soldering problem on negatives "-"
#16
umm..it looks like high watt/Temp is not a key because I have heard some many people saying they can use low watt soldering iron (40 to 60W) to make the job done without any problems. It seems to me that the key is to have a high quality iron like Weller or Hakko because they have better heat transfer and thermal performance, and of course using proper tip, flux, cleaning the surface and pretinning are also important.
I check the price for Weller soldering gun and iron, a high watt gun (100 to 200W) is around 30 to 70, but a good quality low watt iron (60W) may cost you more than 50. I don't know the magic thing inside the iron which makes the price as expensive as an industrial gun, but I think now I can understand why some people can solder the battery packs by using a low watt iron.
I check the price for Weller soldering gun and iron, a high watt gun (100 to 200W) is around 30 to 70, but a good quality low watt iron (60W) may cost you more than 50. I don't know the magic thing inside the iron which makes the price as expensive as an industrial gun, but I think now I can understand why some people can solder the battery packs by using a low watt iron.
#17
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Heres where I bought mine - 80watt Weller, $35 + S&H.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=wel-spl80L
I use a weller gun, 100/140watts, thats been with me a long time, but def would not consider it for building batts, its for light stuff - when wire gage gets larger than 12, I use an iron, the gun soldering tip loses heat too quickly to make a good joint.
Here's another place to look - prices on the small end of that range you quoted -
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/we...FQ8QagoddU0N_Q
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=wel-spl80L
I use a weller gun, 100/140watts, thats been with me a long time, but def would not consider it for building batts, its for light stuff - when wire gage gets larger than 12, I use an iron, the gun soldering tip loses heat too quickly to make a good joint.
Here's another place to look - prices on the small end of that range you quoted -
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/we...FQ8QagoddU0N_Q
#19
thank you guys for giving me these helpful tricks
I think I will go for Weller 80 watt cause lower watt's one is only few bucks cheaper, and also in case low watt will not work for me.
I think I will go for Weller 80 watt cause lower watt's one is only few bucks cheaper, and also in case low watt will not work for me.
#20
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,010
From: Midwest
the reason for those pesky negative ends is that the negative end of the nimh cell will absorb the heat/energy much faster than the positive end causing soldering problems and cold joints.
*make sure the use a dremel to rough up battery ends.
*use a Weller sp40L iron and make sure its to temp! Often between joints the iron's tip will cool down give it some time to heat back up before the next joint.
*Clean the tip off before soldering on a wet sponge and lightly pre-tin tip.
*use a battery jig and a quality rosin core solder. NO Silver (deans is good) buy it from the local hobby shop.
Good luck
Jason
*make sure the use a dremel to rough up battery ends.
*use a Weller sp40L iron and make sure its to temp! Often between joints the iron's tip will cool down give it some time to heat back up before the next joint.
*Clean the tip off before soldering on a wet sponge and lightly pre-tin tip.
*use a battery jig and a quality rosin core solder. NO Silver (deans is good) buy it from the local hobby shop.
Good luck
Jason




