choisan

iTrader: (6)

need some advice for a ep (brushless motor) novice.
i have a very good condition of trinity gen 3.5 17.5T, and a faulty 13.5T which it doesnt run when i soldered it with esc. i believed the wires were somewhere shorted previously, might then ruin something.

my question is what possible parts i can transplant to the faulty 13.5T from 17.5T to revive the 13.5T please?
- sensor board of 17.5T
- or any
and what is being a trinity team spec? sensor board or the middle solenoid part? or both?

please kindly advise!

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Is the faulty 13.5T also a Trinity Gen 3.5?

choisan

iTrader: (6)

yes, gen d3.5 both

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I'd expect most of the internal parts like rotor and sensor board to be compatible. If the stator is damaged, you're out of luck.

choisan

iTrader: (6)

i ended up swapping the 13.5t stator (middle body) to the almost new 17.'s front, rotor and end portion, cos i dont run any 17.5.
but what is meaning of the team spec certified 5% for? stator or censor board?

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

The difference between most 13.5 and 17.5 motors is the stator. Everything else is usually the same.

A 5% motor means that motor's specs meet the top 5% of the overall motor specs for that model. However, it's a total cash grab. I consider it as being a scam. The biggest difference, between a certified motor and a spec motor, is the rotor. They will purposely not magnetize a rotor, in spec motor, to not be as strong as a certified rotor. To magnetize something is just adding a charge to it. They will also add ceramic bearings and titanium screws. These additions don't really add any benefits.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I've measured rotors between a bog standard and certified before, and the standard ones are pretty close and in some cases a bit stronger. There's just less quality control with a standard one, they're not intentionally slower.

Ceramic bearings can make a noticeable difference.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

Like giga said they dont purposely make worse rotors or worse stators. They make hundreds or thousands at a time, and there will be variences between parts. And no everything changes, stator resistance, rotor strength and symmytry, sensor alignment, it all adds up. A good motor tuner can bolt all these parts together and make a slight improvement, but a great motor tuner will re align the sensor so it reads equally on all 3 sides.

The only thing they do production wise is always try for stronger rotors to keep improving.

Thats the point of the top end motors, its hand picked and tweaked motors. They are 1-5% or more better, depending on how good the average motor you had before was. And how well you know how it felt before the tweaks.

Trinity motors I would say aren't worth the crazy expense because they make so many the quality is all over the place, and I've seen plenty of them fry with people trying to push them. But most others usually are worth it, IF you are a good driver and competitive at the top of your class. Most people I'd say its not worth it for the top motors, but if you go for them thats on you.

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

I should have been more specific than putting out a generality. I was mostly speaking about the Trinity motors. That's usually the first brand that pops up when someone talks about a certified 5% motor. I have tested quite a few of them, and the spec rotors were always much lower than the 5% motors. I tested them with ceramic bearings, titanium screws, and shimming. Each test was done individually to see what the differences were. The only noticeable difference was with the shimming. After that, the spec motor symmetry and sensor alignments were pretty close to the 5% motors.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I've not measured Trinity but I have measured Exalt (Trinity guys who sold up then immediately started a new company).
The bronze rotor I tested was stronger than the gold.

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

Exalt is a brand I would like to run tests on.