Unique Issue with HobbyWing Max10 SCT 120A - Not the same as all the other issues
#1

I have a truggy bought only 3 months ago with a HobbyWing WP MAX10 SCT RTR 120A. Lightly used, not in dirt or water without any problems for the first 3 months.
An issue occurred the other day. I took it out and drove it for 1 minute about 200 meters then the following issue occurred:
Every time the throttle is pressed the car accelerates for 1-2 seconds then auto-brakes with 3 green flashes with 3 beeps and then afterwards flashes red continuously while the throttle is still pressed (no beeping). When the throttle is placed in reverse, the motor doesn't engage, only the 3 green flashes with 3 beeps and then red continuous flashing (no beeping). It seems that there is some protection kicking-in - green flashes are typically overheating - but the car has not been used and is cool everytime I have tried to troubleshoot.
I have posted a video on Youtube.
This issue occurs with or without a motor. I have done the following to troubleshoot:
-Have used different 3s lipo batteries.
-Tried multiple Rx and Tx's and it is not a receiver or transmitter issue.
-Have recalibrated the throttle each time the Rx/Tx were replaced.
-Made sure that the throttle was dial was on 100% during recalibration (tried in both normal and reverse modes)
-Have reset all the ESC programming to default.
-Have verified all the ESC settings and tried different options.
-Have unplugged all unnecessary cables from the Rx.
-Have reseated all the motor and ESC cables to make sure they connect.
-Have tried another motor and same issue occurs.
-The transmitters have fresh batteries.
-Haven't run the car through water.
-No dirt lodged in the ESC fan or heatsink.
-The ESC is not overheating as this happens when the car is cool.
-The fan on the ESC runs fine. Final point.
-The steering works fine.
Based on all the testing and permutations, this is definitely a problem with the ESC and since it is not so old I guess this is some kind of configuration corruption in the firmware. Hobbywing won't entertain this issue as it is not directly from them and without their specific branding. I know there must be a solution for this as it is almost working....
An issue occurred the other day. I took it out and drove it for 1 minute about 200 meters then the following issue occurred:
Every time the throttle is pressed the car accelerates for 1-2 seconds then auto-brakes with 3 green flashes with 3 beeps and then afterwards flashes red continuously while the throttle is still pressed (no beeping). When the throttle is placed in reverse, the motor doesn't engage, only the 3 green flashes with 3 beeps and then red continuous flashing (no beeping). It seems that there is some protection kicking-in - green flashes are typically overheating - but the car has not been used and is cool everytime I have tried to troubleshoot.
I have posted a video on Youtube.
This issue occurs with or without a motor. I have done the following to troubleshoot:
-Have used different 3s lipo batteries.
-Tried multiple Rx and Tx's and it is not a receiver or transmitter issue.
-Have recalibrated the throttle each time the Rx/Tx were replaced.
-Made sure that the throttle was dial was on 100% during recalibration (tried in both normal and reverse modes)
-Have reset all the ESC programming to default.
-Have verified all the ESC settings and tried different options.
-Have unplugged all unnecessary cables from the Rx.
-Have reseated all the motor and ESC cables to make sure they connect.
-Have tried another motor and same issue occurs.
-The transmitters have fresh batteries.
-Haven't run the car through water.
-No dirt lodged in the ESC fan or heatsink.
-The ESC is not overheating as this happens when the car is cool.
-The fan on the ESC runs fine. Final point.
-The steering works fine.
Based on all the testing and permutations, this is definitely a problem with the ESC and since it is not so old I guess this is some kind of configuration corruption in the firmware. Hobbywing won't entertain this issue as it is not directly from them and without their specific branding. I know there must be a solution for this as it is almost working....
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)

