tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I've seen this designation being thrown around, "V2," on the Mamba Max, is there such thing as a version 2 of Mamba Max?

I thought all Mamba Max were the same, except for the firmware updates (that anyone can do with a PC and an internet connection).

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

There are two versaion of the Mamba Monster Max, but I've not seen the Mamba Max referred to as having a v2. The V1 MMM - fan runs as soon as turned on (fans they didn't last long either), V2 - fan driven by thermostat comes on at 140F.

There were some rumors, that Castle has denied, that after a certain date, they were using lower voltage internals in the MM. The 'early' ones could run
5S and 'later' ones wouldn't arm at 5S.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

the mamba max did undergo a running change...there are now fewer fets on the latest ones, but according to castle the specs on the new fets are better so it has the same current capacity with fewer fets.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info guys. Does the shrink wrap (or lack thereof) around the Electrolytics have anything to do with this revision?

I noticed that on every Mamba Max out there, even the ones pictured in the ads on various online hobby shops, have a shrink wrap wrapped around all three of the electrolytic capacitors. My unit never came with a shrink wrap around the three capacitors. Is this a sign of an older version or the new revision?

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

I have a early one - bought it in 1st few months after their release and it has the shrink. Sounds like you may have a later version?

Krio - do you know the diff in FET count betweeen the two? That would for sure tie it down (assuming you were willing to take a peak). I'm curious

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I will find the count and get back to ya. I learned (and was shown) the fet count difference from lxmuff.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I inadvertantly took a peek at the underside. Since the two #1 cap screws that screws down into the plastic case aren't very deep, any little torque on the wires will cause the board to pop out of casing. Since then, I've threaded in a couple of longer #1 screws into the casing... I've even threaded in a #2 screw in place of the #1 screw on the capacitor-side of the board. A word of caution, to thread in a #2 in that location, you have to be REAL careful not to twist it with a high torque, a high torque may cause your PCB to crack...

From what I remember, there weren't much FETs. I was also surprise how small those FETs were. There was a bank of four if I remember correctly. I was surprised that the power handling was very different from my brushed ESC (Novak GTX), which is just a single giant FET...