2009, 11:45 AM
#24
Been soldering since I was in high school (Mr Fixit at the local Hdw store). In undergrad school, I made extra money assembling the old Heathkit stereos. I started with a Weller gun that's just recently lost its 2nd tip. Gun is older than a whole lot of people on here btw, buy good equip and take care of it, it lasts!
When I started back into this hobby, I chanced on Deans racing solder and quickly realized how good of a job it does. Prob is the enviro cases are going to save us all from sitting around all day sniffing Deans (or any leaded solder) fumes so its gone away. Kester used to make one that would replace Deans and I've been looking for a while with no luck (still have a fair amt of Deans on hand). Its a 62% tin, 36% lead 2% silver formulation. It was sold as stock number KE1119-ND as 18ga wire and KE1120-ND as 23ga wire solder.
I have managed to read about a guy in England who found/bought a pound, so it must still be around. I think they discontinued it cause it was expensive and didn't sell well. Sure would like to find some if anyone has ever seen any of it or anything like it.
Great how-to!!
When I started back into this hobby, I chanced on Deans racing solder and quickly realized how good of a job it does. Prob is the enviro cases are going to save us all from sitting around all day sniffing Deans (or any leaded solder) fumes so its gone away. Kester used to make one that would replace Deans and I've been looking for a while with no luck (still have a fair amt of Deans on hand). Its a 62% tin, 36% lead 2% silver formulation. It was sold as stock number KE1119-ND as 18ga wire and KE1120-ND as 23ga wire solder.
I have managed to read about a guy in England who found/bought a pound, so it must still be around. I think they discontinued it cause it was expensive and didn't sell well. Sure would like to find some if anyone has ever seen any of it or anything like it.
Great how-to!!
10-21-2009, 03:05 PM
#25
If deans stopped production then it could be hard to find. I would say give the 63/37 stuff a try. You can find it easily.
10-23-2009, 01:57 AM
#26
Updated with some more tips and info on wire and plugs/connectors.
Also:
Mods, is there a way to change the thread title? I would like to be able to update it whenever I add new info. And is this thread sticky worthy? It would not benefit many if it gets lost among the multitude of new posts.
Also:
Mods, is there a way to change the thread title? I would like to be able to update it whenever I add new info. And is this thread sticky worthy? It would not benefit many if it gets lost among the multitude of new posts.
10-25-2009, 07:04 AM
#27
Excellent write up. You seem to have covered all the bases.
I would add that it is not desireable to dunk the tip of the iron in flux to clean it and when storing your iron, leave a good amount of solder on the tip to prevent oxidation.
I would add that it is not desireable to dunk the tip of the iron in flux to clean it and when storing your iron, leave a good amount of solder on the tip to prevent oxidation.
10-25-2009, 11:02 AM
#28
I will edit it real quick. I'm glad you mentioned that. To me, I know what I mean, but if others are unsure then I will clarify.
10-25-2009, 05:26 PM
#29
Updated with some more tips and info on wire and plugs/connectors.
Also:
Mods, is there a way to change the thread title? I would like to be able to update it whenever I add new info. And is this thread sticky worthy? It would not benefit many if it gets lost among the multitude of new posts.
Also:
Mods, is there a way to change the thread title? I would like to be able to update it whenever I add new info. And is this thread sticky worthy? It would not benefit many if it gets lost among the multitude of new posts.
I think it deserves a sticky
10-25-2009, 08:00 PM
#30
