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ESC Problem...Never seen this!
I bought a used Castle Mamba Monster X Esc. When I plug it in all I get is two short beeps and one long beep. I see this is an RX/TX issue.
So I tried swapping in a different RX....same deal. I then tried another RX, one that is currently mounted in my savage truck. Same deal. Now the RX in the savage (that I was using to test) doesn't work with the motor/TX that I was using before testing. Any ideas what is going on here? Is this ESC just frying all my RXs?! The wires from ESC --> RX were hot to the touch. Thank you! |
Originally Posted by Weeznur32
(Post 15624849)
Any ideas what is going on here? Is this ESC just frying all my RXs?!
The wires from ESC --> RX were hot to the touch. Definitely don’t plug this in to any more receivers. Double check there are no wires or strands of wires bridging across any of the terminals at the esc or motor. Extra check that the polarity of the wires matches the polarity of your battery (especially if there is a connector on there!). Maybe if you find something obviously wrong and fix it then you could try a working receiver, but i would suggest moving on to a new (unused) esc and receivers. |
When changing ESC always check binding of TX & RX. Then do the installation of configure of ESC, ESC manual setting the neutral, full throttle and Braking position You do that the RX & ESC will read each other.
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Thanks for posting. The issue I am having: the ESC does not power the RX. So I cannot confirm it is binded. However, I have tried multiple Tx/Rx combos, that were working perfectly prior to testing on new ESC/Motor. Any ideas?
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Thank you for your reply. I am going to start from the beginning again. I was just shocked that the wires to the Rx were getting warm... alarming to say the least.
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I once had a brand new ESC (generic brand) that killed both my servo and my Rx, both devices each had a puff of smoke the instant I flipped the switch... turns out the BEC was faulty, it was sending the full 4S right into the Rx!
https://live.staticflickr.com/8185/8...25f2625d_b.jpg I bought the ESC through HobbyKing and they warranted the ESC and Rx but did not cover the expense for the servo which I bought from Savox... which created a whole other debacle to where I have stopped buying electronics from HobbyKing and never bought another Savox product since :( |
Are you using HPI TX &RX? Or a different manufacture. If upgrade TX&RX I need to know. Does your steering initialize when you turn on ESC? If not, TX & RX is not bonded together.
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Have you tried reversing the throttle in the transmitter? I am not familiar with this esc, but with their old mmp & a futaba trans. you have to reverse the throttle throw or it will not arm.
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Unplug esc and get a voltmeter and see if esc is putting out a bec voltage...
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Originally Posted by the rc guy
(Post 15625306)
Unplug esc and get a voltmeter and see if esc is putting out a bec voltage...
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Originally Posted by Geezatec
(Post 15625253)
Are you using HPI TX &RX? Or a different manufacture. If upgrade TX&RX I need to know. Does your steering initialize when you turn on ESC? If not, TX & RX is not bonded together.
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Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 15625052)
I once had a brand new ESC (generic brand) that killed both my servo and my Rx, both devices each had a puff of smoke the instant I flipped the switch... turns out the BEC was faulty, it was sending the full 4S right into the Rx!
https://live.staticflickr.com/8185/8...25f2625d_b.jpg I bought the ESC through HobbyKing and they warranted the ESC and Rx but did not cover the expense for the servo which I bought from Savox... which created a whole other debacle to where I have stopped buying electronics from HobbyKing and never bought another Savox product since :( in the pic are testing the ESC with the digital multi meter? Are there ways I can do that to decipher what exactly is the issue? Thanks! |
Billdelong's picture would confirm a situation like what you first thought, the ESC is frying receivers by delivering an unrestricted 16.56V from the battery, instead of reducing it to 6V-8.4V as it would if operating normally. This function is known as a 'battery eliminator circuit' because it allows the steering servo and electronics to function from the main battery power, rather from an addition 'receiver pack' battery.
So options could include buying and adding in an external BEC to regulate the voltage. You would need to remove the one of the power connections from the plug coming out of the ESC for this to work. You could do a similar thing by removing a power connection from the ESC plug and adding in a receiver pack to power the receiver and servo that way. If the ESC came with any kind of program card or options to program using the esc buttons, you could look for a setting to adjust the BEC voltage... but it would be unusual for a functioning car ESC to put out such a high voltage to the receiver no matter the setting. You could still try messaging the seller about the problem, and even ebay/paypal dispute resolution if the item was not described as faulty in the ad. Given the problems you have already had, buy another ESC and check the output with a multimeter first! |
Originally Posted by Weeznur32
(Post 15625497)
in the pic are testing the ESC with the digital multi meter? Are there ways I can do that to decipher what exactly is the issue?
