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Anybody ran these before please give some feedback ?
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ing/vortex.jpg |
Ace servos are the best I've used and I've tried them all. I run DS1015 for steering and 1313 for throttle with a lipo pack on buggy and truggy.
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Originally Posted by Banter
(Post 5530052)
I probably should have mentioned that I have a Futaba 3PK w/HRS. From what I understand HRS only works with digital servos, but is there an advantage to sticking with Futaba digital servos?
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Tonyng they are what I was talking about. In Europe they are named Savox. I will eventually try 1 like I said before, I know Team Orion wouldnt put their name on anything that sucked. I am digging the 1 with the red sticker for both duties in buggy. Someone said they had them and was impressed with them so far. Its like 170 something oz of torque at .9 transit, nice.
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Originally Posted by tfa8rva
(Post 5529374)
I really like the ACE R/C DS1015 on steering and throttle. If you're a little strapped for cash, the DS1313's ain't bad either.
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This is all you need. I been running them for almost a year with zero problems. I ran them in the snow without sealing them and they've held up. Speed and torque is second to none. Some say overkill, but I say best of the best. JR z9100s & DS8711. Go big or go home.:nod:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...d/IMG_1000.jpg http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...d/IMG_0999.jpg |
Originally Posted by kasarn
(Post 5534209)
This is all you need. I been running them for almost a year with zero problems. I ran them in the snow without sealing them and they've held up. Speed and torque is second to none. Some say overkill, but I say best of the best. JR z9100s & DS8711. Go big or go home.:nod:
Also, the HRS on my Futaba 3PK will work with ANY digital servo right? Doesn't have to be Futaba correct? |
another vote for Ace servos.. 1015 for steering, 1313 for brake/throttle
wicked fast and smooth. |
In buggy you could get away with the 9100s on steering not truggy you will fry it. Usually you see the s and the t as a set t for steering and the s for throttle.
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Oh and my quote of 170 something oz of torque on that 1 Orion servo was wrong its 195 oz torque at .9 transit time, even better!!!!
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is the jr z650 servo any good ?i see it has a 3yr warrenty
was going to run it on a revo single servo set up |
Originally Posted by GNS Racing 86
(Post 5535488)
is the jr z650 servo any good ?i see it has a 3yr warrenty
was going to run it on a revo single servo set up thats a RTR level servo....warranty means jack if you have to send it in every time you blow a gear set or the electronics fail...spend big and be done with it. :nod: |
Don't get the JRZ650 servo, they don't last, I ran them on my buggy's and truggies and they give out quickly. Any high end servo of any brand works fine just stay away from the ACE servos some are good but some are also bad and have 0" warranty.
I currently run the JR 8800t and 9100s and even the 4800t which is non digital and all work flawless. |
Originally Posted by wallot
(Post 5529915)
u will get eventually recommended all the top servos :)
so lets continue. Futaba BLS351/352/451/452 depending on application. JR9100T/S and list continues... i really like futaba brushless series as they seem to have quite low power consumption |
The orion servos look really cool but they have alum gears not good for 1/8 scale abuse. I have run JR9100S/T with little problems. When I did have a problem I sent it back to Horizon Hobby and they warrantied it even when the top bearing went out and broke a gear on the 9100T. JR said this was not a warranty issue but they sent me a new servo anyway - great customer service. I have recently purchased a Hitec 7955 and it seems like the quality is superior to the JR but I don't have enough track time on it. The only thing with Hitec is the servo horn screw is highly specialized and unique to Hitec 2.3m. I don't like that. The cheaper JR servos like 650 or lower are junk I have blown them up in 1/2 hour. With JR 8800 or higher. I want to try the Futaba servos, Futaba has always bee a high end/ high price item, but well worth it. The way i see you get what you pay for and if I DNF due to a cheap part it's my own dam fault, I;m not willing to take that chance. If I DNF it better be for a really good reason like a bad crash that shatters the rear hub carrier or shears a tie rod but to DNF for cheap equipment is not acceptable to me.
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