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I’ll say +1 for r1 wurks. Been happy with my 6400 and 5000mah. One guy at the track reminded me to check battery weight. If your already running a heavy buggy, a lower capacity battery can save weight. In my situation I need to add weight so I get away with the heavier 6400. With that big battery it’s nice to hardly feel any voltage sag, or noticeable power loss, but then again I’m not the best or pushing abilities more then my competition. Power isn’t everything. Some guys at the track, me included, started “reverse cheating” by running 21.5 in 17.5 class. :sweat:
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And maybe a dumb question but how do you charge to 4.35 volts for the 7.6v batteries?
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072111)
And maybe a dumb question but how do you charge to 4.35 volts for the 7.6v batteries?
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Originally Posted by Vertebreaker
(Post 16072080)
Oh and does anybody know why SMC doesn't have hardcase car batteries anymore?
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072111)
And maybe a dumb question but how do you charge to 4.35 volts for the 7.6v batteries?
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I definitely should have done more research when I bought my charger. I checked and was sure that it said lihv capable but apparently it’s not. Guess that’s a whole new discussion on what charger to buy 🤦♂️
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072148)
I definitely should have done more research when I bought my charger. I checked and was sure that it said lihv capable but apparently it’s not. Guess that’s a whole new discussion on what charger to buy 🤦♂️
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072148)
I definitely should have done more research when I bought my charger. I checked and was sure that it said lihv capable but apparently it’s not. Guess that’s a whole new discussion on what charger to buy 🤦♂️
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Originally Posted by Vertebreaker
(Post 16072080)
Oh and does anybody know why SMC doesn't have hardcase car batteries anymore?
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072111)
And maybe a dumb question but how do you charge to 4.35 volts for the 7.6v batteries?
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I currently just have the Hitek X1 dual charger. The track I race at doesn’t have any regulations on the battery but even if they did I think still want to invest in a better charging setup and one that can handle lihv, possibly an iCharger DX6 DX8 or something like that. My 2 sons race and we just got a short course truck to race in the modified class.
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I dont think theres a person who regrets buying an icharger. One thing to remember is you will need an external power supply. Honestly, most are just server power supplies "hacked" into being able giving out their full power. Power supplies dont have to be expensive. If your only doing 2s 12v power supply is more than enough. I went with an amazon cheap 12v power supply thats rated for 30amps. Im sure theres losses that dont let me actually get that high but i never had the need to go that high. Also if you're charging two at a time your power is basically "halfed".
power supply |
Thanks for the advice! That makes up my mind to get an iCharger, not that anyone needed to twist my arm or anything. I also need to learn more about how to properly discharge and store my lipos especially with the higher price that goes along with the higher end lipos that I plan to purchase.
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Originally Posted by Jblack45
(Post 16072381)
I currently just have the Hitek X1 dual charger. The track I race at doesn’t have any regulations on the battery but even if they did I think still want to invest in a better charging setup and one that can handle lihv, possibly an iCharger DX6 DX8 or something like that. My 2 sons race and we just got a short course truck to race in the modified class.
Indeed no LiHV or an option to set 4.35v per cell. Problem is that Hitec has many X1 models so probably you did read the specs of a different X1 charger. |
That’s the one
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