So I got a new sct pro 120 paired with the new 4700 4 pole hobbywing motor in a package. First time out after about half the race the truck started glitching comming out of a corrner on power it would stumble for a sec then all of a sudden go. ALso the fan stoped working as well as the program car doesnt get any power from that plug in as well? I did notice to that when driving slow it jutters like its almost turning off then on when you hold it at a steady 1/8th throttle. Not sure where to start ? This is the first time out as well and the system is only 2 weeks old. Thanks.

Turn you lvc down to a 'custom' value of 6.1. This is what I (and others) have done to over come the 'crawl' mode it seems to enter randomly for a couple seconds.

I have the lvc turned right off. The main problem is the connector where you plug the card and the fan into isnt getting power anymore. And the biggest issue is that when comming out of a corrner and gasing it it stumbles and losses power then all of a sudden goes agian. Only when your going slow into a corrner then powering out.

Do you have a good quality battery? You probably need atleast a 40c battery. I found my 13.5 did that with a 30c 2s lipo. I got a better battery and haven't had a problem.

Send Angelo a email about the bad plug. He will hook you up and get it fixed.

Ya ifs a 65c. Ok will do is that cobraracing? Thanks for the help

Yes cobraracing. Very helpful, he has always responded to all my emails within a few hours.

So emailed and pm cobraracing, and emailed 2 people at hobbywing via there website and no responce back this was a week ago?

so im gonna have my dex210 soon ,,, what if u would recomend from hobbywing to run in it and if it will fit well ?,, ether that or im gonna end up with a $250 motor and esc combo so price isnt to much of an issue im looking for durability and i dont mind cleaning and repairing

Hi,

Just took delivery of the HW SCT Pro ESC and the LCD Program Box.

Just noticed according to the HW website the USB Link Software does not seem to list the HW SCT Pro ESC for the software?

Does this mean that I can only use the LCD Program box standalone (ie without hooking up to the PC), otherwise, which of the software versions (copied below) do I need?


2. Software Versions
A. Version 1.64_111011

• The Version1.64 is suitable for the following ESC:
• XERUN Series Car ESC (Version 2.0 and 2.1)
• EZRUN Series Car ESC (Version 2.0 and later)
• PLATINUM Series helicopter/airplane ESC

B. Version 3.1_120517
The Version 3.1 is suitable for the following ESC:

• XERUN Series Car ESC (Version 3.0 and later)
• XERUN Series Car ESC (Version 2.0 and 2.1)
• EZRUN Series Car ESC (Version 2.0 and later)
• PLATINUM Series helicopter/airplane ESC

Thanks

Is there anywhere I can go to buy a new SCT-Pro style switch? My V2.1 120A switch is starting to fail, and the rubber-covered SCT-Pro style switch seems like a great replacement (keeps all the goop out).

Thanks

I have a Xerun 120A 2.1, how can I tell if the (or any ESC) internal BEC has given up its spirit? Thanks,

Is it possible to use the castle link instead of the hobbywing card? Just curious to save myself some money.

Well, this evening I ran my brand new HW ESC for the first time. This is an XERUN 150amp ESC on 4s. I ran for about 4 or 5 minutes on the track, then I just lost throttle completely like it hit the voltage cut. Turns out, it wasn't the low voltage cut though.

I tried two freshly charged batteries, and had no throttle. Just a blinking red LED on the ESC at first. I checked all my tx settings, checked throttle signal, checked wiring, checked ESC settings..all good. Eventually, the blinking went away and I just had a solid red LED on the ESC. After that, I found that the motor would run, seemingly fine, until I let off the throttle and let it stop. At this point, there would be no LED lit on the ESC. Then when I pulled the trigger, it would not run the motor again and the solid red LED came back on. I was able to 'push start' the car, then it would run fine again.

This was pretty repeatable. Push start, run fine, stop, no throttle response. Push start, and repeat. This was all with a Tacon 2000kv 1/8 motor by the way, in an RC8.2e with stock spur and 18t pinion. After the first run, the motor and ESC temps were reasonable...I forgot my temp gun at home but I could easily hold my fingers on either indefinitely. When I got home, I tried a Castle motor to see if the problem would persist, and it did. So the problem is definitely with the ESC I think.

Any ideas? If it's bad, what's the best way to get it replaced?

Well when my brushless hobbies LT4 BEC died the fan stopped and there was no radio control as the BEC powers the RX. With a RX battery or external BEC it works fine (but still no fan).

1.have you calibrated your ESC before you run it?

2.have you set the Lipo to 4S? or Auto,

3. or maybe your motor is above the rated KV for 4S. *(ruled out)

1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
When working with 4 cells Lipo: KV<=3000

4. or try changing your sensor wire...see if that helps.

5. maybe thermalling.....check temp.


after the motor cools down, does it still do the same problems?sometimes the low voltage protection will kick in if the battery cannot supply the draw of the motor, you can adjust the cutoff of the battery, experienced that HW cutoff voltage is not that precise, when tested with a VOM, voltage is way above the cutoff voltage.

cheers!