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Cook the stator.
I'm only worried about the rotor losing strength. It's extremely hard to roast the stator open or shorted. In which case, buy a new motor. |
Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 16164894)
Depends on the enamel type used. Hobbywing recently changed to a high temperature enamel that can do 220C, but there are types that fail around 105C (220F). I'm not sure what the typical rating is for most motors on the market right now.
If the stator wire is going black, that's the enamel discolouring, not the copper. Copper can handle way higher temperatures. The rating is generally what the insulation can handle. As for the motor reaching 250F, don't forget that the motor isn't at a uniform temperature. The windings can be hotter than the can or the temperature sensor on the sensor board. So, let me ask this question. The purpose of the enamel is to protect the winding from shorting out on each other. So, discoloration, of the enamel, should not affect the resistance and/or performance of the motor. Only deterioration, of the enamel, will affect the performance, but at that point, the moto will be shorted and not work. Is this accurate? |
Originally Posted by OffRoadJunkie
(Post 16165009)
I'm not a motor engineer. I just like to run their numbers.
So, let me ask this question. The purpose of the enamel is to protect the winding from shorting out on each other. So, discoloration, of the enamel, should not affect the resistance and/or performance of the motor. Only deterioration, of the enamel, will affect the performance, but at that point, the moto will be shorted and not work. Is this accurate? |
Corrosion of copper is just at the surface, it will take a lot of time (many years) it actually is deeper to the core.
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I no longer race 1/10 stock classes anymore, but the Texas summers are brutal on stock electronics. I had to gear up to be competitive and had 2 fans on my motor to help give it a fighting chance, but I generally saw performance fade between 6 months to a year of racing. Yeah I could probably run my overworked electronics for many years on end, but it would put me at a disadvantage running aged out electronics. I pay a lot of money to play with toy cars so I want to make sure I have the best advantage possible when I race ;)
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And that is why the ETS and many EU countries use the concept of a minimum FDR determined per track. And it can be measured.
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I know we are all aware that heat will weaken the strength of rotor. When the rotor cools off, the magnetic strength comes back, but not all of it.
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At that point you might as well get a mini wine fridge and put your cars in there to cool off. I don’t think those motors ever cooled off in Texas heat :D
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Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 16165235)
I no longer race 1/10 stock classes anymore, but the Texas summers are brutal on stock electronics. I had to gear up to be competitive and had 2 fans on my motor to help give it a fighting chance, but I generally saw performance fade between 6 months to a year of racing. Yeah I could probably run my overworked electronics for many years on end, but it would put me at a disadvantage running aged out electronics. I pay a lot of money to play with toy cars so I want to make sure I have the best advantage possible when I race ;)
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 16165320)
How hot are we talking in Texas? Melbourne where I race gets pretty toasty too, high 30's and occasionally low 40's (or high 90's, low 100's in freedom units) and we make do.
Texas can reach over 110*F. However, as a Texan will tell you, it's a humid heat. Up here, in northern Cali, it will reach over 110 with a dry heat. |
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