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Old 07-04-2008 | 03:22 PM
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ok, this all started in march of this year. i bought a sidewinder 5700 from my lhs. i put it in my rustler and the esc lasted about 4 minutes and smoked. my lhs replaced it in store,after that i kept having motor temp. problems and castle replaced the motor saying it had 'demagnetizied'.got every thing working again and on about the fifth run the shaft snapped on the replacment motor.once again castle replaced the motor. everything was fine for about a month and then i try a 8 cell battery(everything up to now has been on 6 cell ib4200 or ep4600s), plugged in the 8 cell and smoked the esc, in the garage and the truck never got turned on. mailed it to castle on monday. i decided to step up to a mamba max esc and use the sidewinder esc(when its returned) for a upcoming project. second run on the mamba max with the 5700 the shaft on the motor breaks again . castle has been very good with warranty replacements but this is crazy!
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Old 07-04-2008 | 04:18 PM
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Not familiar with the bigger motors from CC. I do remember that when I put the Mamba in RC18T it required changing gearing to keep temps down. This was even with NiMH batteries not LIPO.
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Old 07-04-2008 | 04:49 PM
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castle recomends 18 to 22 tooth pinion for my setup and i run a 16 or a 17 when i am bashing to keep the temps down. when i was fighting the first motor i ran all the way down to a 13 tooth. their is no binding and the truck rolls very easy. also, both motors i have broken the shafts on broke while stopping.
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Old 07-04-2008 | 07:00 PM
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I think that it is just a once off i have only heard good about cc but it is nice to see them valueing their warranty
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Old 07-06-2008 | 07:07 AM
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In 25 years of racing I never seen broken shaft on a motor like that and to have more than one do it is really strange. Something is just no right thats for sure. I been racing my CC motors for 7 months and no problems. I race at a very brutal indoor track during the winter where track temps are around 35 degrees on rock hard clay with slicks. Traction is unreal and still no breakage of motor shafts.

Not sure what it is but it is really out of the ordinary to break shafts like that.
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Old 07-06-2008 | 08:16 AM
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yea, i have been around rc for a while now and i have not heard of other people breaking shafts like i have except for some rock crawlers where they get in a bind and snap
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Old 07-06-2008 | 08:27 AM
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i had a mamba in my m18 and i nevr really liked it. i always had problems with it cogging. i just could never get it to stop. i switched to sensored brushless and i never had a problem
just my 2 cents
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Old 07-06-2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN
i had a mamba in my m18 and i nevr really liked it. i always had problems with it cogging. i just could never get it to stop. i switched to sensored brushless and i never had a problem
just my 2 cents
COgging should now be a non issue with the newest probrams out from Castle. The only other way to cog anymore is bad/weak batteries or if you use the old bullet connectors instead of the new CC bullets.

I been running all the CC stuff since October of last year for full brushless and no cogging.

Sensored is nice as well and as long as your happy its all cool. Not everything out suits all people so the options nowadays are nice.
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Old 07-07-2008 | 01:49 AM
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It has to be asked. How is the gear mesh between the pinion and spur? Also, how tight are the motor screws? If you have your gear mesh too tight, I can see it breaking off the shaft (which also could cause some of the heat issues).

CC are chinese made motors made by third parties with no direct control of the quality of materials. These can change, or a bad batch can go through these factories without the knowledge of the QC. (Just saying is all)
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Old 07-07-2008 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by oXYnary
It has to be asked. How is the gear mesh between the pinion and spur? Also, how tight are the motor screws? If you have your gear mesh too tight, I can see it breaking off the shaft (which also could cause some of the heat issues).

CC are chinese made motors made by third parties with no direct control of the quality of materials. These can change, or a bad batch can go through these factories without the knowledge of the QC. (Just saying is all)
That is true but Castle does own the factory but being a million miles away can be a problem from time to time. I know Castle has guys going to the factory every so often.
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Old 07-07-2008 | 08:48 AM
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I broke the shaft on my Mamba 5700. Only had it in the car a few times before it broke. I got a Tekin Redline and it's still running great. Maybe a bad batch of shafts or something?
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Old 07-07-2008 | 08:54 AM
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i set my gear mesh with a piece of a dollar bill as a general rule. the motor screws are as tight as i can get them on the rustler plastic motor mount with flat washers. after the first motor i have not had temp. problems with the other 2. i do not believe either of the motors with the shaft breakage ever got above 180f, that in tall grass. i am going to buy a motor heaksink just to be safe.
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Old 07-07-2008 | 01:13 PM
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Can yu use the castle software on that motor? maybe the brake is set so high that it could help snap the shaft off? dunno. I also like the idea of a bad batch of shafts.
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Old 07-07-2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Corral
Can yu use the castle software on that motor? maybe the brake is set so high that it could help snap the shaft off? dunno. I also like the idea of a bad batch of shafts.
If you are refering to my post, yes the Castle software/esc will work with any sensorless motor(Sensored also I believe) My drag brake is set quite low, and my brake isn't that high also, although that is a good idea.
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Old 07-07-2008 | 04:29 PM
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i have the braking set at the default 50% and no drag brake. from everyone i have talked to (forums, other rc guys, castle tech suppport, etc.) i also believe this was either a fluke or a bad batch of shafts. i was told by tech support that they used to get motors from china 300 or 400 at a time,but right now they are getting like 25 to 50 at a time. maybe they are having some sort of issue?
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