I have a truggy bought only 3 months ago with a HobbyWing WP MAX10 SCT RTR 120A.
Based on all the testing and permutations, this is definitely a problem with the ESC and since it is not so old I guess this is some kind of configuration corruption in the firmware. Hobbywing won't entertain this issue as it is not directly from them and without their specific branding. I know there must be a solution for this as it is almost working....
Based on all the testing and permutations, this is definitely a problem with the ESC and since it is not so old I guess this is some kind of configuration corruption in the firmware. Hobbywing won't entertain this issue as it is not directly from them and without their specific branding. I know there must be a solution for this as it is almost working....
I'm confused by the part in bold above, it almost appears as if you have a knock off? Is it not a valid Hobby Wing ESC? Because based on your testing, this ESC needs to go back to the manufacturer for service.
#3

The "WP (Model Name) RTR" models are, as the name suggests, bundled specials for other manufacturers to slap their sticker on and maybe throw in some special firmware. Here's a redcat 60A model for example:
Chances are the company to contact is the one who made the rest of the vehicle.
Chances are the company to contact is the one who made the rest of the vehicle.
#4

Did you check to see of motor thermal protection was disabled? Several of us have had issues with this feature on Hobbywing ESC as it's either not implemented on some motors or implemented differently.
Have you checked the LVC cut off setting and number of Lipo cell settings? Hobbywing recommends setting the lipo cell count to the exact number as opposed to auto if you're always using a 3S battery. Auto is the default.
When you turn on the ESC how many beeps do you get? You should get 3 = 3S battery.
Have you checked the LVC cut off setting and number of Lipo cell settings? Hobbywing recommends setting the lipo cell count to the exact number as opposed to auto if you're always using a 3S battery. Auto is the default.
When you turn on the ESC how many beeps do you get? You should get 3 = 3S battery.
#5

Hi, As Nineball mentions below, these are Hobbywing ESC's packaged/relabeled for RC car vendors. Thanks for your thoughts
#6

I am using a 3s and when it's switched on, I get the 3 beeps indicating 3s.
Just tried the following on recommendations:
-Changed the LVC to Disabled, then tried Low (Default is medium)
-Changed the ESC Thermal Protection to High
-Disabled the Motor Thermal Protection (Default was 2 beeps)
-Changed the LiPo Cells from Auto to 3 cell
Unfortunately none of the above works. Appreciate the tips though.
I am sure there is a combination to get this working again.
Just tried the following on recommendations:
-Changed the LVC to Disabled, then tried Low (Default is medium)
-Changed the ESC Thermal Protection to High
-Disabled the Motor Thermal Protection (Default was 2 beeps)
-Changed the LiPo Cells from Auto to 3 cell
Unfortunately none of the above works. Appreciate the tips though.
I am sure there is a combination to get this working again.
#7

The "WP (Model Name) RTR" models are, as the name suggests, bundled specials for other manufacturers to slap their sticker on and maybe throw in some special firmware. Here's a redcat 60A model for example:
Chances are the company to contact is the one who made the rest of the vehicle.
Chances are the company to contact is the one who made the rest of the vehicle.
I have to accept my fate that I am to rely on the community for assistance and/or buy a new ESC - big shame as this is a config debug issue. Need to be able to flash the EPROM or something to that effect.
Will not buy VKAR and now invest in Traxxas or Arrma.
#9

What type of connector are you using between the battery and the ESC? Does it make firm and solid contact, or is it easy to pull out? Check that the connectors are not dirty or loose, you may be able to use a small screwdriver to spread the connector slightly larger to make better contact if you're using bullets or a connector that uses bullets internally like an XT60.
#10

If you get the USB connector, you might be able to flash the stock Hobbywing firmware to it. In the past I was able to do this with some knock offs that came with old firmware. But I don't know if today Hobbywing has protections with their USB Link software to not recognize rebranded ESCs.
#11

What type of connector are you using between the battery and the ESC? Does it make firm and solid contact, or is it easy to pull out? Check that the connectors are not dirty or loose, you may be able to use a small screwdriver to spread the connector slightly larger to make better contact if you're using bullets or a connector that uses bullets internally like an XT60.
#12

If you get the USB connector, you might be able to flash the stock Hobbywing firmware to it. In the past I was able to do this with some knock offs that came with old firmware. But I don't know if today Hobbywing has protections with their USB Link software to not recognize rebranded ESCs.