Thanks! Mushroomed gave some good suggestions to bypass the BEC, another option is to draw power from the #2 cell on your balance port to get unfiltered 8.4V with a fresh charge: How to wire HV Servo from 2S LiPo You can use this bypass to the Ch2 port on the Rx, I am showing a 2S-JST plug in the pic, but the same can be done with a 4S-JST, use a voltmeter to double check the voltage is 8.4V beforehand, assuming your Rx is rated for HV @ 8.4V: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8797/1...b4f1c60e_c.jpg If your Rx can only handle 6V, then I would get a UBEC like this instead: https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-UBEC-5V-...sAAOSwG8tcjzni |
Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 15625686)
Notice the servo wire in my left hand on the pic, I am pressing the leads from the voltmeter onto the servo connector that feeds voltage from the BEC which should be around 6.0V for most BEC's on the market.
Mushroomed gave some good suggestions to bypass the BEC, another option is to draw power from the #2 cell on your balance port to get unfiltered 8.4V with a fresh charge: How to wire HV Servo from 2S LiPo You can use this bypass to the Ch2 port on the Rx, I am showing a 2S-JST plug in the pic, but the same can be done with a 4S-JST, use a voltmeter to double check the voltage is 8.4V beforehand, assuming your Rx is rated for HV @ 8.4V: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8797/1...b4f1c60e_c.jpg If your Rx can only handle 6V, then I would get a UBEC like this instead: https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-UBEC-5V-...sAAOSwG8tcjzni I spoke with Castle Creations and they suggested doing exactly what you said (testing brown (-) and red (+) Rx lead wires). Interestingly, I didn't pick up any voltage. Probably why ESC isn't powering my RX. So, I think we can safely assume that the BEC is fried. Can you please help me understand how to bypass the BEC/add external BEC in layman's terms? Would be awesome if I can send vids of what exactly is happening? Much appreciated! |
If you look at my picture, notice that the red wire was removed from the servo connector, this is how you remove the wire:
Then simply use a pin and insert it into the exposed female red wire you just removed, and plug that wire into the #2 cell of your balance port on the 4S battery... use your voltmeter to check that the #2 cell reads 8.4V, that is the hole you want to plug the red wire into, this will bypass the BEC. Only do this if your Rx is rated to handle 8.4V otherwise you'll need to get a UBEC that I linked above. |
What manufacture of radio system are you using?
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Originally Posted by billdelong
(Post 15626210)
If you look at my picture, notice that the red wire was removed from the servo connector, this is how you remove the wire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ri8i5ITI8o Then simply use a pin and insert it into the exposed female red wire you just removed, and plug that wire into the #2 cell of your balance port on the 4S battery... use your voltmeter to check that the #2 cell reads 8.4V, that is the hole you want to plug the red wire into, this will bypass the BEC. Only do this if your Rx is rated to handle 8.4V otherwise you'll need to get a UBEC that I linked above. |
Originally Posted by Geezatec
(Post 15626253)
What manufacture of radio system are you using?
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Solved. Thank you all for your input. I learned a lot through this process (now running external BECs on most of my cars). I'm embarrassed to say that the receiver harness on the ESC was transposed....the whole time. So basically I was frying Rxs because the idiot that sold me the ESC had the harness plugged in backward the whole time.
HUGE props to Castle for helping me figure this issue out...even when I bought it used. That's customer service! |
Originally Posted by Weeznur32
(Post 15628145)
... the idiot that sold me the ESC had the harness plugged in backward the whole time....
Next time, post a pic of your wiring to help others get more clues in helping solve the problem... never did get an answer from you on the voltage coming from your BEC, that would've shown the polarity was reversed at that point as well :( |
Originally Posted by Weeznur32
(Post 15628145)
Solved. Thank you all for your input. I learned a lot through this process (now running external BECs on most of my cars). I'm embarrassed to say that the receiver harness on the ESC was transposed....the whole time. So basically I was frying Rxs because the idiot that sold me the ESC had the harness plugged in backward the whole time.
HUGE props to Castle for helping me figure this issue out...even when I bought it used. That's customer service! In engineering, we spent a while looking at that wire harness trying to make it as safe as possible just in case it was plugged in backwards. That's why some of the wires cross each other before going into the plug. |
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