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Motor rotor replacement
May sound like a dumb question, but will a new rotor in an old stator be a like new motor? I’m ignoring bearing wear and assuming it’s shimmed correctly, will it spin near new?
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Originally Posted by staiguy
(Post 16164452)
May sound like a dumb question, but will a new rotor in an old stator be a like new motor? I’m ignoring bearing wear and assuming it’s shimmed correctly, will it spin near new?
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The stator can only go bad by burned wires. As long that is not the case it will work as new.
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Id do the bearings too.
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Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 16164524)
The stator can only go bad by burned wires. As long that is not the case it will work as new.
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 16164596)
Negative, it can also be damaged by foreign objects eg screws getting jammed in the motor. Or a crash bending the can etc.
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Chances are if you cooked the rotor causing it to lose is magnetic properties, then you likely cooked the stator as well. If there are black burn marks anywhere on the coil, then it's junk, you can also smell it and any signs of "burnt electrical" smell then it's garbage. I've learned to replace my motors every 6 months to a year tops, if it's in decent working condition, I'll bundle everything together into a RTR deal and buy all new equipment in order to be competitive.
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Basically what Billdelong stated. Check for discoloration of the windings. How old is the motor?
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A year, maybe two but i average going to the track 3 times a month so not high use. I want to switch to an rpm motor but being kinda cheap about it. I’d rather get a donor motor, and rpm based rotor. I’m deciding between this route or just timing and gearing to the moon to take away some of the torque.
I’m not trying to destroy it, I still hook it up to the motor analyzer and graph it, but more in the amp spike rather than at the beginning. |
Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 16164660)
Chances are if you cooked the rotor causing it to lose is magnetic properties, then you likely cooked the stator as well. If there are black burn marks anywhere on the coil, then it's junk, you can also smell it and any signs of "burnt electrical" smell then it's garbage. I've learned to replace my motors every 6 months to a year tops, if it's in decent working condition, I'll bundle everything together into a RTR deal and buy all new equipment in order to be competitive.
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Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 16164660)
Chances are if you cooked the rotor causing it to lose is magnetic properties, then you likely cooked the stator as well. If there are black burn marks anywhere on the coil, then it's junk, you can also smell it and any signs of "burnt electrical" smell then it's garbage. I've learned to replace my motors every 6 months to a year tops, if it's in decent working condition, I'll bundle everything together into a RTR deal and buy all new equipment in order to be competitive.
You should be able to get more than a year out of a motor. Copper doesn't really start to change color until around 200*F. Rotors are not really designed to handle 180*f. Needing to change your motor out after 6 months seams a little excessive, or you are running your motor to it's temp limit. At most, you might need to swap out the rotor and bearings, but I'm sure your stator will be fine. |
Originally Posted by staiguy
(Post 16164730)
A year, maybe two but i average going to the track 3 times a month so not high use. I want to switch to an rpm motor but being kinda cheap about it. I’d rather get a donor motor, and rpm based rotor. I’m deciding between this route or just timing and gearing to the moon to take away some of the torque.
I’m not trying to destroy it, I still hook it up to the motor analyzer and graph it, but more in the amp spike rather than at the beginning. As long as you're not letting our temp reach above 160*f, your stator should be fine. I would just slap a different rotor in it. Is this motor the Fantom Helix V1? |
Originally Posted by OffRoadJunkie
(Post 16164810)
You should be able to get more than a year out of a motor. Copper doesn't really start to change color until around 200*F. Rotors are not really designed to handle 180*f. Needing to change your motor out after 6 months seams a little excessive, or you are running your motor to it's temp limit. At most, you might need to swap out the rotor and bearings, but I'm sure your stator will be fine.
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 16164817)
It's not the copper discolouring, it's the enamel coating.
The enamel coating can handle more heat than the copper. Doesn't it handle over 250*F? That's why I didn't bring up the enamel. There would be many more issues if the motor reached over 250*F. |
Originally Posted by OffRoadJunkie
(Post 16164881)
The enamel coating can handle more heat than the copper. Doesn't it handle over 250*F? That's why I didn't bring up the enamel. There would be many more issues if the motor reached over 250*F.
If the stator wire is going black, that's the enamel discolouring, not the copper. Copper can handle way higher temperatures. The rating is generally what the insulation can handle. As for the motor reaching 250F, don't forget that the motor isn't at a uniform temperature. The windings can be hotter than the can or the temperature sensor on the sensor board. |
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